1967 Hideaway Headlamp Help

[nicks67camaro]

I just replaced the motors on my 1967 Camaro. The car is an original RS not a conversion kit. The headlights open with headlights turning on. They will not close when the lights are turned off. I double checked everything is plugged in correctly. My 2 guesses are

1. The 3 circuit breaker cluster under the drivers fender that controls them are no good. Does one relay control open and one controls closed? or is it one relay for both functions?
or
2. Limit switches are no good. I assume if one is bad on the "closed" position it will not trigger the motor to move?

Am I on the right track?



Thanks Nick

[SlowProgress]

I am sure it's not this simple but it seems like mine has the have the ignition switch turned on for the doors to close. There is a diode coming from the ignition switch. If that was failed open you may not get power to the three relays mounted on the bracket under the left fender with the switch on. All three relays should get power at the same time. So if they open OK then the relays are probably fine. I guess I would check the power from the ignition switch through the diode first.
The limit switches can be checked with an ohmmeter also (or a wire and a light bulb). Probably both are not bad at the same time though. So I still suspect the power from the ignition switch as long as all the wires are in the right place to begin with ?
I picked up a 1967-69 Camaro RS wiring diagram manual from Year One, or Classic years ago. Sorry can't remember which one but that is really helpful to know where all the wires go and see the circuit. The back of the wiring manual says MP 50 Jim Osborn Reproductions. Hopefully it is still made.

Good Luck,

Scott

[nicks67camaro]

I knew about the key on position. Il look at the ignition next. They worked at one time.

Thanks

[SlowProgress]

I am looking at the diagram and it looks like there should be 12 v to the greeen wire on relay #2 to power the closed ciircut when the ignition is on. Maybe that wire is loose. The wire leaving relay #2 is supposed to be brown up to the limit switches. So you could turn on the ignition and work your way back. Check the brown wire for power, then the output of the relay #2 for power, then the input green wire for power. If the green wire has power and the relay clicks (and no power on the brown wire) then the #2 relay could be bad. I live in Arizona where it is dry but I still noticed these relays have some corrosion inside because they aren't sealed very well. The power to relay #2 comes from an orange wire fed by a circuit breaker. That's another good thing to check do you have power at the output of the circuit breaker on the orange wire. The circuit breaker could be failed open. Also, does the red wire to the circuit breaker have power. If the power side looks good then it sort of comes down to the ignition switch circuit again. One thing you can try is to pull the ignition switch and then gently tap on the relays with a rubber hammer or soft piece of wood. If one of the relays, or the circuit breaker have dirty contacts this could make it work again so you know which part to replace. It's amazing what you can find out just by lightly tapping on stuff.

Good luck,

Scott

[nicks67camaro]

Scott thank for you help. I ended up replacing the 3 relays and the circuit breaker to rule those out. Found out the relays were not wired right. But it didn't fix it. I then traced the lead from inside the passenger compartment and wouldn't you know it once i made sure the wires were all good with contacts and routing it works! Finally the car looks like it should! heres a pic for ya!