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08-28-2009 #21
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This all sounds familiar.
When I replaced my front control arms, upper and lower, I did so with a tubular style (like speed tech im guessing?) and I also installed 3" drop springs. I took it up to the rack and the guys could not get it straight for nothing. They had an 1" worth of shims and still no luck.. they said my frame was bent and I knew they were wrong.
The next day I called Marcus at got a set of SPC adj arms and kept my lower tubular arms in place. Took it up a buddy and he was able to dial in .5camber 4.5castor and 1/16 toe.. and that was with the 3" drop springs. It was a whole new car!
Not trying to put down products.. but that's why I like the SPC adjustable arms over the tubular ones. Then again it might not be the arms at all .. it could be the people trying to do the alignment... with their old 'bent frame' excuse.
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08-28-2009 #22
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Actually, you should do the body bushings first. When you replace them you might move the subframe, and if the middle ones are compressed more than the rears the subframe will be slightly nose up, adding caster.
Once you replace the bushings you'll eliminate a couple variables and won't need to align it again like you will if you do them after the first alignment.Jason Scheer
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08-28-2009 #23
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Find yourself a local road race or oval track chassis shop. Race shops rely more heavily on their brains, experience and hand-taken measurements rather than automated equipment intended for Toyota Camrys. They also understand performance alignments.
A race shop will always start by squaring up your chassis since they are used to dealing with cars that get knocked around. Also google "race car alignment".________________
Steve Chryssos
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08-28-2009 #24
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VERY GOOD point Steve.
we see more issues with guys taking their cars to alignment shops that have no idea.
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08-28-2009 #25
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This is absolutely true. I went to a regular "recommended" alignment shop and even with my SPC adjustable control arms and at least 2 hours the dipswitch "couldn't figure it out". I gave them my $80 and went about buying equipment to do my own alignments. I'd rather figure it out on my own than pay some lackey to monkey around with a suspension part he doesn't understand. That was one of the most annoying experiences I've had with this car.
Steve's recommendation is good too. When I didn't have the alignment tools I should have just taken it to a roundy round shop. I'll bet they would have no problem "figuring it out".Jeff K.
69 Camaro SS, 406 SBC, TKO600, 9" w/3.73 tru-trac, Speedtech Arms, AFX Spindles, Lee 670 Box, Baer GT front, C5Z rear. Hyperco Leafs w/ Fays2 Watts Link + Varishocks.
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08-28-2009 #26
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Take a look here...
http://www.nastyz28.com/~Todd80Z28/p.../alignment.htm1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
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08-31-2009 #27
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Bump...how did this alignment turn out?
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
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08-31-2009 #28
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I haven't had a chance to work on it yet. Family stuff got in the way...
Originally Posted by John Wright
GM EFI Tuner
1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold
08-31-2009 #29
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Originally Posted by LSXZ28
May I suggest tying them up and locking them in the closet? That's how i get my free time.....Greg Fast
(yes, the last name is spelled correctly)
1970 Camaro RS Clone
1984 el Camino
1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
(Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)
08-31-2009 #30
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That's your answer to everything today! Originally Posted by Twentyover
Nick R.
69 Camaro - 383, 700R4, 12 bolt 3.55, Hotchkis, Bilstein, Global West, Morris Classic
08 HHR SS - Still Stock for now
Do you still believe in all the things that you stood by before? Are you out there on the front lines, or at home keeping score?
Do you care to be the layer of the bricks that seal your fate? Would you rather be the architect of what we might create?
08-31-2009 #31
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Originally Posted by 6'9"Witha69
When something works, you stick with it....Greg Fast
(yes, the last name is spelled correctly)
1970 Camaro RS Clone
1984 el Camino
1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
(Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)
09-01-2009 #32
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LOL.....I know how that goes. Family comes first. Originally Posted by LSXZ28
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
09-06-2009 #33
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Well, I took a look at it this morning. I am definitely going to replace the body bushings next - it looks like the middle passenger one is smashed more than the others and causing the subframe to be twisted. I think that is part of my problem. It also looks like the bolts are not straight, so I think the subframe is shifting around some.
I still think the springs are too low and are causing most of my camber issues - wish I hadn't tried to save a buck by buying the Summit ones - should have gotten hotchkis or something... I'm sure when I put the aluminum LS1 in it, it will come up some, but that's gonna be awhile...
GM EFI Tuner
1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold
09-20-2009 #34
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My wife and I spent most of the day yesterday putting GW aluminum subframe/body bushings in... what a job! Both driver side cage nuts came loose, so we pulled the inner fender for the middle one, and took out the driver seat and used a holesaw to cut a hole out over the back one. Now all 6 are new.
So that is the last of the suspension/chassis to replace. And still the car seems somewhat lower on the passenger side than the drivers side... really starting to think this thing was wrecked at one point. I'm going to take it soon and try to get it aligned - might take it to a place with a frame machine in case it is twisted...
GM EFI Tuner
1980 Z28 Pro-touring project - sold
2002 Trans Am 9.41 at 143mph on pump gas and drag radials - sold
09-28-2009 #35
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I am interested in purchasing the Speedtech Equipment for my A-Body Chevelle...a good idea copared to Heidt's, Hotchkiss, Global West, DSE?
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