Mr. B's 69 Camaro

[Rb_69camaro]

Once upon a time...



This project started for me 25+ years ago. I have recently rebuilt the original front subframe with new paint and suspension. Chris Alston's Chassisworks tubular control arms, varishock adjustable coilovers, billet alum dropped spindles, sway bar, and bumpsteer set. A 13" 6 piston front big brake kit from Wilwood. A stout 408 LS stroker, gen 3 on engine stand with AFR heads customized by Tony Mamo. Port matched Holley single plane split intake. No carb yet. Tremec TKO600. In the rear, Im currently waiting on a 3 link style rear clip w/ Watts link. Adjustable coilovers. Narrowed 9" housing upgraded with a floater kit & back brace.

That pretty much brings me to where I am now. Waiting on the rear clip so I can proceed with measuring for rims, and so forth. Ive been told the floater kit is the cause of the delay. I ordered a mini tub kit too with that rear clip. Something I could be working on now instead of sitting and waiting(almost 5 months!). Anyways, any thoughts to keep this project moving forward or general advice would be appreciated. I plan to upload photos soon, so you can see the progress ive made. Thx!

B.Attachment 195310Attachment 195314Attachment 195312

[thumper877]

Yeah u gotta love those body guys. There are so many of them that live by ripping people off. I think most people have gone though some of that. Stay with it. If u get it done u will forget that part of it. Car looks pretty decent.

[srode]

Great story, this will be a fun build to follow. Looks like you have a great starting point.

[MTBSully]

Nice! Just about to embark on my first 69 project. What paint did you use on the frame? Looks great!

[Rb_69camaro]

Nice! Just about to embark on my first 69 project. What paint did you use on the frame? Looks great!

Thx. I used a gravity feed gun painting the subframe. After stripping I used an epoxy primer for the first coat and thought I could just leave it at that. It turned from black to a dull gray. So I went back to the paint store for some real black paint to cover the epoxy and some clear coat. Im new to this so it wasn't a seamless process. I spent alot of time re-sanding and re-spraying.

[jaybee]

Cool, looking forward to seeing more!

[srode]

I think you will be better off replacing the whole floor and trunk, maybe frame rails too. Welding up good sheetmetal isn't that hard with some practice on scraps, but filling in the holes you have will be frustrating at best, the metal when it get's to the point in your pictures is so thin it's just going to burn through and make more holes.

[thumper877]

I think you will be better off replacing the whole floor and trunk, maybe frame rails too. Welding up good sheetmetal isn't that hard with some practice on scraps, but filling in the holes you have will be frustrating at best, the metal when it get's to the point in your pictures is so thin it's just going to burn through and make more holes.

Definitely x2

[Alwhite00]

Nice project. I'd cut it out and replace with new metal. You will just be chasing your tail with the pinholes.

[TANKMASTERJ]

Ditto on the replacement of the floor. It will be a better result, easier to weld and you will be much happier. I used AMD floor i think about 450.00 and fitment was pretty good. for rear you can actually order a trunk floor already welded to frame rails and cut for minitubs. I did that from real deal steel in florida. It was pretty easy to get fitted. Your already off to a good start on the frame and bat least the new metal you already have. Might 8 ask have a. New floor and then your car is actually solid.
Jason

[Rb_69camaro]

8 months though.

[srode]

Sweet! Who did that chassis build for you?

[Rb_69camaro]

art morrison.

[Rb_69camaro]

I had quarter panel skins put in 20 years ago, as well as the outer/inner wheel house. I wish I had gone with full rear quarters because theres an ugly seam running across the inside of both quarters. The guy doing the repair overlapped the old and new metal and spot welded them together. Theres also quite a bit of bondo on top of the quarters. This was done because looking at the rear of the car they were not symmetrical. Right now Im having someone put in DSE mini tubs in and again theres fitment issues. Large gaps where the floor, tubs, and wheel house meet on the drivers side. Passenger side looks ok. I believe this is a result of the poorly fitting skins. Im not sure if I should replace the skins now with full quarters or just finish the tub install. Then spray the whole car with epoxy primer to seal and protect it. Then continue with the build and come back to the issues in the rear later. I really want to start driving this car. Ive been storing it for over 25 years. I have nearly everything I need to get it going in my garage. Engine, trans, etc. I have a new rear clip with a 3 link already in.

[NCSU68]

Good luck with the build!

[Rb_69camaro]

Since my last update 3 yrs ago, I decided to fix all the sheet metal issues. Pretty close to moving on from sheet metal work. Or at least pausing on the body work once things are lined up good enough. Later Ill have the gaps perfected. Dont care how the interior looks. I really want to drive this son of a b*tch. I ditched the stock sub frame set up for an Art Morrison one to pair up with the 3 link in the back. With the sub frame connectors its super solid. I dont have brakes yet for the front but I do have brakes for the rear. Mini tubs are in. I have a 408 LS long block(carb'd) on an engine stand. A Tremec 5 speed still in the crate. Im not really sure where to start when I get the car back from the body shop. I want Forgelines. I need headers/exhaust. Front brakes. Plumbing for the brakes. I have no fuel tank/fuel lines. Ive set the bar pretty high with everything so far. So I want quality and to get things done right. Any suggestions?

[Larry Callahan]

Sounds like great progress. I have no suggestions, but I do love the fact that you want to get out and drive it. That can be such a strong “driving” factor. Go out, have fun, and beat the snot out of it.

[jaybee]

Looks like it's going to be a really nice car. It sure sounds like you're going to have to get it on the road in order to stay engaged with the project, and that's OK. If you start driving it while it's partly finished and work on it during winters, that's OK. If you complete the rest of the project with good rather than best of the best of the best, that's a damn site better than selling an unfinished car at a big loss...potentially to someone else who won't finish it.