Wilwood 140-10996 problem??

[AJENSEN383]

I put on Wilwoods, 140-10996 kit, "Corvette" style master w/ 1" bore and Wilwood adj. prop valve.... I was replacing my 4 wheel drum brake system with this Wilwood manual disc/drm..I took it for a test drive and while the brake pedal gets hard at about 1/2 pedal, and the car will stop decently, it seems that the it stopped alot better with the 4 wheel drums...The drums had a harder pedal and took a bit more effort to stop in stop and go traffic, but when I really stood on them, they stopped abrubtly. With the wilwoods up front, they dont do that.. I even have the adj. prop valve all the way open to to the rear drums.... Is this normal?? THis is the only car Ive driven with manual brakes, so I have nothing to compare it to..

I plan on closing off the adj prop valve to the rear, to see what happens.. I did make an adapter of about 6" of 3/16" line to silver soldered it to 1/4" coming out of the master, since it is pretty much impossible to get a 3/8-24 fitting on a 1/4" line. ...Could that be the problem, with it not pushing enough fluid to the rear cylinders??

[Vegas69]

A 1" master is going to give you a very firm pedal. I run one on my car. Did you bed in the brake pads? That solder job sounds very dangerous.

[opnwide]

You're going the wrong way on that solder job. Ditch the 1/4" line and go 3/16 and you can use a 3/8" fitting. You can buy 7/16" fittings for 3/16 line at places like ebay or speedway motors to connect the other end. The size of line does NOT make a diff. Fluid volume is fluid volume. If you had a little air bubble in the line, you would move it further with each pump of the brake using 3/16" line, but total volume delivered to the calipers is the same. I had a similar issue plumbing my brake system. Solder is fine for double digit pressure but not for brake pressures.