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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
    Country Flag: United States

    1967 Lemans Project - LS376/480 & 4L80E Build

    Hello my name is Ken and this is only the second forum I have joined so please bear with me as I figure the functions to this one out.

    I have a 1967 LeMans that I obtained through the family in 1992. It has not seen a day of duty since. Yes, that is almost 20 years ago. It has been an on again off again project for many different reasons over the years. However for the past 9 months or so God has seen fit for me to be able get serious about this thing. I have been more than pleased to get busy!

    So here are some pics and descriptions of my near 20 year project:

    This is my oldest son at age 2 when the LeMans made it to my house


    This is him at his wedding last December. He is now 20.


    This is the Lemans as it was in 2005. Mostly rust fighting and interior removal at that point




    Dog house off


    OL trusty 326 and 2 speed tranny out


    Body comming off the chassis


    Body as it sits now awaiting its turn for some work


    Chassis after seperation from body


    Frame stripped of all parts


    Lots of welding and grinding to strengthen frame:

    Frame rails boxed in




    Gussets welded in




    Transmission crossmember cut to length and rewelded


    Preperations and measurments being made for clearencing spring pockets for ridetech suspension parts




    That is where the frame is at this point. The heat here in the DFW area of Texas has been brutal the past few weeks so not much work has been done.

    I have had the 12 bolt rebuilt. New axles, tightened up posi and dress up is all it needed.


    Bought the modified 4L80E


    And the LS376/480.


    Will post pics when I get some more of the parts in.

    I have been scouring the forums and been very impressed by some of you with your technical savy, craftsmenship, good ol American Ingenuity and most of all your willingness to share. So please feel free to ask any questions as I am bound to ask alot of them myself.

    Thanks to CFster for his help so far!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Ma.
    Posts
    5,049
    Country Flag: United States
    Looks like a nice project. Very nice drive train.
    Wayne
    Car FINALLY home !!!!!! lol
    Project FNQUIK https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ghlight=FNQUIK

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Enfield, CT
    Posts
    423
    Country Flag: United States
    Fantastic Ken! I'll be watching you build for sure. Nice combination!

    -Colin
    '67 GTO - LS3, 4L60E, SC&C AFX Package, KORE3 C6 Z06, Boyds PT-09s

    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...7-GTO-LS3-Swap


  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    295
    Hey brother therobski here, I'm new to the site too and building a 64 F-85 post car. I live over on the lake in Rowlett. We need to meet.
    64 F-85 post car Pro-Touring project-my RV when I retire
    2nd owner 63 Corvette vert

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    295
    FYI I boxed my frame too, had it sand blasted and powder coated, got it home and discovered that in order to get the transmission cross member back in I had to cut a lot of my boxing out on one side to get the cross member back in....
    64 F-85 post car Pro-Touring project-my RV when I retire
    2nd owner 63 Corvette vert

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
    Country Flag: United States
    Quote Originally Posted by therobski View Post
    FYI I boxed my frame too, had it sand blasted and powder coated, got it home and discovered that in order to get the transmission cross member back in I had to cut a lot of my boxing out on one side to get the cross member back in....
    therobski I am doing the same as far as the sandblasting and powder coating goes. The way I am tackling this problem is welding shelves onto the boxed area of the frame to secure the crossmember. That is why I cut the ends of my crossmember then removed about 1" or so on both sides then welded the ends back on. See the 5th picture up from here in my original post. I feel for you having to cut up all that work and powder coat. Have you started a thread? Would love to see your project and meet you as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
    Country Flag: United States
    Picked up the engine the other day and some other parts have come in as well:


    Engine stands


    Adapter brackets and mounts




    Flexplate


    Oil pan


    Engine


    I have enough parts in I need to get back to work. Will finish up with the spring pockets on the frame then mock up the engine and tranny so I can place and weld in the crossmember "shelves". Once that is done then the frame will go out for sandblasting and powder coating.


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
    Country Flag: United States
    Started mocking up the engine and transmission today and ran into a problem with clearance between the oil pan and engine cradle. See pictures below.



    The pan just buries into the back of the cradle:




    I have a full inch of clearance between the front of the oil pan and the cradle:


    After making several measurements the engine appears to be forward about 5/8" from original


    So I quess my questions are:
    1. How much clearance is enough between the oil pan and the back of the engine cradle. 5/8" to 3/4" enough?

