Camaro G-Link Suspension First Look!

[Marcus SC&C]

Theer`s been quite a bit of talk about the new G-Link rear suspension from Chassisworks but we`ve had to use pics of the Mustang system until now. The Mustang G-Link is a great system but they went even further with the Camaro G-Link. The whole upper cradle has been redesigned to reduce weight,increase exhaust room and better strengthen the uni body. Install is still quick and easy with NO CUTTING at all. They`ve added TrueCenter greasable delrin pivots to all 8 points on the arms. They`re quiet, long lasting and allow effortless articulation with a minimum of binding. Both the upper and lower arms are adjustable for length. The pre production sample in the pics is also equipped with the frame mounted (sprung weight) adj. rate swaybar. It`s got 3 settings to tune the cars handling characteristics. Note all the additional suspension mounting holes that allow easy tuning of the anti squat, IC location and roll steer. That`s a very big deal! The coil overs mounts are adj. for both ride height and motion ratio in addition to their usual adjustments. They`ve even incorperated trailer tie down loops into the LCA mounts. This system should prove to be extremely adaptable. It`s also among the lightest weight link/coil over conversions available (even more so with the optional aluminum arms). It may very well be THE lightest. A little bird told me that production units should be shipping in about a week so time is running out fast to order at the pre-order price. I hate to sound like a freakin salesman but I`d hate to see anyone pay a few hundred extra because we didn`t tell them. Mark SC&C

[Flash68]

Mark, what is your ETA on that adjustable arm upgrade for the older Air Bars?

thanks

[UNWRITTENLAW1910]

will this kit work with DSE mini-tub wheel wells?

[Marcus SC&C]

Flash, a couple weeks yet for 2nd Gen and another few weeks for the 1st Gen. We plan to do all the G Bars eventually. We want to do them once and do them right.

Yes, it should work just as well with the mini tubs as the G-Bar does. Note none of the brackets extend past the OE frame rails. With the proper backspacing etc. 335s should be no problem at all. Mark SC&C

[John McIntire]

damn! That setup looks clean and simple!

[Mkelcy]

Mark: It looks like the G-Link uses the stock leaf spring front mounting points in the body and the stock leaf spring pads on the rear. Is that correct?

I also assume you need to weld the brackets for the upper control arms onto the rear. Correct?

Does the frame narrowing for the DSE mini-tubs occur to the rear of the G-Link bracket, or do you end up trimming the G-Link crossmember.

Finally, what is the pre-production price for the setup pictured, with the double adjustable Vari-shocks and the sway bar?

[Flash68]

Flash, a couple weeks yet for 2nd Gen and another few weeks for the 1st Gen. We plan to do all the G Bars eventually. We want to do them once and do them right.

Thanks Mark.

What would you say the real world advantages are for someone like me if I were to upgrade my old Air Bar with your arm kit? What can't I do now that I will be able to do with this upgrade?

[MoparCar]

Mopar e-body........?

[Marcus SC&C]

Mkelcy, yes all of the G-Link and G-Bar suspensions use the front spring mounts. Afterall that`s the point that GM engineers built to take the loads of propelling the car so it makes a great deal of sense. The rear of the arms bolt to the original spring pads (there are versions for both mono and multi leaf). You can also opt for Chassisworks weld on mounts for a slicker look or even a complete FAB9 9" rear axle with all of the brackets already welded in place. In the std. system the two upper arms mounts weld to the axle tubes. They`re pre-notched and just have to be located and welded in place. You can do that by tape measure and angle finder or with a Chassisworks UCA bracket fixture (made for 10/12 bolt or 9") that`s pretty inexpensive and returnable for a 50% refund. That makes it a real no brainer.
Mini tubs relocate the shocks inboard and move the inner wheelwells inboard but leave the structural rails intact so there`s no affect on the G-Link install. The G-Link will give you more tire clearance than you`d have with leaf springs though. If you were doing a full pro street style tubs naturally you`d want to go with a system that incorperates it`s own narrowed frame rails like one of Chassisworks whole rear suspension clips.
Pre-order price for the basic G-Link is $2049. Add $359 for the adj. rear bar and $200 to upgrade to QS2 double adj. coilovers (QS1 come standard). The price is expected to jump a few hundred dollars when they start shipping.

