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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Virginia
      Posts
      48

      DSE wheels tubs in a nova rubbing the tire??

      Talked with DSE and resolved the problem.





      here is a picture of the DSE wheel tub installed so you wont think i put it in wrong





    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      567
      The problem is DSE says only a 315 will safely fit and your trying to put a 325 under it, so Id say you should expect some additional mods. Nice project!!
      Nathan Shaw
      71 Nova, 1000+whp 5.3, 8 second autoXer.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Now I know details but still stick with this>>> Again another post blaming a part when its clearly something else causing the problem..
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      Well since Badbrad editted his entire post and came back with silly slams to make use look like idiots I'll remove my post as well
      Last edited by 79T/Aman; 09-29-2009 at 04:33 AM. Reason: to protect the innocents
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Can you slice it and add a strip back in?
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Virginia
      Posts
      48
      the problem is a combo of things that they dont tell you, like my 6" ride height for one and i am using a 20" wheel with a 315 and not a 17" wheel with a 315. so next time you want to put your 2 cents in know your facts first.
      LOWBUCKS you shouldnt be allowed to post on here if your that stupid. build a car and not a post.
      JOHN WRIGHT you are the only one i will respond to sensibly, width is not my problem, the 17X11 fits great clearance on both sides, the rearend has no travel room to go up with out hitting the frame due to the 6" ride height, i need a 4" C notch in the frame, and the diameter of the tire is what is hitting the wheel tub where it comes down in the rear at the trunk drop off. The 325/45/17 is the same diameter as a 315/35/20 it is 28" tall.
      Last edited by parsonsj; 09-23-2009 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Personal attacks aren't tolerated. Consider this a warning.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      1,158
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree forums are often filled with self proclaimed experts, but calling them names will do nothing more than reduce everyone elses efforts to help you. The funny thing about the internet is that you have no idea how important that bridge you just burned may be.

      With that out of the way... The issue is more of your desired ride height than it is product, correct? John's point could still be valid. You'll notice the wheel tubs aren't an abrupt transition from horizontal to vertical, it's a gentle transition. By widening the tub more, at it's peak, allows the tire corners (where I would imagine you're having the rubbing occur) more space when the suspension cycles. Depending on how much rubbing is occurring you may be able to resolve it with a little heat or a BFH.

      What did DSE have to say about the issue? How much room do you have for the suspension to cycle at that height? I'm looking at having my '68 Camaros rockers 6.5 to 7" off the ground with 3.5" of bump travel. To accomplish this, I do have to add a small notch to insure that the frame doesn't get in the way. I couldn't imagine the need for a full 4" of vertical height for a notch. When you say 4", do you mean the diameter of round tube used for the notch?

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      Brad,

      I edited your post, and removed the school yard name calling.

      Listen to Rhino: he's got some good suggestions for you.

      jp
      ​John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Build a car.... And not a post.. Nice wish I saw your original post obviously you havent been around long. Still would like to know how its DSEs fault that you are using their product in a way its not designed. Ill send you a straight edge you sure could use it.
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badbrad900rr View Post
      Talked with DSE and resolved the problem.
      Glad they were able to work with you, sounds like stepped up and helped you out...kudos to DSE for helping with the resolution.

      So....did you end up with a larger tub to work with the larger rims/tires and the added body/chassis drop?
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Virginia
      Posts
      48
      I am going to modify the existing tub, wont be a real big deal being it is only hitting at the rear, i have clearance eveywhere else. I never said it was DSE's fault, it is clearly my fault, but no where did it say the car can be no lower than 3" under stock height nor did it say the largest rim diameter wheel and tire was a 315/35/17. The 17 is the major part. I still have a 315, just on a 20. How bout i just come pick that straight edge up.

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Posts
      60
      Quote Originally Posted by LowBuckX View Post
      Build a car.... And not a post.. Nice wish I saw your original post obviously you havent been around long. Still would like to know how its DSEs fault that you are using their product in a way its not designed. Ill send you a straight edge you sure could use it.

      I think the what Brad is getting at is the fact that the offset has no effect on the tire size hence the smarta$$ response he gave.

