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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      South Austin- Texas
      Posts
      235
      Country Flag: United States

      LS3 rod bearings - please help

      I need to get a set of rod bearings to swap into my engine over the weekend.
      I assume I should swap all sets even though I only hear a bit of noise?

      Happened like this.... oil pressure sender failed and nearly ran the engine dry before I could shut down. Wasn't beating on it. Don't hear rod knock with a stethoscope at idle but from about 2500 up you start to hear it.

      I read that #6 is usually the first to go, but for the effort I'd rather polish the journals as needed and put in all new rod bearings....

      anyone want to share their experience here?

      -From what I can see, a set of Clevite CB663HN are about $90for all 16?
      -Anything better?
      -Anywhere cheaper?
      -Should I look at a different bearing part number?
      -What should I use to polish the journals?

      If anyone is wondering, This is a TIGHT budget for me.... or I'd try to do something more professional hahaha It's my daily driver.

      The LSx engines use the same actual rod bearings as an SBC? wow, I thought it was just the same journal dimensions.

      TIA



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Gilroy, Ca
      Posts
      34
      If it's really an LS3 then it's a newer engine, hence newer car. Should be covered under warranty correct?

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      South Austin- Texas
      Posts
      235
      Country Flag: United States
      Engine is swapped into an RX7..... doh!

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      If you're getting some rod knock at 2500 on up, I'd pull it apart and mic the crank and then the rods and mains to make sure the clearances are right before just sticking a set of bearings back in and hoping that will do it. Starving the crank is never good and a polish may not do the trick if you already have enough clearance to make some noise.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454




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