Brake Line Flare Tool Deformation

[glr0212]

Does any one else have this problem? I'm using the mastercool tool and the die will deform the brake tube to the point the nut will not seat.



I have to go back and flip the die around and put the tube back in the die and use a vise to form the tube back into round.

Am I squeezing the die too tight in the flare tool? Did using Stainless line in the die ruin it?

[Apogee]

I haven't had any issues like that with our Mastercool...do you have any pictures?

Tobin
KORE3

[70 Chevelle]

If I remember correctly another member was having a similar issue. A few of the ribs inside one of the dies were chipped allowing the tube to expand within the die.

[glr0212]

Thanks for the reply guys. I'll take a couple of pics tonight of the tube and the die.

Essentially the tubing becomes slightly out of round. Its like the die isn't a perfect circle and will allow the tubing to deform inside the die but only up near the flare.

I guess I should contact Mastercool and see if they will swap out the die?

Tobin, Do you use your Mastercool to flare stainless line? Any problems?

[Apogee]

I have used it to flare annealed stainless tubing, but never had any issues. I don't personally enjoy working with stainless that much due to sealing issues with steel fittings, so most of what I do uses either steel Bundy or Cu/Ni tubing if I have any say in the matter.

Tobin
KORE3

[glr0212]

Pictures. Die looks damaged near the top. Hopefully you can see the oblong shape of the tube.
So consensus is bad/damaged die?

[glr0212]

any follow up thoughts?

[70 Chevelle]

Hard to tell from the pic but it looks as if the top rib is cracked.

[MonzaRacer]

OK for the record I "sight" at an angle and leave tubing even with inside if the bevel at opening of die. ALSO I use a file, I do a little cleanup on the tubing after cutting, just a tiny bevel AND I found that if you use the tail of the file, and ream the inside ofthe tubing them touch up the face I have much better luck AND have never broken the nipple off the push adapter. Also for those who need to know, I am a Master Tech with a local Midas shop and so LOTS of brake line. I have had my flaring kit since 09.
Also would a youtube movie or pics help on my tips? ALSO just push till it stops. Overpressure will flaten it out a lot.
One of the biggest issues IS too much tube stick out of the tubing. Been thinking of making a set of tubing stop plates for the tool so as to make it easier to NOT get too much length sticking out.

[snappytravis]

My only thought is to possibly order another die? From mastercool, If you think that will fix the problem you should be able to get just that individual part,

[MonzaRacer]

Its not the die. It is the combination of overly extended stick out on tubing, imporper prep of tubing engs and try to "force" the fold tighter.
ake a fine file, take the "lip" the cutter makes on tubing/ Use the "rat tail" to "open" the tubing end then file the end parallel and smooth.
If you see the bevel on the big opening, bring the line only to the lower, smaller diameter part of the bevel, use a file to clean up the lines end, and you will get a better push and cleaner flare.
I use my flaring tool nearly weekly, I am redong lines on a Chrysler Sebring right now. With proper prep the unit works like a dream, and you rarely get a bad flare.
I am 90% sure(pics little blurry) prep is the issue over a damaged die.
And if anyone wants the BluePoint/Snap On Number for parts, let me know my tool was bought from Snap On under Blue Point brand.
Oh and dont drop the case, tabs will break off hehe.
Ill try to get some pics of proper tubing prep. I am working on a tool design to help make ends clean for flaring with any tool.
Can you flare other tubing with no issue, ie only that die causing issue? I used to get bad flares with lack of prep.

[MonzaRacer]

OHHHHHHH oh oh oh your having issues with the way it clamps to the tubing, just spin the nut upusing a little force, maybe a wrench. being stiff IS normal AND actually the idea is pretty smalrt, if you leave tubing completely smooth it can lock with rust/dirt easier. The clench the die makes on the tubing can help keep it from sticking. One small hint, antiseize behind the flare, just a tiny bit can make it easier to slide nut up. IF your nut is so tight it wont turn perhaps your trying to clamp it too hard. With a die as long at the Mastercool it doesnt really take as much force as older flaring bridges. Notice hoe long the crimp area is on the die, for good reason.
Good luck, guess I need to get my video done.

[MonzaRacer]

OHHHHHHH oh oh oh your having issues with the way it clamps to the tubing, just spin the nut upusing a little force, maybe a wrench. being stiff IS normal AND actually the idea is pretty smalrt, if you leave tubing completely smooth it can lock with rust/dirt easier. The clench the die makes on the tubing can help keep it from sticking. One small hint, antiseize behind the flare, just a tiny bit can make it easier to slide nut up. IF your nut is so tight it wont turn perhaps your trying to clamp it too hard. With a die as long at the Mastercool it doesnt really take as much force as older flaring bridges. Notice hoe long the crimp area is on the die, for good reason.
Good luck, guess I need to get my video done.
Oh yeah some scotch brite or 320 grit emery cloth can also smooth any outer burrs also, might help.