Fatmat installation is done

[72Z/28]

Hey PT. I have used this product on numerous restorations and have never had a problem. How is the humidity level whey the rolls are stored?? You could of gotten a bad batch as anything is possible.

Here is a pic of an installation in my 67 Pro Touring Mercury Cougar.

Looks good restomodcougar, I finally got the chance to see someone else using FATMAT.

[PT Goat]

Hey PT. I have used this product on numerous restorations and have never had a problem. How is the humidity level whey the rolls are stored?? You could of gotten a bad batch as anything is possible.

I've moved the unused rolls around several times from attached garage to my pole barn. Neither one has a moisture problem, but not ideal conditions either. Certainly not conditions under which I'd expect the product to completely fail. On the roll right now, it has as much adhesion as notebook paper.

[NOPANTS-68]

I used the Fatmat product on the Nova's whole inner skin and had the best results with a steel hand roller and a heatgun. It seemed just OK when applied off the roll, but when used with a heat gun it was welded to the floor! I couldn't pull it off with my pliers. I have used Dynamat several times, but for a little extra work with the heat gun, I'll save my self a couple hundred bucks every time. The Nova olny took about 65 ft., so I still have way more than enough for the Factory Five car I'm building. All for $110.

[Damn True]

So you simply cut it to fit, set it in place, hit it with the heat gun and rolled it down?

[wick]

NOPANTS, Is the trick to use a heat gun with the Fatmat? That's what I bought but was thinking I wasted my money.

[NOPANTS-68]

I'm not sure if it's THE trick, but it really worked well on my application. When I first laid it down, I pulled on it to see just how much grip it had. I though it was pretty weak and to be quite honest, not as tacky as the true Dynamat was. However, once I used a little heat from the gun and a roller- well let's just say that the only way it will come off now is if I grind it off. lol

I would agree with those that had a problem with adhesion, but use the gun and the results were excellent.

[Steve N 69 69 69]

How much does all that tar paper weigh when your done?
I've heard bad things about water/moisture getting under it and floors rotting out, if its not sealed tight.
I think I will try the spray on ones first. If I ever get tired of hearing the 40 series Flows that is. for now, the black paint on solid, rust free steel floors sounds beautiful to me.

[v7guy]

I would assume that like most things the surface prep is the most important aspect. Sometimes things/products do just fail. Adhesives aren't created equal. But it can be user error or QC just as easily.

I'm not bashing on anyone here, don't want you guys to get the wrong impression.

[TonyL]

The "trick" is to spray bedliner down FIRST. It gives the fatmat (or whichever) a super clean porous surface to bite to. I sprayed the bedliner, let it dry and gas out for 24 hours and then applyed my fat mat.

Here's the test piece. Note the material has started to actually come apart rather than let go of the bedliner. (duplicolor in a can truck bedliner 8 bucks a can) seems stuck well enough to me.

150 sq feet weighs in at 40 lbs.

[Damn True]

How much of the bedliner did you wind up using?

[TonyL]

inside the car? 1 and half cans. (i put it on thick, two coats worth in some places)

All together under the car, about 6 cans.

[airmedic911]

I used 100 square feet of fat mat in my 69 Camaro, covered everything, inside doors too. It's been a year, and it's just as tight as ever. i can't believe this stuff would ever come loose, but you have to have a good clean surface to apply it too, just like anything else, prep is major. i like FatMat alot, and I would use it again. Doubled it up in the back seat area to quiet it down over the Flowmaster 40's.
RJ

[airmedic911]

By the way, I orderd my FatMat on E-Bay, had it at my door in three days. Couldn't have been happier with the service. No complaints. I've heard the rumors about poor service, but not in my case. Also, 100 square foot roll adds about 30# to car. Not even a factor given what a difference it makes in my opinion. And i didn't even use the whole roll in my 69.
RJ

[Second Skin Rep]

The problem with FatMat is that it is an asphalt based product.
Regardless of how well you clean the surface, or heat up the product, if the mat reaches its softening point (which is only 180 degreees on asphalt) it will start to liquify, the volities will be released and eventually it will fail.

We used to sell an asphalt version of Damplifier about 5 years ago. It was the same basic stuff. after our first summer though, we had a return/complaint rate of about 30%. That was when we decided to change to butyl.
After our second summer that rate went up to over 50%.
No a few couple of first years.

For a good read on asphalt vs butyl check out this guys site:

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Lots of great info there!