Flash68, our new arms are double adj. billet aluminum. They`re easier to adj., give you adj. lowers to tweak the wheelbase,lighter than the original steel arms and have greasable pivot ball joints at all 8 positions just like the G-Link. These are quiet,long wearing and allow a wide range of articulation without any suspension binding. In other words they can locate the rear axle more precisely for crisper handling but allow it to move more freely without binding so ride is actually improved. Win/win, gotta love it. We actually planned on doing these a couple years ago but we heard the G-Link was coming and would already have those features and that it was assumed that they would interchange and be offered as an upgrade. It turns out that the G-Link is all new and no major parts interchange so it opened up the door to do these again.

MoparCar, AFAIK they intend to do a G-Link for all of the G-Bar applications eventually including the B/E body Mopars. There are so many variations to do though that it may be a year or more before they get to it. By then Chris will probably have figured out how to incorperate space thrusters or something into it.
In the mean time we will be doing our new billet arms for the Mopar G-Bars and we carry a Hellwig adj. rate rear bar for them as well. The G-Bar is still a great system. In it`s standard form it`s among the very best true touring systems. These options just make it more hardcore. Mark SC&C

[dhutton]

Hi Mark. What will be the price of your upgrade kit for the G-Bar?

Thanks,
Don

[Vegas69]

Being an owner of the original G Bar here are my thoughts. Not crazy about the U bolts over the axle. That is going to make for less ground clearance. Is there an option for welded tabs for the lower links still? If not then it's not the cats meow for us custom guys.

[dhutton]

Being an owner of the original G Bar here are my thoughts. Not crazy about the U bolts over the axle. That is going to make for less ground clearance. Is there an option for welded tabs for the lower links still? If not then it's not the cats meow for us custom guys.

I think the answer is here, you can get welded tabs:

The rear of the arms bolt to the original spring pads (there are versions for both mono and multi leaf). You can also opt for Chassisworks weld on mounts for a slicker look or even a complete FAB9 9" rear axle with all of the brackets already welded in place.

Don

[TBART70]

My buddy ordered his with the weld on lower brackets, he will be putting it on a 12 bolt.
You can also opt for Chassisworks weld on mounts for a slicker look.

[Vegas69]

Smart option.....

[bobhamilton15090]

Mini tubs relocate the shocks inboard and move the inner wheelwells inboard but leave the structural rails intact so there`s no affect on the G-Link install. The G-Link will give you more tire clearance than you`d have with leaf springs though.hardcore. Mark SC&C

but mini tubbing a 1969 camaro requires the notching of the factory frame rails in order to have the full clearance. So how would you fit a 335 without notching the rails where the G-ling rear mount bolts in? I would think you would have to notch the rail, box them in, install the G-link brackets trim to fit and weld them in place.
Let me know if I am incorrect, this is how it looks from the install pictures.
thanks,
bob

[1969CamaroRS]

but mini tubbing a 1969 camaro requires the notching of the factory frame rails in order to have the full clearance. So how would you fit a 335 without notching the rails where the G-ling rear mount bolts in? I would think you would have to notch the rail, box them in, install the G-link brackets trim to fit and weld them in place.
Let me know if I am incorrect, this is how it looks from the install pictures.
thanks,
bob

Actually on my mini-tub with 335 tires, I could have probably left the frame rails alone. I have a good solid 3-4" of space between the rim and the frame rail. The limited factor for me is the lower trailing arm clearance between the wheel.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Actually on my mini-tub with 335 tires, I could have probably left the frame rails alone. I have a good solid 3-4" of space between the rim and the frame rail. The limited factor for me is the lower trailing arm clearance between the wheel.

Do what? You must not have stock frame rails. With stock frame rails, even with the frame notch there is no more then a 3/4" per side

[ProdigyCustoms]

Bob, it does look like they may have to be a tiny trim on the back of the bracket. I will know soon as I get mine in

[John McIntire]

it looks like thare are some tie down rings on the lower portion where the lower control arm bracket bolts up to the stock leaf spring mount. I'm really liking this setup!

[jknight16]

Being an owner of the original G Bar here are my thoughts. Not crazy about the U bolts over the axle. That is going to make for less ground clearance. Is there an option for welded tabs for the lower links still? If not then it's not the cats meow for us custom guys.

It seems like it would have to be a pretty odd/rare scenario for the lower arm bracket, given its close proximity to the wheel and tire, to be put in a position to hit something on the ground during street/track use. Maybe you could clarify what you're thinking here?