No Limit Challenge - er

[RobNoLimit]

Bead Rolling the tubs

[RobNoLimit]

Bead Rolling the tubs

[RobNoLimit]

Tubb Parts

[RobNoLimit]

This is the outer tubb side and the closest point it is spaced 3/8" away from the outer quarter panel.

[RobNoLimit]

Tubb and inner side tacked together

[RobNoLimit]

Here is a look at the tubbs going in. When done, there is over 20 ft of weld in each tubb.

[Bryce]

Great work and fast! I am looking forward to this car being done.

Maybe sometime next week, HAHA.

[RobNoLimit]

Lol, maybe not that quick. Uni-bombers usually take about three/four months. next week we will roll some 335's under it and start on the rear suspension.

[RobNoLimit]

Happy monday!!! The welding on the tubbs is almost done, so today we will start on the rear suspension mock-up. Our new Currie HD housing arived last week, and I spent some time over the weekend on auto-pro working on the rear design. Simple to tune, adjustable, and easy to get to, are big on the list of requirements. Yes, of coarse it will be smooth riding, and offer great performance. But keep in check, if it's too complicated, or too hard to get to, the owner won't tune it, and won't get all they can out of it. So, with this in mind, it's a three link, panhard, and coil-overs. We will throw in a few tricks to help make it sticky.

[craigs73]

this is nice project keep up the good work rob

[RobNoLimit]

This is a cool little part. These are pivit adjusters, like a small scale 'johnny-joint' The plus here is that these have nylon race cups for the pivit ball to ride on, not metal-to-metal. This is the same (in smaller scale) as the 'monster-balls' that we use on our trailing arms. The big gain here, is that they allow the axle to tip without binding at all, (like some of the aftermarket rotating links), and they still are quiet on the street, unlike true rod-ends. They are greasable, and rebuildable. I usually build all of our 'street' links with only oneadjustable end. - less chance of the suspension 'self-adjusting' if the jam nuts aren't tight. (and we see that a lot!). But on the Challenger, we will use an adjuster on each end, one R.H. and one L.H. so that it is easier to tune.

[linkstar69]

Neat part

[72BBSwinger]

I dig I dig! Subscribed.......

[Hotwhilz]

May I ask, where to get those?

[RobNoLimit]

these are a machine-robotics item. I get them from a friend at Sunkist bottling. The small ones are 3/4" RH or LH thread, with a 7/16 (12mm) pivit hole, and 2 3/8" wide. They don't go in inplace of any existing rod end or adjuster, so it has to be a new mount install to go with them. Let me know if you want some, I can get them for you for 21.00 each.

[Bjkadron]

these are a machine-robotics item. I get them from a friend at Sunkist bottling. The small ones are 3/4" RH or LH thread, with a 7/16 (12mm) pivit hole, and 2 3/8" wide. They don't go in inplace of any existing rod end or adjuster, so it has to be a new mount install to go with them. Let me know if you want some, I can get them for you for 21.00 each.

What kind of loading can they take?

[Bryce]

What kind of loading can they take?

I would bet the bolt would be the weak link in that setup. But a good alloy steel SHCS is good to 15,000 pounds in single shear.

[RobNoLimit]

You are right that the bolt is the stress point. But, the bolt is inside of a larger alloy steel pivit ball, which is all one piece. These would be in double shear. I have seen these in action, connected to 80k lb air rams and they slam into steel sheet to make cans, about 60k times a day. They service, greese every 100 hrs, and rotate(replace) every 90 days, or appx 7 million hits. They're still pretty snug at that point. I don't think we can hurt them on the street.

[Hotwhilz]

Rob, got to measure a few things but definitly intersted I'll shoot you a pm for order once I figure the watt set up I'm heading for what type of thread are those

[RobNoLimit]

Challenger eating a 335