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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
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      Country Flag: United States

      Best way to get hand on a LS7 Engine??

      There's Ebay...Craigslist...Its just a crap shoot when buying from these places with the risk of the motor having problems.

      How have most of you acquired your LS7?
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      Best way to get hand on a LS7 Engine??

      A new one from a dealer such as Pace Performance, Jegs, etc!
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,316
      Country Flag: United States
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,355
      Country Flag: Canada
      I got really lucky with mine.... was a warranty job that wasn't supposed to leave the dealership...but did. regardless there was some legal crap and eventually the corvette owner got his parts and then sold them. I would recommend checking out Cleveland pick a part in Columbia station ohio....thats what the really cater to high performance wrecking yard
      Good luck Ryan Austin

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      California
      Posts
      794
      Country Flag: United States
      you can always buy a salvage from copart.com but good luck! All the yards go on there and pay more than what most are willing to shell out.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,355
      Country Flag: Canada
      For the right cash I could possibly be convinced to sell mine

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,664
      Country Flag: United States
      I second the recommendation for Cleveland Pick-a-Part. They used to adverstise on Lat-G a lot. Their prices seem very fair and if you buy from them via eBay you would be protected via PayPal
      http://www.clevelandpickapart.com/
      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Wake Forest,NC
      Posts
      843
      Country Flag: United States
      I bought mine off of the corvette forum http://forums.corvetteforum.com/

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
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      Country Flag: United States
      Still looking for one. Boy are they expensive....for that kind of cash, peace of mind may be in a new one.....
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,355
      Country Flag: Canada
      Maybe check out www.Dasilvamotorsport.com Manny is a awesome guy to deal with he may have a engine or could point you in the right direction. Hell I bet he could get you one and build it to a much better power level then the 505hp from the factory. The first thing he would recommend is bronze valve guides and stainless valves, mild port job,mill them to bump the compression a bit, one of his custom cams and, convert it to ls3 oiling system. End result....roughly 650 hp
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter ... soon to be revived ...
      On Instagram ryanaustinss70

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      San Antonio, TEXAS
      Posts
      202
      Buy my shortblock!

      2000 Pontiac Trans Am, Ls1/t56, SLP lid, LT's, cut-out, Borla cat-back.

      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, soon to get Ls1/t56 transplant.


    12. #12
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      Wake Forest,NC
      Posts
      843
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by raustinss View Post
      Maybe check out www.Dasilvamotorsport.com Manny is a awesome guy to deal with he may have a engine or could point you in the right direction. Hell I bet he could get you one and build it to a much better power level then the 505hp from the factory. The first thing he would recommend is bronze valve guides and stainless valves, mild port job,mill them to bump the compression a bit, one of his custom cams and, convert it to ls3 oiling system. End result....roughly 650 hp
      The LS7 already has 11.0:1 compression why go higher? That would put you into race gas territory. Why get rid of the dry sump? I also wouldn't use bronze guides in a street engine as they won't have the longevity of a steel guide.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,355
      Country Flag: Canada
      Nope, I asked specifically about the compression ratio and he said nope pump gas was still good I guess taking it up a touch with Arun's computer magic and tuning everything is fine. As for the guides we talked for about half hour two weeks ago at his shops open house . Now as I went over all the ideas I've been told or read about for fixing the issue with those heads he had the answer for why they don't work, partially because hes tried most of them. Getting rid if the dry sump for me was a no brainer
      1. 10 liter oil changes, with synthetic
      2. Greater chance of oil leaks with the lines, disaster on the road could rip apart a line and your stuck
      3. The cost to build a dry sump motor is a fair bit higher ,price out pumps not such from Aviaid...then price
      Out a katach ls3 pump.
      4. Making lines sucks lol
      5. Running lines all over the engine compartment is ugly
      6. Having to fab up a new tank to fit my car complete with baffles, breathers and fittings could become a pain
      In the ass
      7. Believe it or not but hot rod magazine got more power from switching a engine over.

