Help choose a new project

[ajjones44]

Looking at a few cars as potential projects but I cant make up my mind. This project will get a LS swap and be set-up for autoX events. What are some "+" and "-" s to building a Grand National, Typhoon/Syclone, and Amazon 122. Thanks.



Andre

[absintheisfun]

Well, that is about the most varied list of cars I think I may have ever seen...

SyTy's are so rare, I wouldn't get one just to do an LS swap...get an old bravada or 4x4 S10 and build it up and put the body kit on it. I modified my Typhoon, and while I had regrets, it wasn't impossible to return to stock.

Grand Nationals also are very rare and hard to come by. Owners thihnk they are worth their weight in gold and try to price them as such so that is an expensive car to buy just to modify. Just get an old Regal and clone it.

With the Amazon, I couldn't say...I've seen some built up and they are nice. GIven that I see fewer of them than the others, I say go for that!

Also note-The Sy/Ty's are heavy and top heavy compared to the others so Auto-Xing might not be as rewarding.

[ajjones44]

Well, that is about the most varied list of cars I think I may have ever seen...

SyTy's are so rare, I wouldn't get one just to do an LS swap...get an old bravada or 4x4 S10 and build it up and put the body kit on it. I modified my Typhoon, and while I had regrets, it wasn't impossible to return to stock.

Grand Nationals also are very rare and hard to come by. Owners thihnk they are worth their weight in gold and try to price them as such so that is an expensive car to buy just to modify. Just get an old Regal and clone it.

With the Amazon, I couldn't say...I've seen some built up and they are nice. GIven that I see fewer of them than the others, I say go for that!

Also note-The Sy/Ty's are heavy and top heavy compared to the others so Auto-Xing might not be as rewarding.

Thanks for the comments. I do like the Volvo due to fact it is different and extremely light compared to the others. This is a hard choice.

[SparkyRnD]

I look at projects with a different eye than I used to. I like being different, but I also want it to be affordable and replacement parts readily available for inexpensive prices. The wild cars and trucks do get a lot of attention, but they cost more, take more time to build and source parts for, and sometimes require more fabrication and custom work. That means higher cost, and more to lose if you were to wreck it. I know that doesn't fit with everyone elses mindset when selecting a project. But I would rather have a lower dollar project that I can get out and drive quickly, rather than a long term project that I don't get to play with. If you like the GN style, I would go with a regal and make it look similar. That won't be too hard or expensive, and should you wreck it you haven't lost much.

[MonzaRacer]

This type of car,,,,

[austin552]

+1
A PT Spyder or Mirage would be sweet.

[indyjps]

Purpose: Track Car with LS swap
So look for cars with a good suspension and light weight and will accomodate an LS. Or cars with good suspension available (depends on how much you want to fab). Also consider potential resale, are you keeping this car forever? A Monza thats built would be different, but could you ever recover close to your costs if a different project sparked your interest in a few years?
Datsun 240Z, jaguar xj, mercedes SL, have been interesting ideas for me, ont he dare to be different side.

A Grand National clone would be simple to do with a Regal body, Circle Track uses these cars all the time and theres a lot of suspension setups from the catalog. Consider you'd just be keeping the shell.

Amazon 122 is a good loking car with some rubber under it, can you find a good one?

[indyjps]

typed my previous response before I noticed you were in Germany. Mercedes / BMW all the way, older 2 door model with chrome bumpers and swap in updated chassis / suspension. Im just guessing but there should be a lot older models available and newer models in salvage yards to pull parts from.

[ajjones44]

I am in Germany but only stationed here for another year. I am leaning toward the GN/Regal but I did find a nice Amazon 122 for cheap. I am having it inspected this weekend.

[MonzaRacer]

