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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States

    1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

    There are a few threads on here that are a take off of the Vox inspired P1800. I am new to Volvo's and was lured to them because of the beautiful lines of the cars as well as the the Vox modern interpretation of the classic. As I started to do some research about the cars 10 months ago there wasn't much info out there about putting a V8 in these cars. Most people had to cut the car up pretty bad to position the engine where it needed to be, behind the suspension.

    Then I ran across some threads from Iamtheonlyreal1 and I was intrigued. Long story short I decided to pick up a good "core" to start with. My 68 had not been driven since the early 90's. The engine would not turn over because of electrical issues. I am in the process of stripping the car. The interior is out with the exception of the dash. The engine, transmission and suspension has been removed from the car. I borrowed a rotisserie from a friend which should make the removal of the undercoating much easier.



    Here are my plans for the car. I have already ordered the front and rear suspension kits from Iamtheonlyreal1 or Swedish Ops. I opted for 14" front brakes with 6 piston calipers up front. The rear end will be an 8.8 from a Ford Explorer. It will be sporting 14" discs with 4 piston calipers to match the front.

    The engine will be and LS. I am not sure if I will go with and LS6, LS3 crate engine or the Cadiliac CTS-V LSA supercharged engine. I am leaning toward the LS6 at this time. Just how much power do you need? The transmission will be an automatic, 4L60E or 700R4. I plan on driving the car on a regular basis and don't want to be stuck in traffic playing with the clutch. I have a T56 6 speed in my classic Mustang now and it is a pain in that situation.

    Where am I at now? As I mention the car is pretty close to being stripped. I need to decide if I want to blast it or dip the car. I know both hasve advantages and disadvantages but I am leaning more toward dipping so that I can be sure all rust is gone.

    I mentioned that I am using an 8.8" Ford Explorer rear end and here is why. The bolt pattern is the same as the front suspension. You can pick up a good core with 31 spline axles, traction lock and disc brakes for $175. I narrowed my rear end by 3" so that it would fit the car. It was actually easier to narrow the rear than I thought it would be. Since the Explorer has a long side and a short side axle I simple pressed out the axle tube, cut it down 3" and pressed it back in. I then went to the wrecking yard and purchased another short side axle. There are a few more steps than that but you get the idea. I have spent another $200bucks or so on wheel bearing, seals and clutch packs to rebuild the track lock. This is a very affordable option when you compare it to a 9" Ford.

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    I have had the car for about a year now and I decided to start a thread on Pro-Touring. I would love to hear some feedback and share the experience with you guys. I will have a couple other posts to get you caught up on the build.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States
    I decided to have the car blasted per the suggestion of my body man. It came back with a bit more damage than I originally thought it would. I got a call from the blaster that he was done. It took a day and a half longer than anticipated. It looks like the last body man did not know the difference between a body hammer and ice pick. The front fender repair was terrible. It warped both panels of the overlap joint. I wonder if it is useable at this point. Pretty frustrated right now.

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    Rust really wasn't bad. A couple places in the passenger front floor. One on the DS floor and some small spots in the wheel wells which will be removed for the mini tub. The trunk only had one small area on the curved area that leads to the gas tank. All of those are pretty easy fixes. I will take care of those repairs.

    I think you are right about the rear quarter panels. I plan on rearching the wheels so I will cut out a square above the body line and blend it into the new arch below the line. I think I will have the bodyman take care of that. That makes my job of mini tubbing the car easier. I no longer have to worry about the wheel well and the connection to the fender. I can cut where I want and replace it with the existing modified wheel well later or just make a custom one. Still have to decide after I get it home.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States
    5 minutes after the tow truck dropped her off at my house i had the grinder and plasma cutter out. i started taking out the inner wheel well to prepare for the mini-tub. I hope to gain about an inch to the inside and about the same or perhaps a little more on the outside. I really don't want large flares on the car. I want to look close to stock but with slightly more bulge to the fender. Here are a few pictures of her.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States
    I picked up the rear and front suspension from the shipper. Swedish Ops did a fantastic job crating everything up. When I opened the box it was well organized and secured.

    I am amazed at the quality of the workmanship of the parts. Welds appear to be good, the powder coat finish looks terrific and all I can say about the brakes is WOW! Freaking awesome!! I took everything out of the boxes and inspected it. No surprises at all. I have a couple extra items on the way still so I won't be able to put in the rear suspension yet. I also new the rear brakes which are on back order at Wilwood.

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    Before I had the car blasted I put the rear suspension. Install took a couple hours and was pretty easy. The most difficult part was putting my 8.8 rear in. I didn't have a helper so it made it a real pain in the rear.

    I did have a small setback on the install. I purchased one of those nice covers for the 8.8 that adds some support to the bearings. Unfortunately the cover doesn't clear the panhard bar and I threw the original away last month while cleaning the garage. I now have to wait for the new one to arrive before I can get the panhard bar bracket welded on.

    When that is done I will be waiting on my rear brakes to arrive. The calipers are on back order at Wilwood. After they come in I will be able to measure for tires and wheels. Her are a couple pictures I took before adjusting the pinion angle. I now have it set a 2 degrees.

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    There are spacers that will be placed under the package tray and on top of the crossmember.

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    I have started doing a little work on the wheels. I still don't have rear brakes or a new rear end cover so I can't setup the panhard bar or measure the rear wheels. I did pull the front wheels off my Mustang to see if 17" wheels fit over the 14" discs. They came very close but touch the caliper slightly. If I used a different brand than Boyd Coddington they may have worked.

    I originally planned on going with 19" wheels but I think I have changed my mind. I like the way my Mustang looks with staggered sized wheels and think the Volco may look better this way as well. I will use 18's in front but stay with the 19's out back.

