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    Results 1 to 13 of 13
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Location
      pickering ontario canada
      Posts
      196
      Country Flag: Canada

      power window kit recommendations please

      Hey guys

      71 chevelle, i want to do power windows, so i have the big two heavy fronts and then then two little back seat ones.

      obv being an old car, i don't want some cheap china kit that can't power these windows up and down.. i also dont
      want to spend 1000$! on a kit

      what have u guys done? tried? help! link me!

      thanks

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2013
      Location
      Gilbert, AZ
      Posts
      934
      Country Flag: United States
      I have used the Nu-Relics kit from Matt at MCB, and I'm 100% satisfied with it. Great quality, Made in the USA, easy, and no problems at all. In a 70 Camaro.
      Josh Campbell- Pushing the limits of my HOA since 2011
      71 Firebird- 455, Ridetech front suspension. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...04#post1124504
      67 Camaro RS/SS clone, Speedtech front suspension, coilovers, soon to get LT1/T56.
      82 Z28- cheapie beater, soon to get a 406.
      66 Mustang coupe- 393, T-5, sold. https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...-Coupe-GT393-C

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      power window kit recommendations please

      Nu Relics and nothing else.
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      El Paso, Texas
      Posts
      410
      I agree with Nu-Relics. I have them in the rear and the Electric Life for the fronts and you can tell the difference. Another big factor for me was that if the motors go out on the electric life ones it's $170 for a new motor. The Nu-Relics use GM style motors and those are cheap and readily available. While Nu-Relics were more expensive, I think it's worth it in the long run. Buy the fronts first and then the rears later. MCB had a good price and excellent customer service. It's always a pleasure dealing with them.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      The hardware kits are pretty stout on the Nu-Relics kits-I've installed a few kits as well-I build my own auto down/up harnesses for them though-I prefer having quick touch down and up due to the goofy factory location of the factory master switch lol
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      Here's a splice kit I typically use for guys who already have a reverse polarity style window motor kit and the existing wiring is in great shape-I also supply full replacement auto down/up or just stock accessory harnesses as well. I update (ie modernize) the factory style design on several aspects as opposed to mirroring the GM electrical schematic which has its shortcomings with hindsight being 20/20 30+ years later lol.

      I recently finished doing an 8ga upgrade to an otherwise stock 1970 Monte Carlo with power windows and updating the factory wiring route underhood and adding auto down to the stock window motors yielded a 1.6v increase at the motors which nearly cut the time in half for total travel going down then up! Add one touch quick down and it's a pretty nice setup with no more holding the window switch down.

      I'd suggest to anyone that improving the supply voltage to the interior is the single most important aspect of 64-72 A-body electrical performance. Is an updated fuse panel absolutely needed? No-you can vastly improve the vehicles system without replacing the entire bulkhead and wiring-if the car is completely tore apart then that's different-but a good weekend overhaul on a clean driver? Then it can be done!
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2017
      Location
      pickering ontario canada
      Posts
      196
      Country Flag: Canada
      ok ok so grab nu relics for the fronts and go a little lesser on the rears since i will hardly use them and its a much smaller window...

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      The Nu-relics use a different style window motor than the stock one which means you can't mix the styles up-OEM motors are self grounding, later style (like most of the retro-fit kits) ground through the window switch. So whatever you do, make sure the front/rear motors are the same style.
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      Nashville/ Tampa
      Posts
      730
      Country Flag: United States
      I didn't want to mess with replacing regulators and all that so I just used a spal deluxe kit with illuminated switches from A-1electric. Works well.

      https://www.instagram.com/gen_v_lt1_chevelle/


      Do not buy anything from Frankie's Used Auto Parts. Ever.
      Chevelle ̶a̶l̶m̶o̶s̶t̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ L92/200-4r now Gen V LT1 and T56- https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...nvertible.html


    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Tinley Park, IL
      Posts
      1,215
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by chuckd71 View Post
      I didn't want to mess with replacing regulators and all that so I just used a spal deluxe kit with illuminated switches from A-1electric. Works well.
      This? http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...Code=3300-0030

      I was considering using one of these kits as well.

      Nick ~
      1969 Cutlass

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      dallas, tx
      Posts
      1,731
      Country Flag: United States
      Just watched research on that power window conversion. Pretty neat

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      El Paso, Texas
      Posts
      410
      I've used the Spal kit on other cars and while they work well I didn't like the bulk. I wanted my panels smooth but it's all personal preference. As for the wiring, I had done custom wiring and switches with an auto up/down module so it didn't matter that front and rear were different types. I hooked it up to my alarm and roll the windows up and down with the remote, as well as having one touch up and down. I told a co-worker that it was an option in 1965. They had to think about it for a bit.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2009
      Location
      muggy midwest
      Posts
      533
      Country Flag: United States
      I prefer also to keep everything GM with regards to the harness but with upgrades....I even use GM solid state modules! This kit here is for factory power window equipped 70-79 fbodies w/updated fuse panel....imo none of the window harness kits are HD enough and for the work involved I'd want auto down and/or up anyhow-nothing more aggravating than having obsolete aftermarket components go bad with no replacements-keep it all GM lol
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      "...if at first you don't succeed, try again.
      If you still don't succeed, then quit-no sense being a damn fool about it..."
      -W.C. Fields

      HARNESSWORX
      (formerly gmachinz)




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