Wilwood Caliper Alignment

[jpgolf14]

I found a source that indicated 96 ft lbs. I believe the spec on the bolt is M12x1.75x54 (according to Nalley Chevrolet Parts diagrams). They are Torx-head capscrew-type....

Here's the source of my concern:

http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/p...roducts_id/267

They are probably more concerned about the thread locker than the actual integrity of the bolt. The specs for the bolts are:



grade 8.8 - 65 ft-lbs
grade 10.9 - 93 ft-lbs
grade 12.9 - 108 ft-lbs

The grade should be marked on the bolt. GM usually uses 10.9 IIRC. So if that is the case, there is no problem re-using the bolt. Just make sure you use thread locker and follow the instructions. Honestly I would lock wire them. But I'm crazy about lock wire.

[sjaroslo]

Thanks for the info. I do admit that I had fun doing the locking wire on my rotor, but that was enough for me. Seeing as how they were less than $5 per at Chevy, I picked up some new ones, so I'll go that route and feel OK about the situation (they come with thread-locker on them from GM).

[sjaroslo]

The bolts are in fact stamped 10.9, thanks!

[sjaroslo]

Well, I'm hoping that we can put this thread to rest today! My many thanks to the folks who contributed, especially to Jay from the GMR, as I just wrapped up the retrofit of the ABS sensor bracket, reassembled the rotor and caliper, and darned if those pads didn't just slide right in there as if they were made to fit! :-) I am thinking of renaming my project the "Two Steps Backward, One Step Forward Camaro," but for now, I'm pretty happy that the mechanical assembly of the front discs seems to be a wrap. I have a few pictures on my camera that I'll post later but for now, it is on to the next item on the long list (although I still need to figure out what the best length, routing and combination of hose end angles is going to be to for the hydraulic line connection from the frame to the caliper). Thanks again, everyone.

[sjaroslo]

As promised, here are a few pix from the weekend work. First, the hub is successfully removed (which involved unbolting and dropping the lower ball joint in order to get clearance):


Here is the spacer going in (I trimmed off the part that actually held the speed sensor--which entailed its own silly stories of Dremels Gone Bad, cheap Chinese junk from Harbor Freight and eventual Redemption):


Such a simple fix that made all of the difference:


Success! Now on to the next item of the 3000 remaining to do: