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    1. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Beaufort, SC
      Posts
      115
      Great info, Norm! I did a quickie set-up last night on my own before reading all this. Mine is not accurate at all, but I figured it might get me in the ballpark.



      Here is what I did:
      I took a small level and put it on the top of the tire (tires are BRAND NEW) to see how level the tires were. Once the tires were about level, then I put the level on a machined surface on the top of the spindle. The spindle with no shims was facing very far forward, so I shimmed the rear of the shaft out until the bubble just slightly went to the front (spindle facing back now). Then I checked camber again. I did this on both sides to get them close to even. Then I took my steel tape and some 2x4's to check the toe, which was already right at about 1/6th toe-in, so I left it. This should be good enough for me to move the car around and drive it out back to test the brakes when they are finally all finished (need to just bleed the rears today and add a proportioning valve later). I only had very thick shims to use, and ended up with 5 thick shims in the rear of the Right shaft and 3 in the front, and 3 in the rear of the Left and 1 in the front.
      '72 Chevelle- 4 wheel 12" Discs, Konis, Hotchkis springs (shortened an extra coil up front), 17" Cragar Soft 8's with 245's in front and 275's in back. ---STILL IN PROGRESS---





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