      I say ban him or send him to time out IMO.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Real tubs would solve the problem



      Just kidding

      The 315/35/20 is a truck tire. So maybe DSE didnt expect anyone would want to stuff a truck tire under their car. And Im not saying its not a good idea, it looks good on your car, actually looks kinda small, the wheel diameter, doesnt look outta place.

      But the 28" dia is pretty large for a car. A stock suspension car. I could fit a 34" tall tire if I needed too. But my suspension is FAR from stock.

      But, it sounds like you are on the road to fixing it, thats cool. JR

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      delete. I didnt read the post correctly. What else is new JR

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Virginia
      Posts
      48
      rhino, DSE told me the largest wheel and tire combo they recommend is a 315/35/17, this has a 25.7" diameter, the wheel tire combo i am running is a 315/35/20, this has a 28.7 diameter. I have clearance everywhere except at the very back of the wheel tub, it hits the tire all way across at the rear. Nothing a hammer or heating will fix, this will have to be cut an moved for the clearance i need.
      As for ride height, my ride height is 7" at the rocker in the rear and 6" at the rocker in the front. Sorry i am late for work, i will finish this up tonight.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      1,158
      Country Flag: United States
      Ahh, I see where your trouble is. Be careful when you're moving the tub backward. I'm pretty sure your Nova is the same configuration as a first gen F-body. The frame rails start "kicking out" about 1/2 the way through the tub. Since we have to cut into this for the tub, the frame rail gets rather thin at the rear. By moving the tub back further, I would imagine you're going to have to make some changes to keep from cutting all the way through the frame, or possibly reinforce the inside of it by welding in additional support.

      Please keep us updated as to what you need to do. I've been planning on using a 26.6" diameter tire in the rear and will have only a slightly higher ride height. I think I may run into a similar issue, but only at full bump of my suspension.

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      Virginia
      Posts
      48
      i am going to cut the stock frame rails out now and make my own with a slightly higher notch over the rearend for travel, i will keep you updated with pictures. The only thing that pissed me off earlier in the this thread was the guy talking about the backspacing? What does backspacing have to do with anything when there is no rearend in the car and you are only mocking up tire size? Oh well, we should start doing some cutting in a couple weeks, I have a 88 mustang coupe that i am going to mini tub next week and it is a lot closer to being drivable than my nova so it will get priority! But i will keep you up to date on things. Thanks for the support.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badbrad900rr View Post
      The only thing that pissed me off earlier in the this thread was the guy talking about the backspacing? What does backspacing have to do with anything when there is no rearend in the car and you are only mocking up tire size?
      Holy crap dude. Still on a rant.

      Hey, I know you have been on this site longer than myself, but I dont care.

      This sub forum General Technical Discussion usually has three types of posts.
      1. asking for help
      2. giving some helpful info
      3. showing some work

      They all have something in common, productivity. Progress.

      A rant or bitch about some guys post is non-productive. It makes any guy that comes along, new member or old NOT want to give some productive input for fear of getting bashed. Thats not cool at all.

      Its not about pointing fingers saying whats his name doesnt know what he is talking about. If you see a post or reply that just doesnt make sense you just ignore it. Unless someone is posting some dangerous ideas. But if its just a simple misunderstanding or a different concept you just drop it. But to drag up someone else's post and bag on it later just doesnt show much but some petty thinking on your end.

      So you might say, well dude, thats what yer doing right now. Nope, Im trying (bite my tongue hard) to be constructive and showing how forum etiquette rolls. JR

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by badbrad900rr View Post
      i am going to cut the stock frame rails out now and make my own with a slightly higher notch over the rearend for travel, i will keep you updated with pictures.
      Now.... For some constructive talk. Yeah!!! Cool. I think you are better off making some new stubs to fit what you need. That way you will get the clearance for the rearend tubes and gain some strength too. Love to see the build pics, those are always good. And, I saw you are tackling the stang project too. Yer plate is full huh. Priorities!! JR

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Posts
      2,413
      Details details. In your first post you did not mention lack of rear end. Your description sounded as if the wheel was rubbing the frame but clear on the face hence my post..... And realy you didnt threaten me did you.. ON the net in a civil forum. Nice
      Nothing says "I built this" better than tool marks and dykem blue..

      Follow my 3 link build. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=61592

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