nitrous newbie questions.

[dusterbd13]

traded a mexican dinner for a nitrous kit last night. came off my friends camaro after he fragged the motor with it. plans to go on my 360 mopar. (forged pistons, i beam rods, cast crank, all ARP bolts, aluminum heads, victor jr single plane, 750 edelbrock, solid roller, 9.4:1 compression, MSD ignition with mopar distributor)

first up, id like to identify just what kit is sitting on my workbench. the plate has no markings other than NOS, Fuel, and N20. its 1/2 inch aluminum, dual brass tubes running down the center.
solenoids:
Fuel: Fuel Cheater no 16050
N20: N2O pro-shot no 16040

10 lb bottle

thats about all i got with the kit, not including some braded line between the solenoids and plate, and various brackets.

i know ill need a WOT switch, plumbing, and wiring to make it work. anything else?

now, on to the major questions.
1. i only want to run a 75-100 shot. really dont want to hit the car that hard. can i tune this system for that small of a shot?
2. how can i verify the components are working and working properly before i break something?
3. the braided lines between the solenoids and the plate are exactly the same length. how important is that? id like to mount both the solenoids behind the carb under my air cleaner for cleaner looks
4. my holley blue pump and regulator combo has another outletport that is currently not being used. can i use that to feed the fuel solenoid?
5. any good articles and websites that would help me get up to speed on this before i start to install, other than mounting the plate when i get done putting the choke back in my carb?

thanks for any help you can throw my way.

Michael

[TonyBolton]

first up, id like to identify just what kit is sitting on my workbench. the plate has no markings other than NOS, Fuel, and N20. its 1/2 inch aluminum, dual brass tubes running down the center.
solenoids:
Fuel: Fuel Cheater no 16050
N20: N2O pro-shot no 16040

10 lb bottle

thats about all i got with the kit, not including some braded line between the solenoids and plate, and various brackets.

i know ill need a WOT switch, plumbing, and wiring to make it work. anything else?

"Cheater" and "Pro Shot" sound like NOS brands to me. It'd be in your best interest to purchase a good heater. Nitrous isn't anything if you can't get your psi's over 900.

now, on to the major questions.
1. i only want to run a 75-100 shot. really dont want to hit the car that hard. can i tune this system for that small of a shot?

Sure. Nitrous systems(wet kits specifically)are nice because generally speaking, they are their own system. Meaning, you tune the motor to run just on the motor, then you tune the nitrous(with the jets) to run on nitrous. Kind of a WIN/WIN.

2. how can i verify the components are working and working properly before i break something?

Hook the wires up to a 9v battery or a car battery. If you hear them clicking(loud is good), they're good to go.

3. the braided lines between the solenoids and the plate are exactly the same length. how important is that? id like to mount both the solenoids behind the carb under my air cleaner for cleaner looks

For such a small shot, it's not that big of a deal. Generally, you'd like your fuel line as short as possible to eliminate the "lean spike" upon initial activation. You have N20 traveling at 1000psi, vs fuel(and carb'd at that!)traveling at 4-7psi. Math doesn't lie.

4. my holley blue pump and regulator combo has another outletport that is currently not being used. can i use that to feed the fuel solenoid?

Sounds like you could, but i'm no "carb" guy.

5. any good articles and websites that would help me get up to speed on this before i start to install, other than mounting the plate when i get done putting the choke back in my carb?

thanks for any help you can throw my way.

Michael

I've had great dealings with www.dynotunenitrous.com for many years. Both in products and customer support.

Browse the site. Nitrous has TONS of gadgets and gizmos to make your shot more effective.(RPM activated switches, 1st gear lock outs, timers, window switches....)

I've been running just a basic 400$ kit for nearly 6 years. Nothing fancy, just stay outta the juice before 3,000rpms and keepin' it off the rev-limiter(fuel cut). And this is on a FORD!!! That Dodge should be good to go for a while! ;)

[Zachalanche]

Run an air fuel ratio gauge. It will help you tune your nitrous and fuel jets and let you know if you are getting too lean. I always try to run a little rich to be safe.

I have used the extra port on my regulator to run fuel to the nitrous plate with no issue.

[MonzaRacer]

Another few good ideas are make sure of the system requirements, add in a pressure switch to kill power(feed everything main power through a heavy relay) if fuel pressure gets too low.
another thing to remember is to add in a ignition retard setup and pull at least 2degrees for each 50 hp added, I tune with 3 degrees, then read plugs for aluminum specs, especially with cast crank.
Another thing is keep the fuel side richer than the cheat sheets for the plate jets, just so it wont lean out. And I agree with bottle heater and good holders to point the internal siphon tube down.
Also check local laws on bottle carrying rules if street driven. I used to add in a keyed master cut off switch like drag racers use with it labeled for N2O master and ran it out the back of the car and keep the key on stretchy key ring on gear shifter so cops can see its defeated.
also a master arm light, labeled well.
so many things in runnign it so do plenty of research, nad ask many questions. Look up Mike Thermos new company on N2O supplies and advise. I also talk to the guys a Texas Nitrous Technology.
and remember rich on fuel keeps it from melting pistons. You will also need a solid ignition and 2 or 3 steps colder plugs to start.

[DeltaT]

Consider throwing in a few gallons of race gas the first couple times you use it, as (relatively) cheap insurance against detonation. I'd start with the 75 shot and get some experience with the setup. Realize that a 75 shot increases your low-end torque about 125 lb./ft, so make sure the rest of your drivetrain is up for it. The second time I used my 100-shot, I lost my 2-3 shift in the 700R4 and had to beef it up.

Jim