69 GTO Build

[ekmxryda]

What power range are you expecting with the new build?

I am thinking 500HP at the wheel is possible with the combo I have in mind. Torque around 450?
Would love to get feedback on my thoughts of a lighter than stock flywheel, maybe 18 lbs?
I know that I would sacrifice some street manners but thats ok with me, it won't be a daily driver and I can't picture my wife wanting to drive it ever (she is happy with her Honda Fit).



Got the heads on last night, more slow progress.
Need to order LS3 rocker arms, more gaskets, harmonic balancer, intake ...

[ekmxryda]

Eric wow, looking good! I'm thinking of one of those trunion kits too, it looks like anice set up.

Thanks Wayne,
Yeah I want to buy another trunnion kit for the LQ4 in my truck, it has around 160,000 and the rocker noise is getting louder.

[the dan]

I cant wait to actually build my LS. the blower may not be exactly what i am looking for on the track but it will definitely move the hunk of crap out of the way for sure.

So i did the texas speed set up as well. it was a texas profile COMP grind (not sure who actually ground yours) but i will say one thing. if you got the texas speed valve springs, through them in the garbage now before you loose one. I have 1800 miles on mine and one let go. research with a local engine builder (billy the kid) said they outsourced to PRC (PCR? i dont remember the exact name) to china.

not sure if they are or not, just giving you the heads up.

[the dan]

Also if you don't care about street manners, go with a twin disc. I think im close to the max power my Spec stage 4 puck clutch will hold. (around 600hp)

[ekmxryda]

Hey Dan, thanks for the warning on the PRC valve springs I will check them out. Bummer yours let go, hope you didn't suffer too much damage. My cam is not a super high lift but if the springs are junk I will replace them.
Good to know about the clutch as well. I don't plan on being nice to it, so if the clutch can handle the abuse and not go up in smoke thats a good thing!

My Dad and I used to do a few local SCCA autocross events, maybe you can test the truck out in one of those. Will be fun to surprise people with your truck, I think it should do well. Plus it will show you what you need to fix.

Yeah my cam was made by Texas Speed on their new machine, cool to see them growing in this crappy economy!

Here is a good valve spring quote from the guys at Comp Cams from an article on LSXTV.com
http://www.lsxtv.com/tech-stories/en...rain-upgrades/
"Ryan Pritcher from COMP Cams had a whole lot of input on camshaft selection as well. “Stockish cathedral port heads usually like lifts in the .580 to .600 range, but the L92 style rectangular port heads like to be just a little over .600 to about .625. You really have to look at what kind of cylinder head you are using, especially if you have a factory casting. Compare that to a good stock-style head for the GenI small block like the Vortech heads; they were capped off around .525 even with beehive valve springs. The LS heads are a 15 degree head, and they really like to move some air and breathe a lot,” he explains. “When I’m setting someone up with a new cam package, I want them to know it’s best if you do new valve springs and pushrods at the same time,” Pritcher adds. “If the lift is under .600 then we can do a beehive spring and it will be a drop-in that can use the factory locks and retainers. If the lift cracks over the .600 mark, they really need to get set up with a dual valve-spring kit with some full-steel retainers. LS guys really seem to understand that valve springs are just a necessity when doing a cam swap and they know that if they don’t, it can get really messy.”

[the dan]

Exactly. I'm .602 or .605 iirc, so I'm on the boarder with my behives. When the motor comes out next year I'll probably change the heads and maybe make my own intake, but the valve springs will go double for sure. Still debating on what I want for my end motor. All depends on how it does at the track

[64G-lark]

Nice build. Don't know how I missed this. I will be watching now.

[ekmxryda]

Still debating on what I want for my end motor. All depends on how it does at the track

You should save up for the new DOHC 32 valve Mercury heads coming out soon!
http://www.enginelabs.com/news/mercu...for-ls-engine/

[ekmxryda]

Nice build. Don't know how I missed this. I will be watching now.

Thanks Mark, nice to have another A body friend! I have been jealous of your rust free car for a long time.

Have been planning out more details and ordering more parts lately.
I want to try and use the factory oil cooler hard lines that came mounted on the LQ9 truck oil pan. Then upgrade the flex lines and use AN fittings.

[ekmxryda]

Found some dimensions and good side view photo of a 2002 F-Body Camaro oil pan. Scaled the photo then brought it in to Solidworks to make a 1 to 1 drawing, printed it up, spray mounted to some cardboard then mounted it to the block. Was nice to confirm clearances before ordering.

