Optima Yellow Top keeps draining??

[gmachinz]

I'm willing to go out on a limb and say maybe 1 in 10 complaints about a bad battery actually turn out to be the battery. Usually it's a wiring problem like the fusible links if equipped, ignition switch, loose connections, corrosion, inadequate charging system, etc. Then, when you add on aftermarket systems, it can get real complicated. One issue to be carefull regarding any side post battery is the length of the stud used to attach the cable. If it is long enough to touch the back of the battery terminal on the positive side, it can short out the cells inside and cause premature failure. This was a memo I recieved from Johnson Controls who manufacture most of the aftermarket replacement batteries for automotive stores, shops, etc. -Jabin

[yody]

I wonder about something. You said it is a one-wire? You do realize that the one-wires while they are self-exciting, do not have the ability to provide a load-sensing circuit to allow the regulator to pass more current to your accessories? Otherwords, the alternator will only charge the battery at a rate of about 15-20 amps @ idle. The rest goes to your accessories but until you have reached a specific RPM range, the alternator will not up the amperage. Example: let's say the amperage output is 60 @ idle. Now, add up the current draw of all your accessories that are hot with ignition on (MSD box, electric fans, headlights, stereo amplifiers, etc.) If they add up to more than 60, you are in trouble, unless you keep the RPM above the "exciting" range which can be a PITA in traffic or at idle. Sticking with the three wire CS design and re-wiring the system to read amperage draw through the voltage sensing circuitry is the best way to go. I have no problems with optima batteries and I stay clear of one-wire alternators. Call Mark at Mad Electrical (559-539-7128) and he'll tell you what he thinks of one-wire alternators. I install modified CS GM alternators up to 200 amps and even with my standard 140-amp versions, never any drain issues. Also, a digital multimeter can be too sensitive when it comes to finding an amp draw. I have better success using a test light as a bridge between the neg. post and neg. cable-if it lights, you have a drain. I had a stupid draw (3 amps) that would kill my battery after only three days. Turns out my +12v wire lead to the heated side of my O2 sensor was wired direct instead of key on only-oops. -Jabin

So are you saying that a regular type alternator will up the amperage if you draw more than it is putting out at idle? I thought that alternators could only put out X amount of amps at idle, i don't see how the 2 are any differnet? They both put out X amount of power at idle, and increase when you hit the gas. I had the multimeter on miliamps...DUH! I had the positive plug in the wrong recepticle. Turns out I only have a .03 amp draw. So i had autozone charge hte battery, it was so hot after they charged it I could barely hold it!! it was like 160 degrees!! BUt it sure did charge it good, I believe it had like 13.2 volts. Kragens charger wasn't good enough. Also I called optima and they said ALL their batteries can be charged just like any other battery. THat the charging in series thing is a last resort if a battery won't take a charge, but is definetly not required.

[streetk14]

Yody, glad to hear that you didn't actually have a 2 amp draw. A 30 milliamp draw is very normal, and should not kill the battery (unless it is very weak). Sounds like you solved the problem. You might want to look into a battery tender if you don't drive the car often. I know a guy who makes a very nice looking unit that mounts under the hood (or wherever the battery is). It has a small plug that connects to an adapter that plugs into the wall when the car is parked. It's a good way of keeping your battery happy.
-Andy

[gmachinz]

The one-wires do not adjust for additional load demands at lower RPMs because they have no load sensing circuitry in their voltage regulator. The amount of current it puts out is RPM specific-not load specific. And aside from that, every one can be set a little different as far as what RPM range is will "open up" so to speak. If you were to put an amp probe on the back of your alternator and turn on 80 amps worth of load @ idle, assuming that alt. you have is rated @ 60 at idle, you would not see an increase in amperage output. Now, if you were to swap out that alternator for say, a 140-amp three wire CS style and wire it so that the load sensing wire/circuitry detects additional loads, you would see it put our more and more amperage as you turned on more accessories-even at idle-that is a feature all one-wire alternator lack. There's nothing wrong with them if you have minimal accessories and run at higher speeds more often-but for around town driving, it's another story. I know this because my car uses a max. of 102 amps at idle, at night. Stereo-28 amps, Mark VIII cooling fan-28 amps (typically), transmission cooling fan-16 amps, headlights-18 amps, misc. accessories-12 amps. This is about the most it evers sees with my CS 140-amp alternator. -Jabin

[Procharmo]

Frank is correct. I also found a dead yellow top cannot be charged from a 4amp trickle battery charger. I Jumped from another battery then trickle charged over night. It was fine the next morning. Make sure your charger will auto sense and switch off when done.

Re:discharge issue. I'd suggest.
1)Turn off everything on the car.
2) Disconnect the +ve battery connection.
3) Reconnect the +ve connection by tapping it against the post. (In the dark.)
4) If you see sparks you have a current draw. If you do then.
5) Measure current draw with multimeter. (You can gauge draw buy size of spark). If its more than a few ma then start to disconnect fuses till it goes. If only a few ma then it may be clocks, alarms etc.