ANT
www.secondskinaudio.com

[O'Neall]

Ant... who many square feet of your Damplifier or Damplifier Pro product would it take to cover pretty much the entire interior of my 1977 Trans Am? I want to do the floor, rear seating area, sail panels, doors, etc. Pretty much just cover the entire interior? I read that showdown link you privided and it certainly does reflect well on your product... but as with all things price is a concern, so knowing how much it would take would greatly help me in determining just how much it would cost in the end!!!

Thanks!!!!!!

[TonyL]

After reading up on it, and doing some comparisons of my own. I plan to scrape my fatmat off of the roof of my car and replace it with damplifier. I compared my fatmat with the damplifier pro on a two equal sized peices of plate in my dad's shop. The panel with the damplifier was FAR more affected than the fat mat panel. Both were less "tinny" sounding but the damplifer one was just a dull thud.

Good stuff you got there Ant.

[Second Skin Rep]

Ant... who many square feet of your Damplifier or Damplifier Pro product would it take to cover pretty much the entire interior of my 1977 Trans Am? I want to do the floor, rear seating area, sail panels, doors, etc. Pretty much just cover the entire interior? I read that showdown link you privided and it certainly does reflect well on your product... but as with all things price is a concern, so knowing how much it would take would greatly help me in determining just how much it would cost in the end!!!

Thanks!!!!!!

To propertly treat the intire interior, you will need to go with about 120-160 sq feet of Damplifier or Damplifier Pro.
Since price is a concern, I say go with regular Damplifier or Spectrum. Either of these will work very nice.
You could also go the route of many of our TA customers and get 80 sq feet of Damplifier and 5 gallons Spectrum. This is an awesome pacakge.

Feel free to call me with any questions:
623.533.8193
800.679.8511

I will be happy to set aside some time to discuss your project further. If I don't answer, please leave a message. I will call you back!

Remeber, I am always happy to help, whether you use Second Skin or not.

ANT
www.secondskinaudio.com

[restomodcougar]

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to mention that I used a liner product called Al's Liner and it is a DIY spray on liner that comes with black pigment but you can even tint it to whatever color your car is by getting a can of pigment from Autozone or any automotive place that sells paint. Cost me about $100 for the kit and did the trunk and floor in Redfire Metallic and looks awsome! I added some rubber crumb that I got from a local tire recycler as they say on their site that if you ad it it creates better sound deadening properties and I need it with a 347 stroker and Flowmaster Super 44's! I won't be using Dynamat or Fatmat again now!

Their website is http://www.alsliner.com

[barno68]

The adhesive is gone completely on two unused rolls after about 2 years on the shelf. That wouldn't have anything to do with heat. Anywhere there was heat in the car (like the tranny tunnel) the foil tends to peel away and the sound deadener itself is melted to the floor. And that's with less than 50 miles on the car since installation. Up under the dash, where heat isn't much of a factor, it's falling down. And I haven't even driven the car since doing up under the dash. I started with just the floor and doors and ended up doing the firewall and under the dash later when the car came completely apart.

The adhesive going bad after 2 years of sitting seems fairly normal to me as they have a limited shelf life. However, this does not effect its performance as a sound deadner. The eDead I used was the same way (3 years in my case). I just used 3M spray adhesive when installing and it works great. I know this defeats the ease of peel and stick matting, but it is not going to come off. I have mine doubled up on the roof and it is fine. Can't see this as a reason for throwing out two rolls of unused product.

[Second Skin Rep]

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to mention that I used a liner product called Al's Liner and it is a DIY spray on liner that comes with black pigment but you can even tint it to whatever color your car is by getting a can of pigment from Autozone or any automotive place that sells paint. Cost me about $100 for the kit and did the trunk and floor in Redfire Metallic and looks awsome! I added some rubber crumb that I got from a local tire recycler as they say on their site that if you ad it it creates better sound deadening properties and I need it with a 347 stroker and Flowmaster Super 44's! I won't be using Dynamat or Fatmat again now!

Their website is http://www.alsliner.com

For around $100 you could have got 2 gallons of a real vibration damper that is designed to reduce stucture borne noise, rather than a DIY Bed liner that has very little sound deadening properties. Adding crumb rubber will not help with the sound deadening unless you add graphite or magnesium stearate to revulconized the rubber. Considering als liner is a polyurethane and not an elastomer, it won't convert vibrational energy in to frictional heat.
Glad you like the results however!

ANT