Chevelle help/advice?

[payne]

First off, let me introduce myself...

Im a LS1 swapper, but in a little different light. Here is my current project:



Its a 1993 RX7 with a LS1/t56 combo... at 2800lbs and ~350rwhp it should easily be a 11sec car (I also have a cam and N20 kit not in it yet to dip down into the 10s) as well as a wicked open track car. Will be 1+Gs laterally. Shes running and driving now, with just loose ends left to wrap up before I head to the California ref to try and get it smog legal (a hellacious project to meet CARB standards, btw)

Now for my questions, I have always loved chevelles and think I have found a good one to do another LS1 swap, but for more of a crusier this time. Im thinking a 6.0 or 5.3 with no poly in the car, not harsh spring rates, and a big stereo.

The big question is what should I be looking for when I look for one?

I have found this one:







http://www.norcal-ls1.com/multimedia...MG2413-med.jpg

"1970 Chevelle, new Dark Green Metallic Paint, with Cowl Hood. Car has been lowered. 10 Bolt Posi rearend (Brand New). Has disc brakes. All New Interior. All the chrome on the car is either brand new, or has been freshly dipped, including bumpers. 17" Foose Wheels. Flowmaster exhaust. 3 speed (Three on the Tree), with inline 6 cylinder. Car has 90k original miles, motor has all new gaskets and tune up. Has Billet Steering wheel. Cd Player, gauges, 6x9, alarm. Smoked glass, everything works and runs perfect."

I took a look at the car - its straight, clean, and looks to be prettymuch rust free. There was a little bit near the passenger trunk support, and the passenger lower quarter was replaced with new sheet metal.

It does have some electric gremlins - brights dont work, one turn signal is out, etc...


Now for the questions:

1. What do you think this car is worth?
2. What is a clean slant 6 and 3 speed worth?
3. What does an LS1/5.3/6.0 swap cost on top of the motor, for a basic, cruiser swap? I assume it can be done for under $3000?
***4. What do I need to look for on a 70 chevelle, to look for rust, frame damage, stuff that will bite me in the ass later...
5. Is there an easy way to measure if the frame is straight? Anyone have the sheet with dimensions that I can plum bob
6. I have a set of rear LS1 disks, how hard/$$$ is it to mount those to the 10 bolt? Will that be okay with stock disks up front?

[TUBED]

To answer question #4, look at the lower rear window corners from inside the trunk on each side. If the seam where the rear window panel meets the quarter panel on each side is solid and the corners don't have any signs of rust or previous repair ie... bondo oozing through any holes from rust you can bank on the car being a solid ride. The rear window is what allows water in once the the seal lets go from either being hard with age or body flex through the years. The entry of water in this area kills three areas in the 68-72 Chevelles: the trunk pan, quarter panel, and sometimes only under the rear seat area.Check this out and you'll be able to tell how solid the car was before it was painted. Thanks

[69boo307]

Open the trunk and stick your hand up behind where the hinges are and feel around under the corners of the rear window looking for rust or crappy repair jobs. Check the rocker panels behind the tires... basically what TUBED said.

I wouldn't worry too much about the electric gremlins, as you'll likely have to re-wire the entire car anyway to do the LS1 swap right and replace the fuse box and everything. I see that car has the sweep-style speedo in the dash. That sucks... you'll probably want to make up a custom dash panel with some nice guages .

Judging only by the photos you posted, it looks like a good solid car.

[BADVELLE]

Look at the #2 frame mount (at bottom of firewall), a-bodies will rust out on the frame in this area, can be pretty bad in some cases. Nothing that can't be repaired, however, you may not want to mess with it. If the underside has been caked with undercoating, stay away.

[69boo307]

1. What do you think this car is worth?
2. What is a clean slant 6 and 3 speed worth?
3. What does an LS1/5.3/6.0 swap cost on top of the motor, for a basic, cruiser swap? I assume it can be done for under $3000?
***4. What do I need to look for on a 70 chevelle, to look for rust, frame damage, stuff that will bite me in the ass later...
5. Is there an easy way to measure if the frame is straight? Anyone have the sheet with dimensions that I can plum bob
6. I have a set of rear LS1 disks, how hard/$$$ is it to mount those to the 10 bolt? Will that be okay with stock disks up front?

I didn't see the questions to start with

1) Hard to say there without checking out the car in person.
2) Not much. And the 'slant' 6 is a chrysler engine, not chevy. chevy
is just a straight 6.
3) you'll be hard pressed to do the swap for $3k. You can get the motor and trans for that, but it's all the other stuff to make it work that's going to bite you in the wallet. I'd plan on $5k at least.
4) answered that one in the previous post
5)The ls1 rear disks won't bolt right up to the stock 10-bolt. If you get some LT1 f-body disks though, they will bolt up fairly easily. You don't want the bigger rear brakes though with stock front disks. Easiest thing to do is just buy a baer kit for a driver/cruiser, about $1000 Cheaper is doing a 'grassroots' style conversion and using C5 vette fronts and lt1 rears. Somewhat labor intensive though and requires some custom made parts. Or you could just rebuild the stock brake setup if it's already a factory disc car. That would be fine for just cruising and daily type driving.

[deadcarny]

the ends of the 1/4s above the bumpers. get a flashlight and stick your head in the trunk looking back at these areas and see how they look. most of the 70-72's I have seen rust very badl there from piss-poor factory fillwork