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    Results 1 to 8 of 8
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Cassopolis, Mi
      Posts
      103

      GXSMAX 1970 Buick GSX 3 link rear?

      I am in the process of installing a 3 link rear clip and was wondering if anyone has used Art Morrison or has any suggestion? My goal is to gain clearance to run 315-20s or wider. Any pics of rear clip installs would be helpful. I'm running 245-19s front with AFX spindles 14" Baer 6P brakes, scandc uppers and lowers with varishocks. The front end is mocked up waiting on Rushforth Whiplash wheels to set stance. Any help will be appreciated.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by clu269 View Post
      I am in the process of installing a 3 link rear clip and was wondering if anyone has used Art Morrison or has any suggestion? My goal is to gain clearance to run 315-20s or wider. Any pics of rear clip installs would be helpful. I'm running 245-19s front with AFX spindles 14" Baer 6P brakes, scandc uppers and lowers with varishocks. The front end is mocked up waiting on Rushforth Whiplash wheels to set stance. Any help will be appreciated.
      Clu,
      Just curious are you doing this to get the 3 link or just to fit the 315s?

      If it is just to fit 315s, I think you should be able to run 315s with minor mods to the wheel wells of a 68-72 A body. Don't know about the Buicks specifically but I put 305s in my 68 GTO with very minor wheel well mods. Getting creative with the wheel lip before paint should allow a 315. Wider than that, you are right and need to narrow the frame (or widen the body ).

      If it is to get the adjustability of a 3 link,
      Are you planning on putting a cage in the car?
      Watts link or Panhard rod?
      Packaging is going to get interesting if you want to keep a back seat, the third link looks like it would eat up the center of the back seat and run some big pipes to exit behind the rear tires.

      I am not trying to discourage you just some things to consider. I have thought about this myself and was looking to keep the factory rails.

      Jon
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Cassopolis, Mi
      Posts
      103
      Jon,
      I am looking for the adjust ability for auto cross. Also I might want to go with 335s. I believe that the Art Morrison 3 link uses a watts link track locator. This should be compact enough to not be so intrusive. I would hope to maintain the rear seat. But my plan is to have the best handling Buick possible while maintaining the stock frame although modified. How good can an A body handle with stock converging 4 link and how much work has to be done to stiffen the rear?
      Thanks for our input.
      Clu



    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by clu269 View Post
      Jon,
      I am looking for the adjust ability for auto cross. Also I might want to go with 335s. I believe that the Art Morrison 3 link uses a watts link track locator. This should be compact enough to not be so intrusive. I would hope to maintain the rear seat. But my plan is to have the best handling Buick possible while maintaining the stock frame although modified. How good can an A body handle with stock converging 4 link and how much work has to be done to stiffen the rear?
      Thanks for our input.
      Clu
      Clu,
      Check out my build thread, I have a similar front suspension to what you are running. Out back I have Currie upper and lower arms with rubber bushings on top of the diff.

      The problem with this set up is it raises the roll center since my car is lowered. It moves vertically and gives a little loose feeling on the rear when the rear suspension moves in cornering (like when you hit a bump). To counter this I plan to run a watts link, hence the rubber upper bushings to allow the watts to dominate the roll center. This should plant the rear and improve the handling even more.

      The watts will require a new modified gas tank to fit and I will likely have to reroute my exhaust. So I am waiting a bit to do this due to budget and I want to drive my car in between mods. If this mod does not get me where I want to go I will look more into going with the 3-link, not to control the roll center but to set the anti squat if I can't plant the power.

      If you are going with the 3-link and want to run it low look into modifying the frame to give you more bump travel as well when you clearance it for the larger tires.

      These cars seem to like to push so you also want to run the widest front tires you can to balance out the big rears.

      Jon
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Indiana
      Posts
      1,371
      You may want to consider a simple bolt-on suspension that has proven VERY effective.

      http://www.ridetech.com/more/wp-cont...er-article.pdf

      I have put THOUSANDS of miles on this car from coast to coast. It drive at least as good as my Z06 Corvette...and rides much better as well.

      I also have a 70 GSX. It is slightly slower because of an extra 400lb. It is truly my favorite car.
      http://ridetechgarage.com/more/1970-buick-gsx/

      Good luck with your build!
      Bret Voelkel
      Director of Innovation Fox Powered Vehicles Group
      Founder/ Former Owner
      RideTech/Air Ride Technologies, Inc.

      How do you spell Impossible?

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      3 link can be packaged to use the rear seat but youd have to do the home works and build it yourself. You said you wanted to keep your stock frame but the morrison 3 link use a new weldin clip. Its a good system but dont think it fits your goals. See what I had to do to use a rear seat with a 3 link
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Hmm.. Prolly not what you are going for but... The adjustability issue is why I went with my set-up. An art morrison four link rear frame. It is strong and I fully welded it into the body of the car.

      Not saying thats the route to go but look at their four bar rear clips. They are a lot lower towards the front. May not eat into the rear seat area as much. And Im not saying run the four bar, maybe an adaptation of it and any other offerings from them.

      Here is an example of a art morrison rear clip with air ride tech and a home grown watts link. Just to give some ideas.
      https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=55420



      The thing is, if you have a saw and a welder you can piece together a few variables. Its all fun. Gimme a saw and a welder and anything can happen.. JR

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Cassopolis, Mi
      Posts
      103
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX View Post
      3 link can be packaged to use the rear seat but youd have to do the home works and build it yourself. You said you wanted to keep your stock frame but the morrison 3 link use a new weldin clip. Its a good system but dont think it fits your goals. See what I had to do to use a rear seat with a 3 link
      My goal with using the stock frame is to retain the front transition and mounts for the core support. I will be adding DOM tube supports over the top of the UCA and tying them together with a removable DOM link similar to the Schwartz chassis setup. The center section is boxed and stiffened using DOM tubing and the transition to the rear clip will have a 2" x 4" x 10ga tube with 3" exhaust penetrations. Since the frame will be modified to this extent I thought that going with a 3 link might help the car track and handle better than the stock converging 4 link. I know that I can fit 315s in the rear with some modification to the wheel lips and or perhaps cutting and widening the rear 1.5" per side. I not convinced that by doing this I can achieve the handling that I am shotting for with the stock style suspension.




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