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    1. #1
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      Nov 2004
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      Stainless tubing questsion

      Looking for 3/8 stainless tubing that can be formed with the mastercool flare tool into the GM quick disconnect end.

      The tool works perfectly with parts store steel tubing, but I'l like to use stainless.



    2. #2
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      Quote Originally Posted by EFI69Cam View Post
      Looking for 3/8 stainless tubing that can be formed with the mastercool flare tool into the GM quick disconnect end.

      The tool works perfectly with parts store steel tubing, but I'l like to use stainless.
      Go to a local supplier of stainless tubing, buy a foot and see how it goes. I don't see what you are asking here.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
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      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    3. #3
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      You need seamless, thin walled annealed. You're not likely to find that at a local supplier.

      http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...=cat/cat79.htm

      This is where I get my stainless for plumbing.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    4. #4
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Go to a local supplier of stainless tubing, buy a foot and see how it goes. I don't see what you are asking here.

      Andrew
      I did that with a piece I had around and spent a couple hours getting the piece out of the forming die. It got wedged in there. I think the wall is too thick.

    5. #5
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      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
      You need seamless, thin walled annealed. You're not likely to find that at a local supplier.

      http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com...=cat/cat79.htm

      This is where I get my stainless for plumbing.
      Thanks! Your right, I'm not going to find that locally.

    6. #6
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      May 2011
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      La
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      http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

      This stuff is .008 thinner than what jegs sells and a little cheaper, and its the same grade.

    7. #7
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      Quote Originally Posted by socorob View Post
      http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

      This stuff is .008 thinner than what jegs sells and a little cheaper, and its the same grade.
      I would not use it. At $40 for 25 feet, I would be willing to bet it's not the same quality. It doesn't really state that it's seamless fully annealed. Plus, it's coiled. So, you're going to have to straighten it first, risking work hardening it before you even start. Stainless is difficult enough.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    8. #8
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      Have you tried McMaster Carr?
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
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      I deliver what EFI promises.
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      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    9. #9
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      Mcmaster doesn't sell thin enough wall. Thinnest is .028. Do yourself a favor and just get it from a reputable place like the link I provided. The wrong material will destroy the dies in the master cool kit. I know this from experience. For the small amount you need and for the infrequent purchases, take advantage of others experience and get the correct stuff from a vendor who supplies performance car builders as their job.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    10. #10
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      I don't know about the master cool kit, but I've always used .035 wall material (1/4" to 5/8") SS from McMaster-Carr. It works fine with my Imperial AN flaring tool. If you can get thinner material elsewhere, that's great too.
      John Parsons

      UnRivaled Rides -- Modern upgrades for your ride.

      UnRivaled Rides recent project -- LS9-powered 69 Camaro

    11. #11
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      Look on page 126 of the Mcmaster catalog.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    12. #12
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Look on page 126 of the Mcmaster catalog.

      Andrew
      Don't have access at the moment. Is it fully annealed (not soft annealed) seamless straight and less tha. .020 wall? In any case I'd rather know for sure. Stainless is just a pain to begin with.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    13. #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by parsonsj View Post
      I don't know about the master cool kit, but I've always used .035 wall material (1/4" to 5/8") SS from McMaster-Carr. It works fine with my Imperial AN flaring tool. If you can get thinner material elsewhere, that's great too.
      I've seen .035 damage the dies with the tool. I've replaced my 3/16 die once.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    14. #14
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      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
      Don't have access at the moment. Is it fully annealed (not soft annealed) seamless straight and less tha. .020 wall? In any case I'd rather know for sure. Stainless is just a pain to begin with.
      When you get home you can check it out and enlighten us.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    15. #15
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      When you get home you can check it out and enlighten us.

      Andrew
      Looked at it and still have questions. They do have .020 wall 3/16" stainless however it's shown as "soft annealed" rather than "full annealed". My impression that "soft annealed" was really "process annealed" and not "fully annealed". For "annealed" it does seem as though the thinnest wall is .028. I don't know if McMaster is being accurate in their description. I've been told that fully annealed is what we should be using. I also don't know what the impact is between them. Again, that's why I chose to avoid the drama and just get known good tubing in order to try and minimize risk.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    16. #16
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      Quote Originally Posted by wmhjr View Post
      Looked at it and still have questions. They do have .020 wall 3/16" stainless however it's shown as "soft annealed" rather than "full annealed". My impression that "soft annealed" was really "process annealed" and not "fully annealed". For "annealed" it does seem as though the thinnest wall is .028. I don't know if McMaster is being accurate in their description. I've been told that fully annealed is what we should be using. I also don't know what the impact is between them. Again, that's why I chose to avoid the drama and just get known good tubing in order to try and minimize risk.
      Mc Master lists very specific specifications, including a Rockwell hardness rating. My point is that there are options. I am sure that "what we should be using" is not that unique.

      Andrew
      1970 GTO Version 3.0
      1967 Cougar build
      GM High-Tech Performance feature
      My YouTube Channel Please Subscribe!
      Instagram @dr__efi
      I deliver what EFI promises.
      Remote Holley EFI tuning.
      Please get in touch if I can be of service.

      "You were the gun, your voice was the trigger, your bravery was the barrel, your eyes were the bullets." ~ Her

    17. #17
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      Quote Originally Posted by andrewb70 View Post
      Mc Master lists very specific specifications, including a Rockwell hardness rating. My point is that there are options. I am sure that "what we should be using" is not that unique.

      Andrew
      Andrew, I'm not disputing that McMaster provides some amount of data, nor am I disputing that the product there will or will not work. I don't know. Again, I find stainless to be a real PITA to deal with in terms of flaring - especially in high pressure lines with double flares on critical safety systems such as brakes. That's why I choose to and recommend eliminating the drama and risk and just buy from a known source of materials that are known to be correct. The McMaster pricing is actually more expensive than the source I posted as well.

      For the record, the Mastercool tool set is not actually designed for stainless, but it works with it assuming you have the right materials and are careful. That being said, all it takes is a single section of the wrong material to ruin one of the die sets. I'm sure there are plenty of places to get this material but in THIS regard it is somewhats unique. I seriously doubt that eBay is one of them but who knows. If you want to pay more, I'm sure McMaster is fine (assuming you're also OK with figuring out whether or not it is the correct stuff).
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    18. #18
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      Quote Originally Posted by EFI69Cam View Post
      Looking for 3/8 stainless tubing that can be formed with the mastercool flare tool into the GM quick disconnect end.

      The tool works perfectly with parts store steel tubing, but I'l like to use stainless.
      Guys, he wants to put a "rib" in the tubing for a gm quick connect fuel line, that's the way I read it anyways. So like andrew said try it but I don't think it will work real well.

      .035" seamless stainless tubing from McMaster is fine for a 37 degree AN flare, do it all the time....it does not need to be annealed for this style flare but MUST be seamless.

      I have never tried to 45 degree double flare any stainless tubing but it can be done as wmhjr says with the right tubing. This will absolutely need to be annealed because stainless work hardens so fast, so the only way to double flare it is by starting with softest you possibly can.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
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      1
      Talk to Gary or Jason at Pure Choice Motorsports. They are very helpful and have the tubing that you need. Their number is 888-505-8355 or look them up on the web at purechoicemotorsports.com

    20. #20
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      Quote Originally Posted by marmkat View Post
      Talk to Gary or Jason at Pure Choice Motorsports. They are very helpful and have the tubing that you need. Their number is 888-505-8355 or look them up on the web at purechoicemotorsports.com
      I called them today and got .028 wall annealed seamless. Hopefully it won't get stuck in the die.

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