Why do ford front suspensions suck?

[Nothingface5384]

My bro has a 73 ford maverick
Original plan was just modifying the stock suspension coilover TCP arms, drop spindle, uni-steer rack, custom carolina FSB, had custom HD roadrace bellybar, export bar, monte bar, essentric camber kit and shelby drop index tool..
but time we purchase all that it'd be ALLOT of money


the strut kits from either RRS, Fatman Fab and Gateway performance or AJE seem good, more so for the money vs modifed stock? but has issues..

The M2 kit via R&C motorsports, again seems really good bang for your buck...also has issues like control arm mounts needing gussets and the design flaw of the arms themselves being too small to handle the load..

AME C6 IFS front clip sounds like the beast ordeal, cost about 1100 more versus the m2 kit...but doesnt include cost of brake system like m2 kit does
but no idea what surprises we'll encounter during install?

[pro67coupe]

the stock but modified suspensions do not suck. look at the old trans am race cars. they were fast

[Nothingface5384]

yeah, just like the funky ram assist streering doesn't suck right? :-D
I'd rather rock a mii kit versus spending more on modified stock..and if you go rack and pinion, you loose your belly bar that mounts to your lower control arms.. or keep bellybar and stuck with ****ty steering
at the price of modifed stock I can buy AME front clip..just extra cost would add up from labor and brake kit

all I'm saying is theirs no good boltin solution for your bang for performance buck..its either mediocre boltin kit of a weldin univeral but tailored spec front clip

[pro67coupe]

If everything is working proper and in good shape they can handle very well. I have the full aje kit on the front of my car. If I could do it again I would keep the stock set-up with upgraded parts. Check out maier racing. That car is nicely set up and is fast around an autocross course. If I could do it again I would go with street or tracks front and rear set-up. Happy shopping let us know what you decide on

[GrabberGT]

My bro has a 73 ford maverick
Original plan was just modifying the stock suspension coilover TCP arms, drop spindle, uni-steer rack, custom carolina FSB, had custom HD roadrace bellybar, export bar, monte bar, essentric camber kit and show drop index tool..
but time we purchase all that itd be ALLOT of money

Sounds a lot like my recipe and no it was not cheap. Especially when you add on a power steering rack. Drop spindles were not cheap either. They alone were 1k. But it does handle well. The good thing about this method is you can make changes in waves where as a front clip/cradle system will require a complete overhaul and costly fabrication.

I'd start with stock control arms and going with shelby drop. you dont need the HD belly bar yet (unless you dont have a belly bar at all). Unisteer racks and TCP racks replace and act as a belly bar. Another option is upgrade the steering box. Maier has a recipe he'll share with you. No drop spindles until you know you need them. The car is already really low by the time you get the lower control arms leveled out. You run into tire and wheel fitment issues at that point. This being a handling car, Im sure you'll want larger tires and wheels.

In addition to the Maier Racing Mustang, I'll add that ridetech also has their mustang using a modified stock style suspension. Its their old design and not the tru-turn. Its been running that way for quite a few years on shock-waves. Having riden in it, I can say, it DOES NOT SUCK. LOL

[latamud]

Call John and Shari, 831-659-0688, they have street packages if you don't want to go full race. Tell them the purpose of your build, they won't try oversell and won't break the bank..
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/
The car doesn't know if it has a modified stock control arm or a tubular control arm on it. Getting your suspension set up with good brakes, a good alignment will make the difference you are looking for. Opentracker (ORP) has Shelby/Arning drop template plates, free with order. Steering: roller spring perches and roller idler kit with the adjustable strut rods will make a world of difference. If your steering has a lot of play in it you might need new rod ends, bushings or steering box.

My 66 Mustang handles great, no slop. I have 48 year old control arms. There are no bushings in the upper control arms. I dismantled the shaft, cleaned everything, and centered both shafts. Sometimes the arms were not centered from the factory. Press out the knurled bolts, spin the shaft in place and it will adjust forward/backward. I swapped in new Moog upper ball joints. For the upper and lower arms, I welded a plate underneath boxing them for added strength. I modded the ball joint angle on the upper arms and used a 1.75" Shelby drop. For the lower arms, I installed the ORP lower control arm spherical bearing kit, screw in ball joints (making the lower arms rebuildable) and adjustable camber kit. I run the ORP roller spring perches, adjustable strut rod and roller idler arm kit. I also run 1" drop coils and koni shocks, big front/rear sway bars.
I currently have a Cobra IRS but before this I had the Global West Del-Alum bushings in my 48 year old leaf springs and the suspension was nice and tight then too.

[Red67Mustang]

Original plan was just modifying the stock suspension coilover TCP arms, drop spindle, uni-steer rack, custom carolina FSB, had custom HD roadrace bellybar, export bar, monte bar, essentric camber kit and show drop index tool..
but time we purchase all that itd be ALLOT of money

That's actually not too bad of a list of parts, compared to some. The stock Ford suspension is as good as most from that era. Any comparative car will require as much or more. That said, I encourage you to do some homework before putting down any cash. You've listed a wide array of options that are each suited to very different driving applications. To 'handle well' the suspension needs to be designed for the intended task. For getting groceries, they all work fine.