[ekmxryda]

Trunion kit installed with new LS3 rockers.



Kept it simple and on the cheap side with a SFI approved RAM flywheel and clutch. I was undecided between high end Centerforce dual disk and the factory ZR1 clutch.
Maybe I will upgrade later. I need to just get this on the road, even my Dad who is 84 was giving me crap for not going with a dual disk clutch!
http://store.katechengines.com/ls9x-...-z06-p184.aspx




Bowler slave cylinder - throwout bearing with -4 lines and bleeder
http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/490...ow-out-bearing




Low mount Alternator bracket from Dirty Dingo, have to tap the truck blocks.
Also looking into running Sanden SD7 AC compressor low on passengers side.
http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/pages...Dpath=3&pID=26

[Centerforce]

I am thinking 500HP at the wheel is possible with the combo I have in mind. Torque around 450?
Would love to get feedback on my thoughts of a lighter than stock flywheel, maybe 18 lbs?
I know that I would sacrifice some street manners but thats ok with me, it won't be a daily driver and I can't picture my wife wanting to drive it ever (she is happy with her Honda Fit).

An 18 lb flywheel is actually not too aggressive for most people. The lightened steel units like the ones we offer do quite well on the street, especially with torque; its usually once you go to the aluminum, single-digit-weight ones that car loses its street manners.

[ekmxryda]

An 18 lb flywheel is actually not too aggressive for most people. The lightened steel units like the ones we offer do quite well on the street, especially with torque; its usually once you go to the aluminum, single-digit-weight ones that car loses its street manners.

Thanks for the info, it will be something to experiment with once it is roadworthy.

Not much to report in the progress report, taking on too many rush CAD jobs doesn't leave me much time for the GTO.

But I did just receive my new Mark Williams chromoly driveshaft! Very nice product, nice guys and super helpful on the phone.

Both ends of the drive-line angles were a little under 2 degrees.

[Josh@Ridetech]

Awesome build. Definitely keep it up!!

[ekmxryda]

Thanks Josh,
Got a steel 1 7/8" long tube header kit from Jegs. Plan on getting them Ceramic coated when finished welding.

[ekmxryda]

Still busy with other jobs but was able to get started on headers.
Drivers side tack welded in place, need to pull it apart and finish tig welding each seam. The foil tape holds well for test fits. 30 hours to get this far and I think other side will be quicker without the steering shaft in the way, I left about 3/4" clearance between the two.



Once the headers are done I will be looking into some 3" 304 SS tubing to run the exhaust.
This company seems to have everything I need. Let me know if you guys have other places I should look at.

http://www.mandrelbends.com/tube-pip...ight-tube.html

[ekmxryda]

Was able to finish up Headers this weekend, even with a Labor Day party thrown in there!
If I were to do another one, and for those that are contemplating building a set, I would not buy the Jegs kit again, not a fan of the aluminized tubing. Was difficult to get it clean enough to tig weld.
Lots of double and triple checking positions and clearances before tack welding while installed on the car.



After welding the four tubes together right before the collector and at the flange, headers come back out then I welded in the center plug and a merge spike. Headers bolted in again to locate collector, tack welded, then pulled out to finish weld.




Here is what was left over.



Nice to have the old heads as a fixture to finish welding and not worry about warping the flange.



Swapped the Mig nozzle for a Tig cup so I could get in to some tight spots.







Was thinking about using Jet Hot for the ceramic coating, any suggestions?

[ekmxryda]

Sadly not much progress over the last few months, too many other things took priority. Was able to order up a small AC kit from Southern Air that fit better with my limited space after the firewall and trans tunnel mods I did, and I'll still have room for the roll cage. Will need to figure out a 90 degree fitting on the heater core lines to follow the AC lines out the kick panel vent.











http://www.southernrods.com/a-c-and-...no-vacuum.html

[Fastmonty]

Eric,

I hear you... so, I had the same issue, where the radius was too tight for bending the heater hose and/or the linear length was too small to add a 90 degree fitting with straight hose in between the output and 90 degree... sooooo, I ended up sourcing a few random shaped molded heater hoses, which you can find on Summit or Jegs. some with 90 degree ends and some as 180's so you can cut the perfect angle you need. Worked great!

Happy New Year.

Mike

[Michaels 69]

Nice job on GTO.