      These are just my reasons as to why I don't want GM's weird dret oiling system, I guess you can call it part of the KISS theory. That and I think there is better chance of longer engine life.
      Please feel free to either contact the boys at Dasilva motorsport ,correct or educate me
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter ... soon to be revived ...
      On Instagram ryanaustinss70

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Jun 2001
      Location
      Orlando, FL
      Posts
      10,604
      Country Flag: United States
      The first thing he would recommend is bronze valve guides and stainless valves, mild port job,mill them to bump the compression a bit, one of his custom cams and, convert it to ls3 oiling system. End result....roughly 650 hp
      The LS7 has a significant problem with dropping valves. Among the C6 Z06 community it's well known, and many many people (including me) have pulled the heads, and replaced the factory iron guides with silicon-bronze and hollow stem valves with a more durable valve. The other weak point in the engine is the hypereutectic piston, which tends to fail first (my #7 lost the top portion of the ring land) which I discovered when I pulled the heads.

      The dry sump change doesn't add horsepower, the cam and porting do. My LS7 (with a mild cam, headers, mild porting) makes 540 hp at the tires, which is about 630-650 hp at the flywheel.

      Speaking of the dry sump, the LS7's system is a bit weak there too. It has a significant problem with long left-hand sweeping turns and runs out of oil. One look at the inside of the pan will explain why. The fix there is to add an additional scavenge pump or go with a full racing system. Converting to an LS3 wet sump setup might be a less-expensive alternative in a pro-touring car, since the oil tank represents a difficult packaging problem.

      jp
      Last edited by parsonsj; 04-19-2014 at 07:01 AM.
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    15. #15
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      Jun 2010
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      Quote Originally Posted by zamora7 View Post
      Buy my shortblock!
      What do you have??
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      kitchener,Ontario,Canada
      Posts
      2,355
      Country Flag: Canada
      Without getting all "no I'm right ". February 3 2010 hot rod magazine online took a ls7 converted it using ls3 parts and found 3-4 hp on average at higher rpm once they completed the swap. All the testing was sae corrected and done at livernois.
      Spinnin'my tires in life's fast lane

      Ryan Austin
      On twitter ... soon to be revived ...
      On Instagram ryanaustinss70

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Apr 2010
      Location
      San Antonio, TEXAS
      Posts
      202
      Ls7. I'm looking to do a stroker only reason I would sell it
      2000 Pontiac Trans Am, Ls1/t56, SLP lid, LT's, cut-out, Borla cat-back.

      1980 Pontiac Trans Am, soon to get Ls1/t56 transplant.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Dec 2005
      Location
      Birmingham, AL
      Posts
      3,355
      Country Flag: United States
      I think if I were going to get rid of the dry sump system I would go with a stroker ls3 and save a boat load of money. You could get nearly the same displacement and aftermarket heads/cam and be well on your way for much less. 3-4 hp on a 600 plus hp engine is negligible.
      Stephen

    19. #19
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      Jun 2010
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      Stephen,

      I would be curious about the combination....you can make an LS3 with the same stroke/bore as the LS7? I want the cubes and the reliable power not so much the "LS7"

      I just have a hard time thinking buying an LS3 and stroking it would be cheaper than a out right LS7
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Apr 2012
      Location
      Woodstock, IL
      Posts
      2,410
      Country Flag: United States

      Best way to get hand on a LS7 Engine??

      If you hand build a 427 LS3 you'll end up cheaper than an LS7. Or if you had a machine shop/engine builder do one. I'd say you could build one for around 9-10k pretty easy.

      -Dale
      SchwartzPerformance
      The leader in bolt-in muscle car chassis
      SchwartzPerformance.com | GMachineChassis.com | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram

      Dealer for: Forgeline, RideTech, Tremec, American Powertrain, Silver Sport Transmissions, GM Performance Parts, RECARO, Cerullo Seats, TMI Products, Vintage Air, Baer Brakes, Wilwood, BeCool, AFCO, Tanks Inc, Holley / Hooker, Ultimate Headers, Rick's Tanks, Moser Engineering, Currie, TechAFX, Stainless Works, II Much Fabrication, and many more

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