First Gen ball joints

[DButler]

Ok I have 67 camaro that i just replaced shocks with qa1 adjustable, I have hotchkis lowering springs, stock control arms has been rebuilt with polyurethane bushings a few years ago. (I hate the squeaking that make what is the best way to grease these and what type). I have hotchkis big sway bar, with sweet mfg 12:1 ratio steering box. I am looking to upgrade ball joints for now. I want new control arms but funds just don't allow for these right now. My question is what type of ball joints to run as I am running stock style now and would I be better in running a tall ball joint and what are the benefits of this?

[BMR Sales]

Ok I have 67 camaro that i just replaced shocks with qa1 adjustable, I have hotchkis lowering springs, stock control arms has been rebuilt with polyurethane bushings a few years ago. (I hate the squeaking that make what is the best way to grease these and what type).

With poly bushings you need to use a synthetic lubricant grease which last longer & outperform conventional petroleum-based greases. There is more info on this product available at our website:


http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=852

I am looking to upgrade ball joints for now. I want new control arms but funds just don't allow for these right now. My question is what type of ball joints to run as I am running stock style now and would I be better in running a tall ball joint and what are the benefits of this?

Most people with stock subframes do the Gulstrand mod first and although the G-mod is free, the tall ball joint is much simpler & more beneficial and can be done for a reasonable cost.

We mapped the camber curve of the G-mod vs. Tall ball joint vs. Tall spindle & tall ball joint. We found that Tall Ball Joint gives a little better camber curve than the G-mod does & about .2-.3 degrees more negative camber per 1/2" of compression.

During our test against the Tall Spindle we assumed a 25" tall tire with a 6" frame height. The tall ball joint was tested against an AFX spindle & the camber curve remained similar until the bump reached 1.5" from static. At that point the curve became a little more aggressive, gaining -.3 at 1.5" compression, -.4 at 2", -.5 at 2.5", and -.6 at 3" over the tall ball joint.

These numbers are better & although the tall spindle would be the ideal choice the “bang-for-the-buck” value of the tall ball joints cannot be discounted. In a nutshell it is our opinion that for the average enthusiast the tall ball joint setup improves the camber curve sufficiently for most driving requirements.

The tall ball joints will definitely make a vast improvement to your car. It offers a better camber curve, increased positive caster capability, and a lowered CG which is what we are all looking for.

Your build recipe will accomplish all of that and at minimal cost. We have also re-designed our 1st Gen F-Body A-arms with increased positive caster & they will require less shim stack to achieve proper camber settings on lowered vehicles. We added 2 degrees of caster to the lower A-arm & 2 degrees on the upper.

The equal split of caster between the upper & lower arms keeps the wheel properly centered in the wheel well and allows plenty of positive caster without a lot of staggered shims.

[DButler]

Who makes a decent set of ball joints? So you recommend while changing goin to tall correct? I know my car will need to be realigned are there any specs I should tell them to align the car too?

[DButler]

Also I didn't see a spot to grease the control arms and the link is for a grease gun. Do I need spray grease to spray on bushings?

[MyFriendScott]

Take your pick of Proforged and Howe for tall B/J's.

[Proforged]

Take your pick of Proforged and Howe for tall B/J's.

Thanks for the mention!