Toe Adjustment By Feel....

[pitts64]

I my last thread "twitchy during braking" Dave Pozzi and JRouche were kind enough to explain how a rear steer linkage car needs a little more toe in.. https://www.pro-touring.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=70792

I spent the afternoon toeing in my car by feel.. The car was just aligned and the wheel had a kind of loose feel to it though the car went straight.

I noticed the notch on the driver side tie rod was at 1 o'clock, I moved it out to 4 o'clock too add some toe in (rear steer). The car felt great, better than it ever felt. However it felt like I was in the converter a little harder than before while driving. Maybe it was mid afternoon heat or maybe I had too much toe in....

I backed off to 2 o'clock and it felt better but it was loose again but better. I set it at 3 o'clock and it feels great. The steering isn't as tight as 4 o'clock but it seems to coast better at 3.


Do you guys think I could of added too much toe in at 4 o'clock setting?

I measured an old complete tie rod and one full turn of the adjustment coupling, 12o'clock to 12 o'clock, measured a 16th of an inch..

Thank you!

[a67]

I'll state flat out, there is nothing wrong with a hint of toe adjustment by feel. Although one does need to be careful and keep track of the adjustments.

Before I got turntables and laser pointers for toe, I did it all the time. Could only get so close then ever so slightly tweaked it for the best steering/driveability.

After doing any alignment change keep an eye on the tire wear. Any feathering is a sign that the toe is off. I have found that the toe setting is sensitive. Do not need much of an adjustment on the sleeve to change it.

There is another issue to remember. If using stock type adjusting sleeves, the clamps need to be positioned correctly. This is the final clamp position once the toe is adjusted.

It is best to check a factory manual for this. And it is critical. If the clamps are left positioned incorrectly they will contact the frame during suspension travel. Which will bend the tie rods and re-align the front end toe adjustment for you.

Which you don't want.

There are two reasons I like the tubular adjusters. The above is one, the other is that they don't allow water into the threaded area. No muss, no fuss, toe alignments are easier and stay put.

Bob.

[pitts64]

It's amazing how much difference a 1/4 turn of one sleeve makes..

It's important to have the car aligned on a rack before making your own "fine" adjustments..

[pitts64]

I notice my wheel feels tight and heavy at low speeds like 15-20 mph but feels a little looser around 75-80. I may toe it in just a slight touch more.....

[John Wright]

Just a note:
If you know the thread pitch on the tie rod, you can mathematically figure the amount of adjusting per turn or per degree of a turn.

[pitts64]

I switched to rims with a 1/4" less back space.. Would I need to dial in a touch more toe in or less?

[MonzaRacer]

Neither as the alignment is merely the suspension adjustment, regardless of wheel width or offset the alignment is the same IF you have straight rims.
If you use bent rims then you might have issues IF the alignment machine cant have the heads compensated out to the software satisfaction.
This is why all alignment machines have to have the heads compensated before taking alignment readings.