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Thread: Suggestions please!
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06-08-2010 #1
Suggestions please!
I believe my motor is toast. Since I bought the car, there's been a little smoke during driving (more with heavy throttle), so I knew I wanted to rebuild it. Now I don't think I have a choice. The other day I went to start it so I could adjust the timing and carb that I recently installed. I had it running a few days before and was just going to tune it. When it started, it sounded rough, was stumbling and there was heavy vibration. I pulled the oil dipstick and found quit a bit of what looked like sand on the dipstick. I thought that maybe it had come from the entry hole of the tube being a little grimey, so I dipped it again and got more sandy oil. 3rd time produced the same results. SO... I have decided a rebuild is in order.
The existing combination is a mild build perfect for cruising and I want to stay that way (at least until I'm ready to drop in a 455 crate motor). My priority is dependablity foremost. Not too concerned about power with this build. My question is, what all machine work do I need to have done to the block? What about the heads?
As far as the block goes, I already know I want new cam, bearings, rings, lifters and freeze plugs in the block. Do I need to replace the crank or can it be machined for re use and still meet my goals? Any other stuff that I should replace? Machine work that should be done?
What all machine work should I have done to the heads? I'm sure new valves, springs, push rods are the safe way to go. Any other suggestions?
If you were taking your old blocj and heads to the machine shop, what all would you have done and what parts would you replace to ensure reliability?
Thanks in advance for your reply!
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06-08-2010 #2Block: Torque plate bore, align bore or at least checked, deck surfaced, cam bearings installed, deburred, stud mains
Heads: milled to clean up surface, valves, guides, positive seals, hardened exhaust seats if an older (regular gas) head, 5 angle valve job, springs/locks/retainers, rocker and head studs
Rotating assembly: rods reconditioned, new ARP bolts, crank turned, pistons deburred/sharp edges removed, balanced.
Optional:
get a 400 block and have your 455 mains turned down to fit the 3" mains, requires special main bearings but the crank ends up being stronger, lighter and less likely to have main bearing trouble.
I may have forgot something cause I was a bit rushed have to go pick the fiancee.Sean
The difference between stupidity and genius.... genius has limits
06-08-2010 #3






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