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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
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      Cincinnati, OH
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      Welding axle tubes

      Is the housing of a GM 12 bolt differential cast steel or cast iron? When welding up the axle tubes can they be migged without special wire?

      Jim S.
      67 RS
      "driver "


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
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      British Columbia
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      I would contact one of the rear diff specialty guys/companies and get a definite clarification . My understanding was that you can't weld to the GM housings and that's why the suspension companies offer the cradle looking set ups that bolt to 12 bolts rather than tabs to weld. Maybe they were just trying to make it easy for guys like me as I am going with the TCI rear 12 bolt set up.

      http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/pdf...CI_pg09-10.pdf
      Todd
      '14 ZL1, 6 speed and 6.2L of Super Charged Awesome!
      '67 Camaro SS in process. A long, slow, expensive trip...


      How hard can it be...

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    3. #3
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      I had my axle housings welded to the pumpkin. I have a 10 bolt, but same as the 12 bolt. The housing is cast iron and the axle tubes are steel. You need someone with some skills! They need to use pure nickel rods to do it. The metal needs to be pre-heated and cooled slowly. Any other rod will look good but not be structurally sound.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
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      ^ What he said, except not all Nickle I used 90% Nickle and stick welded it. To my knowledge MIG is a no go, either TIG or stick with Nickle.

      81 Regal, impersonating a Grand National with a 488 Olds
      Build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ith-a-488-Olds

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2012
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      There was just an episode of Muscle Car on Spike where he modified a 12-bolt. They make everything look so easy. Link below.

      http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/MC2013-07

    6. #6
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      Mar 2007
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      Quote Originally Posted by gotyorgoat View Post
      There was just an episode of Muscle Car on Spike where he modified a 12-bolt. They make everything look so easy. Link below.

      http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/MC2013-07
      Thanks for the link....I was looking for that.
      Jim S.
      67 RS
      "driver "

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
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      999
      Quote Originally Posted by gotyorgoat View Post
      There was just an episode of Muscle Car on Spike where he modified a 12-bolt. They make everything look so easy. Link below.

      http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes/MC2013-07
      That was a very good video. He made it look easy.
      Some times I'm fast sometimes I'm half-fast

    8. #8
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      A well respected guy that builds rear ends told me about the pure nickel requirement. Not sure how important it is going 90% or pure.
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
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      The Piedmont Triad, NC
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      Yeah I was watching it too. They made it look too easy. I've seen a couple of guys at school tig and mig weld housing without problems
      67 LeMans Convertible
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      70 Chevelle 400 4spd
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    10. #10
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      Quote Originally Posted by KnightMare View Post
      Yeah I was watching it too. They made it look too easy. I've seen a couple of guys at school tig and mig weld housing without problems
      As my welding forman said, he would be very surprized that GM would use cast iron over cast steel. Cast iron is pretty weak and brittle for the pumkin.
      Jim S.
      67 RS
      "driver "

    11. #11
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      Aug 2004
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      Quote Originally Posted by Quickboat View Post
      Is the housing of a GM 12 bolt differential cast steel or cast iron?
      I have been told you can find out with a drill.
      If the drill leaves a pile of dust then it is cast iron.
      If the drill leaves actual shavings then it's cast steel.
      Like I said, this is something I have been told and haven't had an opportunity to try it. If somebody can shine some more light on it that would be great.

      Ken
      If there is a hard way to do something, I'll find it!
      My other car is a Vega.

    12. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by Kenova View Post
      I have been told you can find out with a drill.
      If the drill leaves a pile of dust then it is cast iron.
      If the drill leaves actual shavings then it's cast steel.
      Like I said, this is something I have been told and haven't had an opportunity to try it. If somebody can shine some more light on it that would be great.

      Ken
      That is a great idea Ken, I have the brackets I cut off to experiment with...
      Jim S.
      67 RS
      "driver "

    13. #13
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      Dec 2004
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      California
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      A easy way to tell the difference between steel and castiron is the spot check with the TIG and a file. If you spot it quck and file the "spot" after if it files easy its steel. If it doesnt file easy and acts as if it is hardened it is cast. As others have said, HIGH nickel wire with a few pre/post heat cycles. Watch for imperfections, and coldlaping and undercutting. The effects of both are intensified on disimilar metals.

    14. #14
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      I ran the "chip" test and this stuff does chip. But it is cast since when we welded a sample to a steel plate and hammered it to see if it bent or broke, it snapped like cast.
      Jim S.
      67 RS
      "driver "

    15. #15
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      May 2007
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      Mooresville, Indiana
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      I've been researching this topic for over a month and had planned to weld mine in my welding class with high nickel wire. But, we didn't have the correct wire and it was fairly expensive to buy for just doing the rearend. TIG was an option, but I really don't feel comfortable enough yet with TIG. So, I found a local chassis shop that welded up both axles (and touched up my swaybar mounts) for $30. Can't beat that!

      Also, all my credible research showed that 10 and 12 bolt housings are cast steel.

    16. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by tommycomfort View Post
      I've been researching this topic for over a month and had planned to weld mine in my welding class with high nickel wire. But, we didn't have the correct wire and it was fairly expensive to buy for just doing the rearend. TIG was an option, but I really don't feel comfortable enough yet with TIG. So, I found a local chassis shop that welded up both axles (and touched up my swaybar mounts) for $30. Can't beat that!

      Also, all my credible research showed that 10 and 12 bolt housings are cast steel.
      That's what I plan on doing... Or just have moser do it for me when I get a new rear lol
      67 LeMans Convertible
      67 GTO
      69 Camaro Build Thread https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ost-Money-quot
      70 Chevelle 400 4spd
      70 Chevelle

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Walton, NY
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      758
      The local welder that did mine said you could tell by the color of the sparks when grinding on it. He stick welded it.

    18. #18
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      Nov 2006
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      If you weld the tubes to the center you need to pre heat and post heat. Bring the rear end up to heat, weld and then keep heat in it and slowly bring the heat down. We welded my tubes and when we narrowed my housing.

      Name:  2_25_12_009.sized.jpg
Views: 10966
Size:  67.7 KB


      Tig welded with a special rod.
      1972 Nova Ridetech, Forgeline, Falken Tires, Wilwood, Bowler Performance Transmission, Lingenfelter Performance Engineering.

    19. #19
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      Quote Originally Posted by Bad94 View Post
      If you weld the tubes to the center you need to pre heat and post heat. Bring the rear end up to heat, weld and then keep heat in it and slowly bring the heat down. We welded my tubes and when we narrowed my housing.

      Name:  2_25_12_009.sized.jpg
Views: 10966
Size:  67.7 KB


      Tig welded with a special rod.
      You are correct, any shop who would do the job for $30 did a poor job. It may look good visually, but not structurally solid. To do this job right, its a few hours of labor. You need to pre-heat the rear end for penetration, weld it, and slow cool it to prevent the nickel from cracking. I'm pretty darn positive, all GM 10 and 12 bolt housing are CAST IRON not steel.

      It cost me $220 to have my rear end welded. Took the guy about 4 hours to do it. It was wrapped in insulation for a day to cool.


      Read This: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18890
      1970 Camaro/DSE build


      Are you driver enough? Maybe....come on blue!
      https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...71#post1147371

    20. #20
      Join Date
      May 2007
      Location
      Mooresville, Indiana
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      Quote Originally Posted by badazz81z28 View Post
      You are correct, any shop who would do the job for $30 did a poor job. It may look good visually, but not structurally solid. To do this job right, its a few hours of labor.
      Now Rob,
      This isn't my first rodeo and making that statement without more information is just foolish.
      Tom

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