How much lowering block is TOO much?

[GeoffP]

My car (68 Camaro) currently has the complete Hotchkis TVS. I bought mine before Hotchkis came out with the kits that offer lower ride height choices so I was locked into the 2" front 1.5 rear drop. I am considering installing 1.5" cast steel lowering blocks to avoid the cost of buying new leaf springs. The blocks I've found seem to be a nice set and have built in pinion angle correction. Even so, I'm torn because I don't want to introduce new problems (like wheel hop). So is 1.5" too much block? I really can't afford new springs due to my LS1 engine build along with the Run to the Old South being my deadline to have everything done. I have to pick and choose what I can afford and get done in that amount of time. Any opinions or suggestions are appreciated.



Thanks!

[Flash68]

My car had 2" blocks in the rear when I got it, but people I trust told me they'd recommend no more than 1" so I switched. No science behind it, but these were from people who do know what they're talking about. And I could live with the 1" loss of stance.

[David Pozzi]

1" of spacer is generally max but I wouldn't say it's a hard & fast rule, just generally accepted. Try the 1.5" spacer & see how it works, it'll probably be fine. Don't use any rubber or poly spring pads.

[Rod]

As noted above from the 2 Davids, I would go no larger than than the 1.5 you have selected (you might need a 2 degree wedge for pitch correction) I would go 1 inch and for complete support and reduced axle tube strain from the u-bolts, I would use the DSE u-bolt spacer kit

[MyFriendScott]

I hear ya on the 1.5" drop not being enough to get the P/T look. I installed the same drop spring and ended up adding a 3/4" block a few weeks later. I swapped out the mono-leaf 10-bolt to a multi-leaf 12-bolt axle at the same time. The added benefit is the spring perches on the axle are taller and the lowering block isn't so tall that it places the leafs outside of the perches. If you're running a mono-leaf, the 1.5" block will definitely place the leaf outside of the spring perch. That's something I would avoid.

[musclecarmatt]

i got 1 inch of lowering block under my car with 2 inch drop DSE springs....havent had no issues far as driveability or traction issues....

[GeoffP]

The blocks I'm looking at already have pinion angle correction. I didn't want to use an aluminum block because I have seen the locating nub break off on aluminum blocks. The cast steel (probably cast iron) blocks should give a little more strength in that area. Thanks for the info and input guys!

Wouldn't it be nice if Hotchkis had a trade-in/trade-up program??? (Hint, hint Hotchkis!)

[DButler]

I would possibly be interested in you 1.5" lowering leaf springs. I have mono on mine now but would like to go multi. I alos and looking to do away with y lowering blocks and the 1.5" drop would almost be perfect for me. PM me if interested in selling.

[1360]

The off road community uses "zero rates"...which are essentially a 1" block that bolts to the leaf pack via the spring pin.

A little more stable style of block, but has no pinion correction.....

Good luck.

[MadBill]

The main problem with lowering blocks is the 'leverage' they exert on the springs. The taller the block, the greater the axle torque and the softer the spring (e.g. monoleaf) the more wind up. Raising the front spring eye in the pocket as much as possible helps geometry and lowers the car..

[GeoffP]

Thanks for the info guys.

DButler - in order to make it worthwhile, I would have to sell my springs for nearly the price of a new pair to help cover the difference. I can buy the better quality blocks I found for $35 for the pair so I really don't have the motivation to swap springs. However, feel free to make me an offer - you might change my mind. I haven't ordered the blocks yet.

[GeoffP]

I should mention the best price I could find on the Hotchkis springs was $490 and Detroit Speed has their 3" springs for $385.