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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,435
      Country Flag: United States

      Lowering Block Cracked 12 Bolt Housing

      So, here it goes. This was supposed to be a simple swap. I was going from a 2" block to a 1.5" block on the back of my Camaro. Took the old ones out and put the new ones in. Everything seemed okay until about 20 minutes later when I notice gear oil on the ground under both sides. Took the blocks out and the pins on top of the new ones were long enough that when I tightened them down they cracked my housing on both sides! So... after what should have been a simple 30 minute job I now have to strip the housing brackets off and fix the housing. Then, weld new brackets back on. LAME! I just want to warn people to check the length of the pin on the top before snugging them down.



      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      Batesville, IN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      Yikes - - That sucks. Seems like something like that always happens to me too - - - it's never as easy as it should be.

      Sorry for the crappy luck.
      Brandon Wiedeman
      1972 Suburban
      1967 Chevy II - Project not yet started

      I have about 3 lifetimes worth of projects planned out in my head!
      Wiedo's

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,435
      Country Flag: United States
      It just sucks. I have installed dozens of lowering blocks over the years if seems like and never even thought to look at the height of the pin. I bought these from Summit. AllStar is the brand I think. Just your basic universal aluminum lowering block really. What sucks even more is a quick snip at the band saw will fix the problem... But, I still have to fix the housing.
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      The 12 bolt I'm using in the drag car had the Mopar/truck style perches welded on after the previous owner cut the factory ones off for a floater/ladder bar. The guy that welded then on had the angle off and I needed a 6 degree steel shim so I got some steel ones and used a steel sleeve for a pin and had to trim it down so it didn't hit the housing after trial fitting it.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2008
      Location
      Rockford, Illinois
      Posts
      128
      Hey Phillip, don't feel that bad about it.... I just got mine back from having it welded up from the same thing. It took me a while to figure out where the gear oil was coming from. Last time I'll be using lowering blocks, since now I installed the ridetech Airbar system.
      '68 Camaro - 383 Stroker, Ridetech Suspension, Rushforth Liverwires.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,435
      Country Flag: United States
      Ha! Very cool Shawn. I really don't blame lowering blocks. Just didn't ever think to look at that. I will from now on though and will never ever have this problem again My new spring perches are on their way so once they are here I will set the rear in a jig, wack off the stock perches. Reweld the housing up and reinstall some new perches. Shouldn't be difficult, just time consuming to get those factory perches off of there.
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,435
      Country Flag: United States
      Okay, we have been working on remedying this problem... Got the two 5/8" diameter punched holes filled and welded up. Then we spun the rear over and left it overnight checking for any seepage. After that we tossed the new leaf spring pads on there and set the pinion angle. Got them all burned in and we are starting to reassemble the rear. Below are a couple shots that I snapped on my phone. You can see the lowering block hanging on the jack stand that punched the hole. I went ahead and buzzed it through the bandsaw to shorten up the pin. I took about a half inch out of the pin. Then cleaned it up on the belt sander.





      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2008
      Location
      Durham,NC
      Posts
      664
      Country Flag: United States
      So what are we drinking budlight?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      May 2001
      Location
      Mesa, Az.
      Posts
      1,435
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah man...

      No self respecting car junkie works on a project as annoying as this and doesn't crack open a convienent brew

      LOL
      Phillip
      64 Studebaker Daytona Twin Turbo- http://bit.ly/1SgxQ0g
      65 Cutlass F-85 - http://bit.ly/1W4lJm4




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