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

In many ways, the Ford suspension could be considered superior to that of a comparable GM car. We offer individual components that will improve certain aspects of the suspension without having to do everything at once. You can install just the upper/lower/strut rods or our bolt-in Econo Coilover system or do the whole thing at once. Chris's Maverick (GrabberGT) has the TCP front coilover conversion. It handles quite well (made it to optima last year) as do many, many other Mavericks and Mustangs out there with TCP suspension.

Going to a Mustang-II type suspension is completely worthless unless you are building a Street-Rod and need space inside the engine compartment. The Mustang-II was a fat Pinto, hardly a vehicle known for being the pinnacle of automotive engineering and precision handling. If you want maximum modern performance, then you might install our Street Machine front crossmember with modern components and geometry or upgrade even further to our extended track width suspension with our billet uprights. It's like my dad always said; 'Speed costs money, how fast ya wanna go?'

[Nothingface5384]

Yeah I know,
I flock and post on maverick.to alot

I sold off the chassis stiffening stuff, bro wants to eve tally install a coyote engine.
I'll check out your stuff as I know you have great stuff for GM
But out of my original list AME ifs clip is best..just not totally sure what I may have to rework
Yeah I know oem type suspension does work well.. I just literally hated the stock steering setup...and the UMI performance rack I think is a fail...As you loose 5 to 6 degrees turning radius in either left or right turns...not really big deal just the fact your paying for a 1500 upgrade to not even match stock in every department..
I agree...m2 is crap. ..leave it for pintos and Mustang IIs

[Nothingface5384]

Ps...for the longest time this site has made my think triangulated 4 links like I GM a bodies and fox bodies were crap and just had vandaid parts...And 3 link was god for a solid axle car till I seem the video of AME 3link vs tri4 link
Ps still love your 3link mod grabber
Did you ever got 363 yet?

[Nothingface5384]

In many ways, the Ford suspension could be considered superior to that of a comparable GM car. We offer individual components that will improve certain aspects of the suspension without having to do everything at once. You can install just the upper/lower/strut rods or our bolt-in Econo Coilover system or do the whole thing at once. Chris's Maverick (GrabberGT) has the TCP front coilover conversion. It handles quite well (made it to optima last year) as do many, many other Mavericks and Mustangs out there with TCP suspension.

Going to a Mustang-II type suspension is completely worthless unless you are building a Street-Rod and need space inside the engine compartment. The Mustang-II was a fat Pinto, hardly a vehicle known for being the pinnacle of automotive engineering and precision handling. If you want maximum modern performance, then you might install our Street Machine front crossmember with modern components and geometry or upgrade even further to our extended track width suspension with our billet uprights. It's like my dad always said; 'Speed costs money, how fast ya wanna go?'

What's your weld in crossmember/clip based off suspension part/brake wise?

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

What's your weld in crossmember/clip based off suspension part/brake wise?

It was all designed in Pro-E; it's not based off anything. It's all proprietary except the consumables. THIS is a pretty good article on the process. Now we have laser scanners and stuff, LIKE THIS, but the overall process is still the same. Zero bump-steer through six inches of wheel travel. You can read about different parts of the system HERE.

[Nothingface5384]

nice, I just assumed it was based off some O.E.M parts like corvette arms or something to that extent
also, I also thought the bumpsteer adjustable tierods weren't idea for some reason such as bad tierod angle, or possible interference?

[Carl @ Chassisworks]

nice, I just assumed it was based off some O.E.M parts like corvette arms or something to that extent
also, I also thought the bumpsteer adjustable tierods weren't idea for some reason such as bad tierod angle, or possible interference?

If the suspension is designed properly, they don't bind. With our system they're not really necessary until you start trying to extract every last .001th of a second from your lap time.

What you're referring to is probably interference with the wheel hoop. That can happen on vehicles with stock suspension IF it needs a whole lot of shimming to correct the bump steer curve. That's especially common on Mopars.

[DJW32]

Not to take anything away from any vendor...my money would go toward maier Motorsport suspension parts. Mike really knows his stuff.

[Craig510]

Maier Racing and Maier Motorsports are no longer producing suspension and I believe they have sold out of stock. Mike Maier is no longer associated with that business. Mike started a new business, Mike Maier Inc based out of Livermore CA. He is currently tooling up and will have new products out by the end of October.

[Red67Mustang]

After much research I ended up with a collection of Opentracker Racing Products and www.streetortrack.com suspension components. I've been very satisfied with the handling.

[Nothingface5384]

yeah, I was being kind of relative with the term sucking,
ive did plenty of research when we first got the maverick when we first did a 302 swap in 08 i think it was, and we planned to stay with stock performance parts as mentioned in my first post including SOT roller perches as it seemed like the best route compared to strut type and m2..
but he now plans to eventually add a coyote engine it it, so that leaves traditional out

Looking like we may either do the AME sport C6 based IFS or do Chassis works IFS clip ..looked at DSE but the width selection for their universal clips were blah..either too narrow or too wide