Coilover shock towers

[The Stickman]

I am looking at adding Coilover shocks to the rear of my wagon. The shocks I have are a bit to long for where I want to put them, so it was suggested by someone on here(sorry forget who) that I simply make shock towers for them. It would be nothing to cut into the floor and wled something up as the wife is a welder. The question is what to use to make it. I figure some box tubing to go accross the frame rails but what size and what wall thickness? We would also need some plate to space it up off the frame so what thickness would be good. I figure a plate on either side of the frame rail as my frame is already boxed and then simply notch them to slide the box tubing into and weld it all up with nounts coming off the box tubing for the coilovers. Then just weld sheet metal over it to cover it up. ANy thoughts?

[JRouche]

I am looking at adding Coilover shocks to the rear of my wagon. The shocks I have are a bit to long for where I want to put them, so it was suggested by someone on here(sorry forget who) that I simply make shock towers for them. It would be nothing to cut into the floor and wled something up as the wife is a welder. The question is what to use to make it. I figure some box tubing to go accross the frame rails but what size and what wall thickness? We would also need some plate to space it up off the frame so what thickness would be good. I figure a plate on either side of the frame rail as my frame is already boxed and then simply notch them to slide the box tubing into and weld it all up with nounts coming off the box tubing for the coilovers. Then just weld sheet metal over it to cover it up. ANy thoughts?

First off NEAT!! I had an 1973 olds custom crusier for my first car. It was only 300 bucks and although not the coolest ride for a 16 YO it was WAY better than hoofing it like I had been doing. Had a 455 with a quadrajet, man, hit the go pedal and it would actually move that beast. That thing was long and heavy.

Ok, back to your beast. Now, Im not a fabricator or anything, but thats something I would tackle. What I would do is first look at lowering the bottom mounts, just so I could keep the nice flat floor of the bed. But if thats outta the question then up is next.

I tend to build things a lil too large and beefy, cause I dont want failure and Im not all that up on the limits of correct construction.

So like you said, a cross member is in order because they are coilovers its gonna support the entire rear weight and side loads. Personally I would use 2x4x1/4", maybe even look at 3/16" wall. Weight isnt too much of an issue and the diff between 1/4" and 3/16 isnt that much. Maybe a couple pounds. But the bar will only be in compression so 3/16 wall should be fine, but I would use 1/4", I like that stuff, talk about strong!!!

I like the idea of plating up from the frame to the new K-member. I would use 1/4" plate for that, both sides. I would then have an angled piece of tube coming up off the plate to the underside of the k member on the inside to take up the side loads. Those two pieces alone will take all the side loading. Again, heavy wall tube, 3/16" will be fine. A 45 degree or a lil more angle will be fine. Too much of an angle will try to push up on the new k member, not that 1/4" walled tubing cares much, really, but a tighter angle will keep the loads towards the original frame.

Then I would do the same for the outside of the frame to where the coilovers are gonna mount. Take them all the way out to where the mounting eyes are gonna be, whatever that angle ends up being. Close up the end of the k member tube with a plate to help with strength and looks. Have some tabs welded on the k member, I also like 1/4" tabs, for the coilover and go with it...

Now, without seeing it and all just a simple k member is what I see, just like what you said. How high up are you gonna have to go?? Not that it matters much, I think this setup will be good for at least 5 inches vertically. Any higher then I might look at some fore and aft bracing. But if your original frame has enough beef to it and you use 1/4" plate to come up off of it I think it will be fine. Famous last words huh, crap, I thought it would be FINE LOL No really, thats a battle ship and build it like one.

I love seeing these cars on the road still doing their job. Hell!!! I grew up in a station wagon seems like, we traveled across the country several times back and forth in one. They are todays SUVs. Cept back in the day there werent any seatbelt laws, so the entire back part was our (me and my sis) play area, yeah, we were young. I prolly have thousands of miles in the back of a station wagon...

Make sure to toss up some pics whatever way you go. Im interested... JR

[The Stickman]

Actually the coilovers mount inside the frame. on this car the frame is at the outermost part of the car. so they would mount dirrectly to the new crossmember right inside of the frame rail just forward of the axle pretty much where the stock shocks are.

[JRouche]

Actually the coilovers mount inside the frame. on this car the frame is at the outermost part of the car. so they would mount dirrectly to the new crossmember right inside of the frame rail just forward of the axle pretty much where the stock shocks are.

LOL... Dummy me, I have been working on my car for so long I forgot real car frames are a lil wider.. Geeze, talk about tunnel vision. I mounted mine to the outside.



Ok, well that makes it a lil more interesting. Are they gonna be vertical, or slanted slightly (in or out?).

I imagine if they are mounted close to the frame then angled pieces are not need. If they are in from the frame by anymore than say five inches with a 1/4" wall k member then I would worry about the k member flexing and think about some additional support. If they are close to the frame then the k member is only there to keep the frame from spreading. And it sounds like you already thought about the lower mounts. Shock mounts wont work. Now you are supporting the entire car from the mounts. A half wrapped (on the axle tube) bracket is gonna be needed. JR

[The Stickman]

The shocks are ver outboard on the axle and will be as close to the frame as I can get them without any interference, They will be close to verticle with the tops leans out at the top towards the frame. So like you said the crossmember will be more to keep the frame from flexing and spreading. Not so worried about the bottom mounts as they are close to what you already mention. Nothing a bit of redisigning and modifying won't cure. But if the tops aren't figured out then no sense addressing the bottoms