Well honestly how popular would resale be on ANY built and abused road and track car. As for a Monza the cost to build would be interestingly lower from my plans as there are several companies maing parts and they share a compact yet buildable package and many similarities to the 3rd gen Fcar, sans strut front end,
My version is going to run a 302 long rod sbc, (easily replicated in LS and MUCH power but outside my budget at present,,and Ihave most of SBC parts) use 50+ yr old head technology, ebay knock off turbos and intercooler and radiator and as much as I can develop my own line of economical parts for the body style.
I did sit down and design a lower reinforcing mount for the front end. I'm pretty sure I have an idea to improve the front steering linkage with little issue and allow keeping the use of G body/S10 style spindles or the later ZQ8 S10 spindle. I know a G body style ATS or L&H spindle could be used but it adds a lot of cost and if I can fix the one issue with the longer steering arms, it keeps a cost effective mod. And Lee can fix up my stock steering box.
Now while it uses a torque arm suspension I hate it because of clearance issues so I am working on a bolt in reinforcement/replacement upper rear suspension link that will have a both 3 link and 4 link capabilities, 4 link for normal driving and easy installation. Three link will allow using a Fays2 Watts link setup for more spirited driving abilities.
With limited weight and ability to lower stock weight with fiberglass and carbon fiber parts (possibly) the ease of getting a sub 3000lb car is doable. Huge power for these little cars isnt required and even my 302 with Lt1 based intake and Megasquirt and twin turbos will most likely be a uber hand full compared to other cars.
Reason I like a 283/302 pkg is the higher torque peak vs lower one of 355 ci engine. My old yellow one pictured had a VERY mild 355, cam was a Lingenfelter (sp?) design for the Accel Super Ram FI way back when VERY mild, yet sounded good. My short block was my old 355 from my 71 Monte that had broke a cam, two lifter fell down into it and on rod broke, the other bent but no major block issues. So my buddies race cars 283 was wiped and his 327 was on hold he needed a engine he picked up cam and lifters, I bought two new cast pistons, new rings, rods and mains. We reused an old oil pump I had, new TC set and when I got engine back, (it never ran in his race car) I took several sets of heads down to old shop I used to work at and built a set of 991 truck heads, opened up to 1.94 intakes, basic pocket port what ever good springs I could scrounge from multiple heads. I used steel shim head gaskets, pistons down in hole 0.018" and 0.015" head gaskets made tight quench, I used a Edelbrock Scorpion intake and a used 600 Carter Competition AFB and my Hooker headers. This engine was VIOLENT when tied to my TCI Sat Nite special converter and street fighter trans, and a swing arm suspended 3.42 rear end from an 86 S10 (near perfect bolt in).
The car ran on 225 50 15 Hoosier radial GT (1st gen) tires and 275 60 15 Hoosier 2nd gen tires and HOOKED like a super stocker. NO wheel spin what so ever. Even with just front 5 lug S10 spindle brakes a manual brake master cyl, and Raybestos Brute stop pads it was a easy stop.

My current plans:
S10 spindle 5 lug conversion till I find set of ZQ8 spindles then Kore3 adapter and 325 mm C5 Corvette brakes, most likely S10 rear discs.
Rear end will either be my current S10 2wd/ 3.42 7.5 10 bolt then later and 8.5 S10/Blazer 4wd rear end so better offset wheels will fit.
Mods to steering will be my fix to the S10 conversion.
SPC upper arms as soon as I send one to SC&C for prototyping
17 in wheels all around as 18s would put way too much wheel in front and too little tire.
I designed a lower reinforcement mount to let me run air ride ShockWaves or CoilRide in front and it should be simple to use Coolride air ride in back. My own design upper mount in back will let dual exhaust be hung under car tucked up nice without torque arm if a person wanted to run the TA set up then a single 3 in exhaust might be ok for smaller cars or an oval 4 in pipe, or two 2.5 side by side but it gets tight.
My idea with air ride was to use an old N20 bottle for air tank.
The rear suspension would use my upper mount conversion, with both 4 or 3 link abilities and a Fays2 Watts link.
also intended to move the gas tank to center it up so tail pipes can be ran on both sides.
94 Buick Park Avenue fuel sender works in original tanks giving new sender and electric fuel pump ability and able to install newer fuel filter also.
Swap in a larger pump for big power or use the supercharged version for milder ones.
My engine is simple as I swapped for parts my buddy was gonna use in his 327 race engine.
461 Double humps, 2.02/1.60 one piece swirl polished valves, cut for big springs, crew in studs and guide plates.
Figure give them a good decking to get down to 60 cc chambers
61 283 bore 0.125" over , forged 350 std pistons, turn about 0.065 off top of them, use 6 in small journal rods ,prepped std/std steel crank and main studs, windage tray I have. Use small cam similar to one Marty used on theturboforums.com in The Grenade, like a comp 260 or 268 h cam.
My LT1 intake, Injector dynamics injectors, Megasquirt 3 , my own design DIS system and build my own front accessory drive set up.
Then twin ebay turbos for some ooommppphhh !
Use either a 4L60, 4L60/65/70E or my old TCI th350 and TCI converter.
Just some of my projects ideas.