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09-17-2009 #1
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- Sep 2006
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- Jacksonville, NC
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- 63
Rocker arms nuts keep loosening up
I've got a 350 with scorpion roller rockers. Two of the nuts on the drivers side have loosened up about 4 threads on the stud, twice after readjustment.
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09-17-2009 #2
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- May 2005
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- Fontana, CA
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- 4,960
Poly locks? Or Acorn nuts?
Nick R.
69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?
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09-17-2009 #3
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- Sep 2006
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- Jacksonville, NC
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- 63
Poly locks
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09-17-2009 #4
Registered User
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- Aug 2004
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- Rustburg, Virginia
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- 3,436
Quit revving it so hard....LOL
Red locktite on the poly lock jam nuts1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
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09-17-2009 #5
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- Sep 2006
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- Jacksonville, NC
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- 63
so I should put the locktite just on the allen jam nuts, not the actual 5/8 nut?
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09-17-2009 #6
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- Jan 2005
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- Burleson Tx
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- 268
I have had to flatten the end of the rocker stud to give the locking screw a smooth surface to bite into. With the uneven surface not enough surface area to lock down on. A real easy fix though if they are screw in just remove and hit them on the bench grinder and flatten the top just a touch.
Kenny
09-18-2009 #7
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- Mar 2005
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- Loganville, GA
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- 931
Kenny's right. If the rocker studs are GM, then this is the problem. Either do what Kenny said or buy aftermarket rocker studs like ARP and the problem will go away.
2018 Cruze LT Hatchback
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09-18-2009 #8
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- May 2005
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- Fontana, CA
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Correct. On the allen only.
Originally Posted by Viperlover
Nick R.
69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?
10-28-2009 #9
Starting The Transformation
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Location
- Maysville, KY
- Posts
- 156
Just put a set of polylocks on and you will cure your problem. They are very inexpensive.
Kevin Turner
Maysville, KY
3-69 Camaro's
02 S10 extended cab that's street legal & runs 10's on motor and 9's with spray.
04 GMC Denali Quadsteer truck black with black 22's.
04 GTO LS1 that loves to be sprayed and meet imports on the street.
10-28-2009 #10
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- Dec 2006
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- So Cal
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- 920
No Loctite is needed nor wanted on your polylock adjusting nuts or the allen head locking screw.
The trick to keep them from loosening is to find your adjustment with the polylock nut, then back off the polylock a little and tighten both the allen head locking screw and the polylock adjusting nut at the same time. When it's all tight it should end up in the same position where you first found your proper adjustment point to be.
You need to use a box end wrench on the polylock nut and an allen wrench on the locking screw, then tighten both of them down in the same motion. It can take a few tries to get the adjusting nut where it needs to be.
This effectively locks the allen screw down onto the top of the stud using the polylock nut to trap it in place. Adjusting the polylock nut first and then trying to lock the adjusting nut in place afterwards by tightening down the little allen screw won't work, it will come loose.
As already mentioned by some of the above posters, you definitely need a flat surface for the locking screw to seat on. Remove the screw-in rocker studs from the heads and have them either turned on a lathe to get the tips flat or have the ends ground flat, this really shouldn't be done on a common bench grinder if you want the end flat and true.Bart F.
'64 Tempest - LS3/4L70E - Grandma's Poor-Touring car
'64 GTO - 455 HO/TH400 - Ex-bracket racer, street bruiser'02 WS6 convert - LS1/4L60E - Pure stock, pure pleasure
10-29-2009 #11
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- Apr 2008
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- Newark, OH, / Concord, NC
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B Man is on the money
Dale
10-30-2009 #12
Registered User
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- Aug 2004
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- Rustburg, Virginia
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- 3,436
Quick question..these are screw in studs, right? Press in studs can pull out.
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
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