Reducing hood/header panel gap

[barno68]

What is the best way to reduce the gap pictured below? I was thinking about using a hydraulic jack with a 2x4 and towel to push up on the panel. Any thoughts?

[oestek]

Um, I wouldn't do that just yet. How's the hood in relation to the fenders at the windshield? Can it move forward? How is the fender / header gap? You'll probably do better loosening those and moving them around before breaking out the hydraulics.

[barno68]

Um, I wouldn't do that just yet. How's the hood in relation to the fenders at the windshield? Can it move forward? How is the fender / header gap? You'll probably do better loosening those and moving them around before breaking out the hydraulics.

The header to fenders are right on. The hood could move forward and probably will when I install the new hinges, but the gap is wider at the nose then at the hood edges. Probably 1/4-3/8". If I lift up on the header in the center it looks pretty good, but I am concerned about how the grill will fit.

[200horse]

I would try moving in the center of the header only. You may have to take the grill in and out till you find a happy medium between the hood and grill. The header is the poblem yes.

[1BADRS]

My vote is to leave it as is...
Yea, there is a gap there, but has anyone actually said anything about it?
Reason im saying this is because these types of issues tend to irratate the owner more than anyone else.
The paint looks too terriblly nice to get the hydros out.
Or better yet, take it to a couple of professionals (paint and body)
for estimations and cost.
Id try several and taking advice of members of this forum for suggestion.

Just my 2 cents.

[Vegas69]

Looks to have aftermarket hood or header. Metal work is the proper way.

[Jim Nilsen]

Did you replace your core support bushings ? the problem could be that the core support is raised up or the valance pieces too low and there is a variance from the mounting points of the fenderwells,fenders and the header mounting points that needs to be addressed. I have seen old worn bushings cause the opposite and new bushings not squashed enough cause this problem. The design of the whole front clip on second gens really depends on the way those bushings are installed and the rest of the mounting hardware.

Study it very carefully and you will be able to see what I am referring to.

Goodluck and what ever you do ,refrain from using forceful methods to solve it unless the metal has been tweaked as already stated.

It was very good advice to just leave it alone if you are not 100% sure that what you are going to do will do the trick.

[HILROD]

I think on the first and second gens the hood latch can push the header forward in the middle. Try and remove the latch, the header should spring in or can be pulled in by modifying the latch or core support. The latch is easier.

[Jim Nilsen]

I think on the first and second gens the hood latch can push the header forward in the middle. Try and remove the latch, the header should spring in or can be pulled in by modifying the latch or core support. The latch is easier.

That's a great place to start. Very good advice.

Loosening up the fender to core support and fender braces to the core support and pushing it back may also do it too. It may take a combination of all of them to get it perfect.

This thread is getting better each time someone adds to it.Alignment on the 2nd gens is always such a pain because of all the curves and mounting points. The RS models are even more of a pain with the endura bumper.

[Finch]

Remove the rad mount or upper shroud from the core support and tweak it in at the center where the latch assembly mounts. The center section will flex fairly easy.

The latch can be put in a vice but then it changes the mounting angles where the bolts attach to the header and core support. I have tried both and the core support works best, It all get hidden under the upper shroud anyway.

[Jim Nilsen]

After this thread is done there will be a lot more 2nd gens with a better gap than ever before .

[barno68]

Thanks for the advice, I will have to see if I can get the latch assembly out without doing any damage. bending the mounting lip sound like the best bet.