Stock second gen chassis

[TBART70]

It's time to start going on this thing finally after 3 years of crying about my pos chassis.



I'm going to use my stock chassis instead with ATS spindles and whatever I find is the best bolt on stuff. What should I do to it? Is welding the whole thing the right way to do it? I have the firewall bars that I made for the other chassis, should I use those or something else, like the PTFB bars. What steering box is the best one to use. I will be using coilovers and someone's kit when it is all said and done.


Let me just say this aftermarket chassis has been an eye opener, right from the original purchase phone call, to all of the crap leading up to dumping it and loosing more money on it than you can imagine. I just want to say make sure you know what your buying before you do it. Wait a little while before getting the only thing out there for your car with little feedback from the people out there. I will admit buyer beware, don't try and modify it yourself because you will not be happy. The stock chassis with all of the goodies having better numbers than what it came with and even after spending countless hours fabbing and welding and grinding....... It is still flimsy and I'm still not feeling all that confident about the safety of it. I know I will be putting a pretty strong engine in it and driving like a moron, but if it something I do compared to a failure I would be even more pissed off.


Anybody have any good ideas what to do with it, I was thinking of making jungle gym for my kid.......

Thanks for any ideas
-Tom

[formula]

What.

[TBART70]

what.

ok?

What should I do to it? Is welding the whole thing (all of the factory seams) the right way to do it? I have the firewall bars that I made for the other chassis, should I use those or something else, like the PTFB bars. What steering box is the best one to use.

[formula]

I said what because your first post was all over the place. Are you saying you have an aftermarket frame, but are building a stock one instead?

If that's the case, seam weld it, yes. Kinda hard to know which bars are right without knowing any details on the other frame other than your apparent displeasure with it.

[David Pozzi]

It would be nice to seam weld the chassis, BUT you have to weld with low amps and only in 4" long sections skipping around so you don't put too much heat in one spot. I've heard of guys turning their subframe into a pretzel by overheating it.
David

[TBART70]

Sorry, I thought I still had pics in my sig.

[TBART70]

It would be nice to seam weld the chassis, BUT you have to weld with low amps and only in 4" long sections skipping around so you don't put too much heat in one spot. I've heard of guys turning their subframe into a pretzel by overheating it.
David

Thanks David, the last thing I need to do is make more of a head ache. Should I brace it or even bolt it back in the car?

[LeighP]

I've got no issue with the stock subframe....I'd have a look at the welding on it....some need better welding, some are pretty good....after cleaning mine up and removing spatter etc, the welds looked pretty good so I left them alone....
I have to say, looking at your pics, that frame/suspension set up is something that I'd expect to see someone using on a straight line 1/4 mile car.
I'm using the Pro-G-Braces from PTFB....bigger diameter tube and adjustable for fit. Nice design.

[L & H Kustoms]

I would stitch weld the seams on your stock sub and use the PTFB pro G braces for the adjustablity and use a 670 quick ratio box. I have a sale going on right now 10% off on all products from PTFB.

[Taman]

I run an aftermarket subframe from Heidts. It was designed for autocrossing. Plenty strong and I have lost another 170 ponds off the front of the car. This is way better than the stock subframe ever could be no matter what I bolted to it.

[TBART70]

The Heidt's is a nice piece, a lot nicer than my Martz by far, although I modified it like crazy.

I can't go that route again, the stock 2nd gen sub with all the goodies is pretty good from what I hear.

[MrQuick]

I run an aftermarket subframe from Heidts. It was designed for autocrossing. Plenty strong and I have lost another 170 ponds off the front of the car. This is way better than the stock subframe ever could be no matter what I bolted to it.

I think you could have tried better or gave it more of a chance. Are running on the Heidt's frame now or is it being built?
from the link in your sig.
Chassis
Front suspension: factory spindles, Hotchkis 2-inch lowering springs, Energy Suspension bushings, Moog HD ball joints, Monroe shock absorbers (street), or Moroso (drag race), Hotchkis 1.375-inch antisway bar
Rear suspension: Hotchkis 1.5-inch drop leaf springs, Monroe/Moroso shock absorbers, Hotchkis 7/8-inch antisway bar

[Zee]

I run an aftermarket subframe from Heidts. It was designed for autocrossing. Plenty strong and I have lost another 170 ponds off the front of the car. This is way better than the stock subframe ever could be no matter what I bolted to it.

170 LBS? I had my frame out and I don't even think the frame weighed that much to begin with. My out of shape ass was able to take my frame out of a pick up bed and load it onto horses by myself. From the pics, I am not seeing where that much weight was removed. Not doubting you but maybe combined with the arms, brakes, R&P and a lot of other stuff. Any idea how much less just the frame weighs? Looks sweet though

[6spdcamaro]

Mabye he meant 17 lbs