1,600 pounds and LS power!! Brunton M-spec

[andrewb70]

Correct on all counts!



Odd three bolt flange. I was also leaning toward making the flange work, but am getting differing advise from Brunton. I may contact the company I purchased my Jeep Rubicon drive shaft from. Rubicons do not have slip yokes. The drive shaft itself has a slip section. I think the issue is the CTS-V flange is odd, so an adaptor ($$!) is needed. The Jeeps for instance run a 4 bolt flange.

The trans and diff do appear to be in line, though I am struggling to get accurate measurements. I can adjust driveline angle via motor and trans mounts. The diff is in a fixed position.





Thanks. The diff is not included but the chassis is set up for it. I know about the CTS-Vs ruining these diffs, but keep in mind, this car weighs way less than 1/2 what a Caddy does. Also, the new unit I have has a stamping right on it from Getreg saying "Noise test - OK". My hope is the new diffs are up to the task.

Shaun,

I wouldn't use the off-road style telescoping style driveshaft on a road car. You really need a good driveshaft that will operate smoothly at high speeds. I would give Frank a call at The Driveshaft Shop. Since you are running a CTSV trans and rear end, you would just need a shorter version of his aluminum shaft that he sells for CTSVs.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...hafts/cadillac

The CV joint in the front will basically eliminate any concerns about driveline angles and will also have some travel for any trans and diff movements.

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Shaun,

I wouldn't use the off-road style telescoping style driveshaft on a road car. You really need a good driveshaft that will operate smoothly at high speeds. I would give Frank a call at The Driveshaft Shop. Since you are running a CTSV trans and rear end, you would just need a shorter version of his aluminum shaft that he sells for CTSVs.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...hafts/cadillac

The CV joint in the front will basically eliminate any concerns about driveline angles and will also have some travel for any trans and diff movements.

Andrew

Thanks for the input Andrew.

I questioned wether a telescoping shaft would be able to deal w the RPMs this will face.

I shot off an email to the company you linked. I'm sure they are nice pieces, but the cost of the ones linked is a bit scary. I see they also offer the conversion blocks to change from the 3 bolt to the more typical 4. However, at $149 each (times 2) that isn't necessarily cheaper...

I also shot off an email to Tom Woods. We'll see what I find out. I'm told conversion to a slip yoke is as straight forward as unbolting the flange, and cutting off the alignment dowel. What I read on sources reference converting CTS-V T-56s to F-body style, I was put off by the complexity and cost. But then, maybe most others also sought to convert to the F-bpdy rear shift position. In all honesty doing that would solve two problems for me. I'll check into that option also.

[andrewb70]

Thanks for the input Andrew.

I questioned wether a telescoping shaft would be able to deal w the RPMs this will face.

I shot off an email to the company you linked. I'm sure they are nice pieces, but the cost of the ones linked is a bit scary. I see they also offer the conversion blocks to change from the 3 bolt to the more typical 4. However, at $149 each (times 2) that isn't necessarily cheaper...

I also shot off an email to Tom Woods. We'll see what I find out. I'm told conversion to a slip yoke is as straight forward as unbolting the flange, and cutting off the alignment dowel. What I read on sources reference converting CTS-V T-56s to F-body style, I was put off by the complexity and cost. But then, maybe most others also sought to convert to the F-bpdy rear shift position. In all honesty doing that would solve two problems for me. I'll check into that option also.

Frank is terrible about returning emails. I would pick up the phone and call him. He is usually pretty accessible by phone. The other guy that answers the phone(I forget his name) is very knowledgable as well.

I fear that you don't have an inexpensive solution. I think that the splines on the output shaft of the CTSV trans are not very long and are not suitable for a regular slip yoke.

$900 bucks for a driveshaft with the adapters and CV joint isn't too bad. Here is a more "scary" piece...

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1855

Andrew

[subtlez28]

Frank is terrible about returning emails. I would pick up the phone and call him. He is usually pretty accessible by phone. The other guy that answers the phone(I forget his name) is very knowledgable as well.

I fear that you don't have an inexpensive solution. I think that the splines on the output shaft of the CTSV trans are not very long and are not suitable for a regular slip yoke.

$900 bucks for a driveshaft with the adapters and CV joint isn't too bad. Here is a more "scary" piece...

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1855

Andrew

I have not pulled the flange yet, but I was thinking about your spline engagement point. I guess the existing splines hold the fixed flange, and the slip yoke will not actually do any slipping once installed (IRS), so that should be ok, right?

If I remove the flange, per Brunton's recommendation, they will send me a drive shaft (that I paid for with the kit). So, that is the most $ friendly alternative.

[andrewb70]

I have not pulled the flange yet, but I was thinking about your spline engagement point. I guess the existing splines hold the fixed flange, and the slip yoke will not actually do any slipping once installed (IRS), so that should be ok, right?

If I remove the flange, per Brunton's recommendation, they will send me a drive shaft (that I paid for with the kit). So, that is the most $ friendly alternative.

The slip yoke will move some, but very little. I would say less than 1/16". If Brunton has already tested this, I would go with it. As you said, it is the least expensive solution. What do they do for the diff end of the driveshaft?

Andrew