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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
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      santa rosa calif
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      71
      Country Flag: United States

      when are your brakes to big ?

      so i asked the question on a different thread but not to many responses anyone know the true answer .

      does weight of the car come into factor when choosing your brakes ?

      does wheel and tire size also factor in other then the diameter you can fit inside the rim ?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
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      New Albany IN.
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      I'm not a authority on this by any means but I do think that yes weight should be a factor in brakes. Also the bigger and wider the wheels the more rotating mass you have there for the more work on the brakes. All of that will cause a lot of heat in your brakes.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
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      santa rosa calif
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      hmm having a hard time putting my total question into words . i have noticed most larger american cars have had alot of lock up in turns wondering if that is really caused by to much braking surface .
      lets say like a 3000 lbs car with 17 inch rotors and 6 piston calipers might it be the fact that the 1500 or so lbs on the front rotors isn't enough to allow the brakes to get some slippage thus causing a total lockup .
      not factoring in driver fat foot error .
      hope that helps

    4. #4
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      Mooresville, NC
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      377
      Quote Originally Posted by darkling View Post
      lets say like a 3000 lbs car with 17 inch rotors and 6 piston calipers might it be the fact that the 1500 or so lbs on the front rotors isn't enough to allow the brakes to get some slippage thus causing a total lockup .
      not factoring in driver fat foot error .
      hope that helps
      The friction between the tire and the road is what stops the car, not the brakes. In the case above, you would need a bigger tire or softer compound.
      Marc Battiste

      1969 Camaro
      LY6/T56/12 Bolt

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Enfield, CT
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      423
      Country Flag: United States
      When you can't fit anything bigger!

      '67 GTO - LS3, 4L60E, SC&C AFX Package, KORE3 C6 Z06, Boyds PT-09s

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...7-GTO-LS3-Swap


    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
      Location
      British Columbia
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      Country Flag: Canada
      Quote Originally Posted by CFster View Post
      When you can't fit anything bigger!

      That looks AWESOME !
      Todd
      '14 ZL1, 6 speed and 6.2L of Super Charged Awesome!
      '67 Camaro SS in process. A long, slow, expensive trip...


      How hard can it be...

      Project Obsession
      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ject-Obsession

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Cincinnati, OH
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      331
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      Quote Originally Posted by CFster View Post
      When you can't fit anything bigger!

      Bet those dont stop so well with that brake line and banjo bolt lying on the ground like that...LOL....
      Jim S.
      67 RS
      "driver "

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
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      Fredericksburg, VA.
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      Quote Originally Posted by CFster View Post
      When you can't fit anything bigger!

      Agreed!

      Name:  frontbrake03sm.jpg
Views: 886
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      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Support the RPM Act
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    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
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      Deployed
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      I feel there is no such thing. Obviously you can go bigger than what's needed, but nothing negative about it. Go as big as the wheels will allow and call it a day
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jul 2010
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      Sacramento, CA
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      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      I feel there is no such thing. Obviously you can go bigger than what's needed, but nothing negative about it. Go as big as the wheels will allow and call it a day
      The exact opposite is true. You have a large mass spinning at thousands of revolutions per minute on a larger axis than you originally had. It increases sprung weight, unsprung weight, and decreases steering responsiveness, and has negative effects on the tires traction. Big is heavy, heavy is bad.
      -James

      1974 Z28 SCCA C Prepared
      1990 Firebird NASA CMC
      2005 Mustang GT SCCA F-Street (new for 2015)
      1989 Civic Si SCCA STC

    11. #11
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      Dec 2011
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      santa rosa calif
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      but due to the clamping force of a huge brake kit on a light front end won't it be harder to find the sweet spot between tire traction and lockup . i know pedal feel has alot to do with that . and maybe using a adjustable proportioning moving more of that pressure to the rear might help ?

      i just keep seeing lockup over that over i really just want to solve this before i drop 2k on brakes and find issues

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Posts
      708
      Look at what they use on a new car that stops in a very short distance. Look at an economy car, then drive one, if you haven't recently. My 2012 Honda stops like hell, and has single-piston calipers on not-very-large rotors in front; it has (small) drums in back (they only give you rear discs with the cosmetic options package that includes alloy wheels--you can see the discs through them). The science of effective application is not found in bolting on the biggest and blingiest things you can find.

      By the way, the Honda (Civic) weighs more than my 1963 Falcon; I surely do not need 14-inch rotors to stop as well in the old car...

