67 Brake lines ?

[mjoc1]

I need to find a proportioning valve and the brakes line to the master cylinder for a 1967 buick GS 400 I also need to figure out a away to install an additional adjustable proportioning valve up by the master cylinder. I have tried OPG, and Year One and they don't list the affore mentioned lines. I need help I want to get this car driveable again.

Mike

[b-man]

Here are some links to a couple of posts in my '64 Tempest build thread that might be helpful to you:

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...&postcount=273

https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...&postcount=276

It's not all that difficult to make up the lines you need yourself, the biggest investment in tools needed is a $50 tube flaring kit that will do double flares on steel brake line.

[mjoc1]

Thanxs for the info. I have a flair kit not a great one, but it works. The problem I am having is finding the actually the fitting themselve to attact to the hoses. I have check 9 auto parts store today and four yesterday and thay all have the same fittings but none of the ones I need.

Mike

[b-man]

The master cylinder and combo valve that I used (2nd-gen F-body) have different sized threads on the tube fitting nuts than you would normally find in an auto parts store. The two fitting nuts on the master and one of the two on the top of the combo valve were 'special' sized factory nuts and had to be reused.

If necessary take a trip to you local self-serve wrecking yard and score the brake line fitting nuts and combo valve you need.

The flaring tools I have are made by Blue Point (Snap-On) and hold the tubing nice and snug so it doesn't slip when you're making up the flare.

[NOT A TA]

Thanxs for the info. I have a flair kit not a great one, but it works. The problem I am having is finding the actually the fitting themselve to attact to the hoses. I have check 9 auto parts store today and four yesterday and thay all have the same fittings but none of the ones I need.

Mike

You might also be able to purchase short sections of straight tubing that have the fittings you need already attached. I had to do that once to get the correct fittings for an application. The sections are cheap enough so it was worth buying the tubing just to get the fittings.

Why do you want to use 2 proportioning valves?

[Apogee]

You should never run more than one proportioning valve inline in any application. That's rule number one when it comes to proportioning valves.

Tobin
KORE3

[D Impala95]

You should never run more than one proportioning valve inline in any application. That's rule number one when it comes to proportioning valves.

Tobin
KORE3

I agree plus there is only a need or one proportioning valve. The one controls the pressure to the front brakes. So you either increase or lessen pressure depending on how your car is handling/mishandling.

[Apogee]

Rule #2: Always run full pressure to the front brakes. You should only ever have a need to run a proportioning valve, adjustable or fixed, in the rear brake circuit. Maybe I misunderstood you D Impala95, but you don't want to "control" anything with respect to the pressure going to the front calipers. That should be full line pressure all the time, no exceptions.

Tobin
KORE3

[gort69]

Here is how I plumbed my rear brake (and ONLY!!) adjustable prop valve by the MC.

If your Buick has the distribution block below the MC with the brake warning switch, SSBC has come out with a replacement block that includes the switch and an adjustable prop valve to the rear line. Scroll down to page 43 of the catalog in the link below.

http://www.ssbrakes.com/content/imag..._web_small.pdf

[mjoc1]

My proportioning valve is currently the stock drum/drum unit attached to the frame down by the cast iron exhaust manifold by the collector. I installed a second adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line below the master cylinder.

Mike