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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      128

      replacing floor pans???

      I'm about to start replacing the for pans on my 2nd gen firebird , just wanted to ask how I should go about mounting it in such a way to prevent twisting and being able to easily access them. I planned on a rotisserie but found out that that cab twist the body. Suggestions?



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Melbourne, FL
      Posts
      1,046
      Country Flag: United States
      I've seen some folks weld in temp bracing to prevent twisting.
      67 Firebird Convert 455 +.060 Johnny Winters TH400 74cc KRE d-port flowed @ 310 cfm heads piston dished 16cc H-beam rods Comp Cam 305-AH-8 cam 108* LSA 253/260 @.050 duration .577/.594 lift w/1.65 rockers Ford 9" 3.55 Detroit Locker M/T Sportsman Radials 31x18x15 on Convo Pro 15x15s

      Honest dad that 455 on the side of the block is a serial number

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Posts
      1,872
      assuming one piece floor... and a coup.. you hould level it out an if you paranoid you can put bars in the door opening.. but from what i hear its no needed..
      My car i did not brace when i put a 1 piece floor in.. and had no problems.
      From a place you will not see comes a sound you will not hear....

      67 Camaro In progress

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Tap-67-camaro

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2011
      Location
      Planit Oahu, Hawaii if you don't belive me check shipping prices
      Posts
      255
      Country Flag: United States
      I have seen many different ways with varying results on all.
      the way that I like, is with a "frame table" get the body alignment specs. secure the body to the table with turn buckles that have threaded rod of 1/2"-3/4" and some inner body supports that are adjustable take lots of measurements, wright them on the body and on a diagram, and take lots of pick's. have fun cutting and replacing. spend lots of time with the tape measure, during remove, and install. figure it will take about 40-80 man hours, so if your doing at home it will take a month or two.
      and in the end you will have great results.

      have fun!!!

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      128
      It is a coupe, and I can't find a one piece floor for the year its a 78, their are pass and driver side pans that go front to back. So what ill have to do it is one side at a time and leave the trans tunnel mostly intact, their are a couple parts that need some patching but not to bad.

      But as far as the frame table goes,
      Where would I have the supports to the body?

      I can't use the pinch where the floor and rocker meet, because that's what's being replaced. The worst part of the rust is in the pass side front area wear the subframe mounts so and needs to be fixed so I can't so it with the sub holding it up either.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      128
      And yes I will have fun! Lol

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      128
      Do you think bracing the inside and using a rotisserie would be ok it would be a Hell of a lot easier to work on lol

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Valencia, CA
      Posts
      99
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a 75 Formula 400 that needs full floorpan replacement- welding bracing inside the shell will help keep it from twisting, and allow you to mount it on a rotisserie to replace the floorpans more easily. In most cases the trans/drivetrain tunnel is still solid, so why cut it out when it's still good? You should cut out and weld in the full-length LH and RH floorpans one side at a time anyways, which will minimize body twisting.

      Geno

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2011
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      128
      Their is a crack in the trans tunnel lol seriously check out this pic. its in between the center counsel mounts and the shifter. That's what needs to be patched but im going to have to do some trans tunnel fab so I can mount a t56 my car was auto stock. And the engine will be mounted a little further back
      But its th crack that worries though for sure lol
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