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      Grapeview, Wa
      Posts
      169
      You only need a rotor large enough to get rid of the heat produced by the brakes during heavy use. Anything larger is extra weight and generally cosmetic. Keep in mind the ubiquitous NASCAR stock car. 15" wheels and just shy of 13" rotors (actually, I think they have a short track setup with 13" rotors nowadays).
      Tad
      '73 Camaro RS in progress.
      L-D 3-link (working on the front end, too), SCP spindles, Wilwood brakes. I'll be working on it for A WHILE!

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
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      Texan Back in Texas!
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      675
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      Quote Originally Posted by TLWiltman View Post
      You only need a rotor large enough to get rid of the heat produced by the brakes during heavy use. Anything larger is extra weight and generally cosmetic. Keep in mind the ubiquitous NASCAR stock car. 15" wheels and just shy of 13" rotors (actually, I think they have a short track setup with 13" rotors nowadays).
      This is true, however they use very thick vented disks to disapate the heat and monster calipers as well. I would actually like to see manufacturers provide NASCAR type brakes with thick disks and overall smaller diameter for those who do not want monster wheels.
      1965 Falcon Hardtop

      However long you think your project will take, double it and you might be halfway right.

      Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...847#post798847

    15. #15
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      Jul 2010
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      Quote Originally Posted by LowFast View Post
      This is true, however they use very thick vented disks to disapate the heat and monster calipers as well. I would actually like to see manufacturers provide NASCAR type brakes with thick disks and overall smaller diameter for those who do not want monster wheels.
      Everyone brings up NASCAR but that is not the series to get brakes from, the cup cars have absolutely terrible brakes. The biggest problem I see is that no one asks the right question here, which is what brake PAD you should run. Pad matters MUCH more than rotor diameter, and caliper piston count. Getting a pad that has the right feel to the drive, in the heat range the driver is used too, is more important than brake size.


      Brian Hobaugh won every single event at Run To The Coast, smoked everyone on the road course, autocross, and speed stop, by a lot. Brian is on bone stock brakes.
      -James

      1974 Z28 SCCA C Prepared
      1990 Firebird NASA CMC
      2005 Mustang GT SCCA F-Street (new for 2015)
      1989 Civic Si SCCA STC

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Quote Originally Posted by SLO_Z28 View Post
      Everyone brings up NASCAR but that is not the series to get brakes from, the cup cars have absolutely terrible brakes. The biggest problem I see is that no one asks the right question here, which is what brake PAD you should run. Pad matters MUCH more than rotor diameter, and caliper piston count. Getting a pad that has the right feel to the drive, in the heat range the driver is used too, is more important than brake size.


      Brian Hobaugh won every single event at Run To The Coast, smoked everyone on the road course, autocross, and speed stop, by a lot. Brian is on bone stock brakes.
      OK, I'll bite, what pads was he running?

      Bob

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Posts
      606
      Quote Originally Posted by a67 View Post
      OK, I'll bite, what pads was he running?

      Bob
      I want to say the Wilwood Polymatrix "E" pads, which are more aggressive than the BP20s but still work pretty well without a ton of heat in them. Don't forget though that the big front tire on that car is also a factor to be considered.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Livermore, California
      Posts
      160
      Country Flag: United States
      I agree that Pads are more important than rotor size diameter, but stickier pads heat the rotors up more than more stock level of pads. If you get more heat in smaller rotors faster, won't you just cook the rotors into oblivion? I think you need enough rotor so that you can keep the heat range in the optimal range of whatever race pad you're running, but not big enough that you get too much cooling.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Lawrenceburg, TN
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      4,098
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      Quote Originally Posted by SLO_Z28 View Post
      Brian Hobaugh won every single event at Run To The Coast, smoked everyone on the road course, autocross, and speed stop, by a lot. Brian is on bone stock brakes.
      yes on in a car that he has drove for more than 25 years, with more than 500Hp and 500Torque, sitting on an 18x12 rim on all four corners, the same wheel setup that Brett runs the ridetech 33 on, a 12 wide rim helps alot when stopping, I noticed a huge difference switching from a 8" rim to a 9.5" rim, the braking stability was huge, along with turn in

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      New Albany IN.
      Posts
      355
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      He could go with 10'' rotors and single piston calipers on all four corners and it could stop great, but those breaks would fail if he ever decided to track his car with those brakes and larger wheels. It depends on his intended use of his car. Do bigger brakes add weight? Yes but that's what's needed for heat dissipation, which helps with reliable consistent braking. Its works the hell out of brakes when people put those 20" wheels on brakes that was meant for a 15" Wheel

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