help which brake line flare tool for stainless lines

[gkring]

Matt,

Does the tool have any problems making the push-lock upset on -6 stainless tubing? If it can do that I may pop for one. I really like the GM OE pushlock connections.

I tried to use it today to do a double flare on 1/2" (-8) stainless tubing and it would just push the tube without flaring. I had the dies as tight as I could by hand and was not willing to use a little leverage help to get it tighter. It may do a single flare, but I didn't try it. I doubt if it will do a pushlock on stainless. Maybe there is a softer stainless tube than what I have however. I just had this leftover from my last car. It does regular steel line wonderfully.

[CarlC]

Why would you want to double flare a stainless tube?

[BonzoHansen]

Why would you want to double flare a stainless tube?

SS has no seam to be concerned with, which is the reason to dbl flare, correct?

[The WidowMaker]

ive never heard of a double flare for stainless. just single flare and the brass seals. annealed stainless is much softer and will bend and flare easier. anybody know where to get it in long straight pieces?

Tim

[gkring]

ive never heard of a double flare for stainless. just single flare and the brass seals. annealed stainless is much softer and will bend and flare easier. anybody know where to get it in long straight pieces?

Tim

Guess that is why I have such a hard time trying to flare it. So if you did want to double flare small stainless line for your brakes you would just single flare it? The line I bought was from the local hydraulic hose shop. Straight line in at least 8 foot lengths. The larger 1/2 inch lines I bought seem pretty tough. No way I could bend them with a standard tubing bender. I had to get the larger bender with foot long handles. I'll check my extra scrap next time I am at the shop to see if the marking tell me what kind it is.

[silver69camaro]

I tried to use it today to do a double flare on 1/2" (-8) stainless tubing and it would just push the tube without flaring. I had the dies as tight as I could by hand and was not willing to use a little leverage help to get it tighter. It may do a single flare, but I didn't try it. I doubt if it will do a pushlock on stainless. Maybe there is a softer stainless tube than what I have however. I just had this leftover from my last car. It does regular steel line wonderfully.

I've done it several times, both 1/2 and 3/8. Perhaps your wall thickness was too high?

[silver69camaro]

SS has no seam to be concerned with, which is the reason to dbl flare, correct?

Correct. But in my position, my flaring tool makes beautiful double flares in under a minute, and does a better job at double flares than single.

[Rick Dorion]

I too bought the hydraulic mastercool tool. Initially I thought is was a bit extravagent but I've since had to do several on-vehicle repairs for various daily drivers and it's turned out to be an excellent investment. Perfect flares every time.

[CarlC]

Stainless can crack during the double-flare process. The smaller the diameter, the greater chance of cracking. For anything -8 and under for our applications a single flare is sufficient, easier to produce, and more reliable.

For a very interesting read Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing" is a great laymans book on basics of such things.

[silver69camaro]

Carl,
I've noticed it depends on what SS tubing you purchase. I've used some tubing I got at some local hydraulic shop, and it had small cracks every time I flared it. The tubing I use now (from Williams Oil Filter Service in Tacoma, WA) never does crack. It appears to be the same material used by Inline Tube and others. I wish I knew what material grade it is.

[Karch]

Fully annealed is what you want.

I used to sell thousands of feet of stainless (also titanium, inconel, tantalum, nitinol).

I can't remember specifics, but the particular alloys have an effect on forming, and it's really the cold working that causes the problems.

[gearheads78]

Why would you want to double flare a stainless tube?

Stainless can crack during the double-flare process. The smaller the diameter, the greater chance of cracking. For anything -8 and under for our applications a single flare is sufficient, easier to produce, and more reliable.

For a very interesting read Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and Plumbing" is a great laymans book on basics of such things.

SS has no seam to be concerned with, which is the reason to dbl flare, correct?

ive never heard of a double flare for stainless. just single flare and the brass seals. annealed stainless is much softer and will bend and flare easier. anybody know where to get it in long straight pieces?

Tim

This is the first time I have ever used stainless and just assumed it should be double like steel tube. I have done my whole car in double flare. Do need to be concerned? I did not see any cracks but since I was not really looking for cracks I may have missed something. The tubing was a roll I got from inline tube.

[silver69camaro]

Do need to be concerned?

No, Inline Tube's lines are good for flaring.