    2. What is the minimum clearance allowable between the front part of the oil pan and the top of the engine cradle?

    I would like some feed back on this because if I am going to have to move the engine stands I would like to do it once and account for both front to back and up and down.

    Any pictures of your clearances from your LS3 to 66-67 A bodies would be great as well.

    Thanks again-Ken

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Enfield, CT
    Posts
    423
    Country Flag: United States
    Huh. I have plenty of room. Hard to tell in this pic, but enough to run that big starter cable in front of the pan...



    What kind of adapter plates and mounts are you using? These are mine -->





    You've got your brackets bolted on the right way?

    '67 GTO - LS3, 4L60E, SC&C AFX Package, KORE3 C6 Z06, Boyds PT-09s

    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...7-GTO-LS3-Swap


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Enfield, CT
    Posts
    423
    Country Flag: United States
    You also have to allow clearance for your tie-rod travel.

    Mine will still hit at full lock, especially since I put the AFX spindles on it. They allow more lock.

    '67 GTO - LS3, 4L60E, SC&C AFX Package, KORE3 C6 Z06, Boyds PT-09s

    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...7-GTO-LS3-Swap


  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
    Country Flag: United States
    Colin,

    I used the AutoKraft mounts because apparently Edelbrock quite selling those adapters plates by themselves. I checked everywhere. I could only get them by buying the whole conversion kit. There were different things about the kit I did not like such as the headers and the fact that the kit was based on a '64 Chevelle. Not sure the frame was close enough to the '66-'67.

    Here is a pic of the AutoKraft adapter/mounts I have. I did put them on opposite sides from what AutoKraft has marked on them because it would have moved the engine 2 more inches forward from where it is now. They are beautifull just not quite right.



    Thank you for the pics they will help a bunch!
    Ken

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    socal
    Posts
    119
    sweet ride its going to b one bad ass lemans when ur done with it
    hpjunky danny
    1969 camaro project wayne due c4 subframe
    2004 scsb silverado jgpclone forged 370 lq9 tt gt3071 built 4l60e trans 4:10 gears daly driver

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Dayton Ohio
    Posts
    1,283

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    19
    I'd shoot for 1/2" min between the cross member and the pan. How is your firewall clearance going to be with the engine where it is now?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
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    Quote Originally Posted by StyleIn68 View Post
    I'd shoot for 1/2" min between the cross member and the pan. How is your firewall clearance going to be with the engine where it is now?
    StyleIn68-

    I think I will be able to get about 1" by moving my stands back as far as I can. Firewall clearance should not be an issue from what I have been reading and measuring.

    Thanks-Ken

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    297
    Otherwise, get some 1" setback plates. Try carshop.com
    Love the Build!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
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    Well I decided that moving the engine stands back would be the easiest and least expensive thing to do. So here are the results.

    This is what I started with:


    New holes drilled:


    I tapped them for ease of install:


    Engine stand reinstalled:


    Engine and transmission reinstalled:


    Oil pan clearance much improved:



    Measurments make me believe I will have close to 5" to the firewall. All looking good I welded in the transmission crossmember brackets to the frame rails.

    Measuments made and lines scribed:


    Marked areas prepaired and brackets welded in:



    Finished product:


    The next post should be of the frame back from the powder coater and I can start putting the suspension on. YEA!!!!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    1,897
    Country Flag: Australia
    Nice work.
    Regards,
    Leigh

    Sydney, Australia
    1971 Firebird 455

    https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Burleson, TX
    Posts
    125
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeighP View Post
    Nice work.
    Thank you Leigh. I just checked out your thread so right back at you with the "Nice Work". I loved my '71 Esprit. It had a 400 with a Turbo 400 trans. What I would give to have it back again!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Pgh, PA
    Posts
    2,341
    Just a caution - I would make sure to measure carefully about how much you're setting the engine back. The external dimensions of the LX compared to a Pontiac Standard Block are different, however if you look at the frong upper shock perch hole, in a Pontiac motor that hole is slightly behind the center of the engine on my car with solid motor mounts in stock locations. That means my engine center is slightly FORWARD of the holes where the shock shafts come up through the perch. In order to safely remove my engine I not only need to remove tranny and scattershield, but I really also need to remove clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. If the LX is that much shorter (front to rear) then you're probably OK, but I know if I moved my motor back even a 1/4", I probably wouldn't be able to get the scattershield bolts off and there is no way the motor would come out.
    '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

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