    My initial measurements on tires look like a 245/35/19 may work with some fender rollin in the rear. I am thinking of doing a slight mini tub on the car to make the rear wheel well's even with the frame rail. If I do that I think I could fit 265 or 275's back there. The final issue I have is with the rear wheel width. Ideally I would like to use a 9" wide wheel but the wheels I want only come in 8" or 10". Mini tub would allow me to use the 10's which would make a bolder statement as well as provide a bit more traction. Lots of things to think about.

    Earlier this week I purchased all the items I need to do the brake plumbing. After consulting with the Wilwood guys I will use a dual master cylinder manual brake setup. I have the master cylinders ordered and think I know what pedal assembly I will be using. It will all be Wilwood components.

    I think I am ready to send the car off to the media blaster but won't have the time to take it there for a week or so. I kind of want to finish the rear end setup before I take it back off the car for blasting. An exercise in patience I guess.

    Here is a picture of the calipers and where the were rubbing.
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    The underside of the car doesn't show any sign of damage. That is what made me so surprised when I had it blasted. Not even evidence of wrinkled sheet metal.

    I started welding in patch panels tonight. My welder kept jamming so I eventually gave up. I will break out my other welder tomorrow and finish up. I still need to use my shrinker stretcher to fabricate some support pieces at the floor and where the upper part of the tub connects to the seat area. Pretty easy to do but just takes time.

    The spot welds are a little ugly right now. A grinder should help me out with that. I also help my other welder will do a better job. In addition to jamming I noticed my welder was running low on gas. How much tank pressure to you guys have when you take it in for a refill?
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    It has been a very busy week so not much to show. I did pick up my new tires on Thursday and finally got my rear brakes from Wilwood. The brakes are14" with 4 piston calipers. This car should stop on a dime!

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    I should have the wheels in next week. I ended up going with Boze Performance wheels. They should look pretty nice. I have 18*8 and 18*9 coming to me.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Texan Back in Texas!
    Posts
    676
    Country Flag: United States
    Very nice start, and great car to start with (I dig the 1800's) Look forward to seeing it all come together.
    1965 Falcon Hardtop

    However long you think your project will take, double it and you might be halfway right.

    Build Thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...847#post798847

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    HILLBILLY HOLLYWOOD, TENNESSEE!!!
    Posts
    2,043
    I like these Volvo threads!
    Mike

    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    www.musclecardeals.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Madill Oklahoma
    Posts
    436
    Country Flag: United States
    Finally decided to come over where builds like this are appreciated, rather than Purist rants about Volvo abuse? LOL

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,607
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
    I like these Volvo threads!
    I agree Mike! These big tire Volvo builds are fun...
    Ron in SoCal
    69 Camaro in progress
    http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=31246

    Used to be known as flash911

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    96
    Country Flag: United States
    looks like it will be pretty awesome, i also noticed the mustang sneak in the picture, i like it
    Brandon
    2003 f250 powerstroke 2/4 drop daily driver
    1979 f250 crew cab on superduty axles
    1947 dodge 5 window coupe


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States

    1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

    Thanks for the warm welcome. I have been lurking on this site for years. There are some serious builds going on over here. I built a 68 Mustang Convertible a couple years ago and wished that I would have done a build thread on it. This will make me do it on the Volvo.

    I have been working on making my mini tub job look better. Trying to blend it my patches a little better. I hope to have that done this weekend. If I have the time I plan on redoing my rear brake lines in stainless. I have the 3/16" line but am waiting for the protective stainless spring/covering to arrive. I likely don't need the covering but it can't hurt having a bit more rock protection.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States

    1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

    The Mustang turned out pretty nice but I still have a little tweaking to do the the SCT chip to improve some drivability issues. If anyone is interested here is a link to an article recent published on the car.
    http://editions.amospublishing.com/A...spx?d=20120518

    I think the Volvo will end up being a more interesting and unusual build.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Rockport, TX
    Posts
    171
    Country Flag: United States
    Even though I personally would never, ever alter the way my car came from the factory I do like like very much what you are doing here. Subscribed. 77tony

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    72
    Country Flag: United States
    Looks like a neat project!
    1969 Camaro. Just bought, starting the build now! :D

    1978 Porsche 911 morphed into a 1973 911RS

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    668
    Country Flag: United States
    Always liked that body style. Should be a cool car!
    John Brown
    1971 Nova - Project Car
    2017 Camaro SS 1LE
    My FQuick Garage

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States
    The wheels finally came in today. I hope to have some time this evening to put them on the car. At that time I will see just how good my measuring was
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States
    Oops. Front tire double post. Here is the rear.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Madill Oklahoma
    Posts
    436
    Country Flag: United States
    Get them on the car.. You have more patience than I do.. LOL

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States

    1968 Volvo project Pure Volvocity

    I am stuck at work waiting for a client to arrive. About 30 minutes ago I could see them shining through the tinted windows of my SUV while sitting at my desk. It was torture!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    291
    Country Flag: Canada
    Wow, I don't think I've ever seen one of those that solid, even in the 80's they were rotten around here. Awesome build!!

    73 Maverick Grabber Project

    My never ending project:
    https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...hlight=grabber

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    515
    Country Flag: United States
    Well I was a little conservative with the wheels on the rear. I don't mind where the outside of the tire is but I have about an extra inch on the inside I should have used up. I think I could have put on 10" wide wheels and about a 295 tire. Oh well.

    The front are really close. I could have done about 1/4" less back spacing there. The car is about an inch high in the back but will settle with more weight in the car. The front is about 2-3" higher than the end rise height. Overall I think they hit the bulls eye!

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