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    Results 1 to 6 of 6
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Near Dayton, OH
      Posts
      547

      Hot Rod Air evap wiring

      So I have an Evaporator from Hot Rod Air that has been out of business for quite a few years now. I had my stock HVAC controls modified to work with this evaporator and blower motor and have just now got to the point where I'm installing everything and getting it wired up.

      I have the wiring instructions for a typical install but it doesn't appear to show two of the wires coming from the blower motor and I'm not entirely sure how they should be hooked up. I know one is wired to the A/C thermostat switch and other is ground. The last wire is red.

      Beyond that there is a 3 prong plug (similar to a 4 pin trailer plug) that in the instructions is for the evap blower motor which has a red, yellow and orange wire. This plugs into the wiring harness that was created for my HVAC controls.

      At any rate, does anyone still run one of these systems and if so, do you remember anything about the wiring?

      I tried hooking the wires up to the battery directly to test the blower motor and got nothing but some smoke so I'm wondering if the red single wire is not supposed to be hooked to power?



      Thanks,
      Andrew
      1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme FE3X Clone
      EFI455/T56/9" w/ 4.30 gears
      __________________________________________________ __


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Near Dayton, OH
      Posts
      547
      Okay so after a little testing I found that the yellow is indeed the ground. The blue wire runs to the A/C thermostat switch and then out to the compressor/trinary switch. If I hook the red wire to the blue and essentially create a loop and then jumper a wire to one of the wires in the 3-prong plug I can get the blower motor to run in 3 different speeds.



      So that works. Now I just need to figure out why it's not working once I hook up the HVAC controls and relay harness.
      Andrew
      1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme FE3X Clone
      EFI455/T56/9" w/ 4.30 gears
      __________________________________________________ __



    3. #3
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, TX
      Posts
      221
      Country Flag: United States
      Take a look at page 9 of this PDF. It gives a detail of how those older systems were typically wired. His systems were similar to VA's obsolete systems. http://www.vintageair.com/Instructio...D%20(Inet).pdf

      The wires with the trailer type plug are for the three speeds. Orange is hi. The other three wires manipulate the field winding and are used to reverse the motor. Your blower turns in the opposite direction to VA's so you'll tie the red to the blue and ground the yellow. The blue coming out of the motor is not the same blue that's hooked to the thermostat. David would have his brother wire the custom controls and each was unique so you won't find any diagrams for your setup.

      If you post a pic of the control panel mods, I'll try to make sense of it.




      Quote Originally Posted by BigBlockOlds View Post
      Okay so after a little testing I found that the yellow is indeed the ground. The blue wire runs to the A/C thermostat switch and then out to the compressor/trinary switch. If I hook the red wire to the blue and essentially create a loop and then jumper a wire to one of the wires in the 3-prong plug I can get the blower motor to run in 3 different speeds.

      So that works. Now I just need to figure out why it's not working once I hook up the HVAC controls and relay harness.
      KUL FIR CHICK N: COOL FIRECHICKEN
      '68 Firebird, LS7, 6spd, DSE all around.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Near Dayton, OH
      Posts
      547
      Thanks for the help! Got it working now.

      Odd thing is that the blower motor is only activated when I have the selector switch on heater or defrost. Max A/C, A/C, vent, etc. do nothing. I'm assuming this is just how it operates and lets me just keep the look of the stock controls even if they don't actually function the same as stock?

      I'm assuming that if I want the A/C on I would just set the selector to either heat or defrost and then leave the Hot/Cold selector on Cold to keep the heater control valve closed?





      *EDIT* Nevermind, the blower motor runs in all positions like it should.
      Andrew
      1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme FE3X Clone
      EFI455/T56/9" w/ 4.30 gears
      __________________________________________________ __


    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      San Antonio, TX
      Posts
      221
      Country Flag: United States
      The blue wire with the female bullet connector goes to the compressor clutch. You should have a safety switch in series along it on the high pressure side. HRA may not have included it with your kit. You need one.

      There should be two wires on there somewhere that connect to the thermostat, mounted on the evaporator housing. The fused red wire goes to the battery positive and there is probably a wire that runs to switched ignition. There will be a ground wire, probably with a ring terminal.

      Looks like the limit switches trigger relays that control the vacuum solenoids. The vacuum solenoids open the defrost door and the floor outlet.

      Looks like he's using the factory switch to trigger a/c mode so you'll probably have compressor in all of the AC modes and on defrost.
      KUL FIR CHICK N: COOL FIRECHICKEN
      '68 Firebird, LS7, 6spd, DSE all around.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      Near Dayton, OH
      Posts
      547
      Quote Originally Posted by KUL FIR CHICK N View Post
      The blue wire with the female bullet connector goes to the compressor clutch. You should have a safety switch in series along it on the high pressure side. HRA may not have included it with your kit. You need one.
      They didn't include one by I did buy a Trinary switch that mounts to my drier. I still need to wire it to my electric fans and the Accel EFI.

      There should be two wires on there somewhere that connect to the thermostat, mounted on the evaporator housing.
      I believe those two wires are the blue wires in the photo above. One end is connected to one of the relays and other end has a female spade connector on it. Then the other blue wire was just taped to that one. It has a female spade on one end and just bare wire that the other. So I was figuring that the wire coming from the relay goes to the thermostat and then the other wire connects to the thermostat and runs out to the compressor/safety switch.

      The fused red wire goes to the battery positive and there is probably a wire that runs to switched ignition. There will be a ground wire, probably with a ring terminal.
      I only have one power wire from what it appears which is the one with a 30A inline fuse. Should this get connected to a switched +12v source instead of battery +? The reason I ask is that if it was hooked to battery + and I forget to turn the HVAC off completely, then the blower motor would continually run on low, draining the battery.
      And your right, I have two grounds with ring terminals. One is for the blower motor and the other is part of the relay wiring harness.

      Thanks for the help!
      Andrew
      1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme FE3X Clone
      EFI455/T56/9" w/ 4.30 gears
      __________________________________________________ __





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