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    Thread: SPC A-arms.

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2009
      Location
      Butte County, CA
      Posts
      122

      SPC A-arms.

      I'm looking at some of their upper control arms. Any one have experience with these?



      I talked to mark @ savitske for about a hour today about suspension. Great guy with TONS of info.

      Trying to put a front suspension together. any suggestion on coilovers/shock combos?

      -Dan


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Marshall , MO
      Posts
      699
      Do a search several people here are using his stuff. If I had the cash I would do stage 2 plus kit with varishock coil overs and SPC lowers. Using what ever sway bar and spring rates Marc suggest.
      Brad Shepard
      69 Malibu
      Marshall, MO

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,319
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      I use them. What is not to love. Get the hex adjusters (the 'light' version I guess). And use anti-seize, someone just posted recently about problems,. but they didn't use anti-seize.

      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Southern California
      Posts
      566
      Country Flag: United States
      I have SC&C suspension on my GTO. See link in my sig to the build thread. Great products and great service from Mark!

      Jon
      Jon U.

      1968 GTO - SC&C Suspension, Forgeline SO3 Wheels
      Build Thread
      1967 911 with a few mods

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Location
      Loganville, GA
      Posts
      931
      Country Flag: United States
      I love the SPC arms on my El Camino. I have the steel ones and they weren't hard to adjust, but the hex ones would be a breeze.
      2018 Cruze LT Hatchback
      2003 Suburban 2500 8.1L
      1975 MGB Roadster
      2003 GSX750F Katana

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Posts
      106
      I plan on ordering them next week.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      They're on mine. Ditto on what everyone else says. ALSO - if you get the "Race" or "Lite" versions, take off the cross bar first and paint it then carefully reassemble. Good stuff!
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Halden, Norway, Europe
      Posts
      213
      Just a note on the SPC lowers, the powder coating finish isn't really that good. The arms have already started rusting, especially in the joints/welds. This is after a year on a car that haven't even seen the road yet. And it's been stored in a dry garage since I bought them. I would probably look elsewere for lowers if I were to do it again, but the uppers seem great (no actual driving yet though).

      What is this anti-seize you guys are talking about? What happens if it's not used and what kind of anti-seize are you using?

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2005
      Location
      Marshall , MO
      Posts
      699
      The metal threads of the plates will gaull (sp) up on the aluminum and will seize. The anti-seize will help prevent it.
      Brad Shepard
      69 Malibu
      Marshall, MO

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      west michigan
      Posts
      514
      Country Flag: United States
      I am very happy with mine. only thing I can complain about is the cross shaft rusted up pretty quickly. I would have them powdercoated if I could go back.

      Performance wise they are awesome.
      Chad Read

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,319
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      Yeah, they are bare metal. I took mine apart and painted them (see #3 above)
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
      Posts
      2,420
      Country Flag: United States
      IMO:

      Pros of these arms:
      -Price
      -Adjustability (no need for shims!)

      Cons:
      -Ball join plate has a metric bolt pattern so you have to drill it out if you want to use a quality Fbody ball joint that has 5/16 bolts. I didn't want to drill on my brand new part so I installed off the shelf autozone BJ's with the 1/4 bolts they came with and they broke recently after just under 3k miles. I've since drilled the plate to fit 5/16 bolts using the SAE pattern.
      -No bump stop for full suspension droop
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      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by Chad-1stGen View Post
      IMO:

      -Ball join plate has a metric bolt pattern so you have to drill it out if you want to use a quality Fbody ball joint that has 5/16 bolts.
      Or you could just use the even far far far better quality Howe ball joints, which simply install.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
      Posts
      1,240
      Country Flag: United States
      I have some SPC upper arms and cross shafts. I have the race cross shafts (metal bushings), I painted them, they need to be. Just be careful and mask it well. Prime and paint. They wont rust.

      As for the ball joint plate and what ball joints you can use its up to YOU. You can use whatever you want. Its basically ala carte. You can pick yer ball joint plate and use it with the arms that you need.

      Download the catalog and get the part numbers. Any of the dealers here will get you great dealer pricing. JR

      http://www.specprod.com/CATALOG_DIR/...09_PerfCat.pdf
      What I write is opinion, none of it is factual. 2010

      Even though I'm conscious it doesn't mean I'm coherent. 2011

      I'm getting better with age. Best thing about old age is I don't know any better. 2012

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
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      Well re: the BJ plate I bought them from Mark at SCandC so I would assume if they make an SAE pattern that fits the std 1st gen Camaro bolt pattern he would of supplied it that way.

      Of course I did just make an "assumption" heh
      Please Subscribe to the AutoXandTrack YouTube Channel

      Autocross and track blog about running autocross and track events with pro touring cars

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      I think maybe the reason Mark ships the arms with those plates is that I'd guess more than 90% of every one he sells gets built with Howe ball joints. Just a guess, but....
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Location
      west michigan
      Posts
      514
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      I got mine from sc&c with the tall ball joints from Howe. The ball joints are quite nice and worth the extra coin.
      Chad Read

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Location
      IL/TN
      Posts
      908
      Country Flag: United States
      there is no such thing as a metric bolt patern on the upper ball joints F-body 1st &2nd, A-body, G-body all use the same patern, the trouble is with the ball joint patern is not to spec (very common), some ball joints have sloted holes to solve the problem, drill out the ball joint holes if need be.
      https://www.protouringf-body.com "doing what they say can't be done"

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Apr 2006
      Location
      Huntington Beach, CA
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      2,420
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      I'm referring to the ball joint plate, not the BJ's on a first gen.

      I was visiting my home town when I had the upper BJ problem so I had my friend who owns a repair shop do the work. He is the one that did the measurements and called SPC or a vendor that resulted in him telling me it's a metric pattern on the SPC plates I got from Mark.

      /shrug
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