VariShock shock shimming question

[jocko124]

I just put together my front suspension: SPC UCA, SPC LCA, SPC springs, ATS spindles & Dual Adjustable Varishock shocks. With the suspension in full droop, and the shock stem nut just hand tightened, the bottom of the shock crossbar is approximately 1/2 inch from the top surface of the LCA spring pocket. I was planning on using some washers to gap this distance. However, my other problem is that at this location, the adjustment knobs on the shocks are not accessible via the tool the shocks came with---they are inaccessible both facing toward the center of the car & away(they are blocked bt the spring). In order to get the knobs accessible, I would probably have to shim them approximately 1 inch.

Has anyone ran into this problem? I know part of the answer may be that the front springs will settle and fix some of the problem, but that leaves shimming for the purpose of making the knobs accessible via the tool. Any insight would be appreciated.

[dhutton]

SPC sells coilover spacers for their lower arms which might work for your application too.

[jocko124]

These are shocks not coilovers--having said that I already have spacers under the spring.

[dhutton]

These are shocks not coilovers--having said that I already have spacers under the spring.

I don't see why they would not work for shocks if the mounting is similar. Check page 12 here:

http://www.specprod.com/CATALOG_DIR/...09_PerfCat.pdf

[jocko124]

Don,
I'm already using those spacers. They fit under the spring and have no effect on the shock.

[dhutton]

Don,
I'm already using those spacers. They fit under the spring and have no effect on the shock.

I was referring to the coilover spacer or does it interfere with the coil spacer. Hard to tell from the pictures but can't it go under the coil spacer?

[jocko124]

Going with an aluminum spacer!

[JRouche]

Here is our PM talks..

The shock is hanging down (fully extended) and the lower mount is short by 1/2" from the mounting hole. I'm putting the washers on top of the LCA and under the shock crossbar. My concerns are two-fold: 1) I want the shock adjustment knobs to be accessible and more importantly 2) I don't think it's a good idea for the shock to be fully extended and bearing the force of the spring. I actually think shimming is the correct answer, but stacking 10 washers seems a bit "amateur" for lack of a better word. I just wanted to see what others had done or suggestions for a more elegant solution.

Gotcha now. Ummm, my opinion, isnt worth much LOL The shock is designed to hold the springs pressure. Specially that short of a distance. There wont be much force on the shocks rod. Many cars are like that. At full droop the shock will hold the lower arm up and compress the spring some. Some cars are actually tighter than what you will have. I have had to compress a coil spring a couple inches to remove the force to get a shock out.

I would not use the washers. You will limit the shocks travel by that amount (the washer stack) on rebound. And even if its only a 1/2" that may put the shock out of its intended stroke. I might also be worried about a worst case scenario where you bottom the shock out on compression, way worse.

Just make sure the body of the shock doesnt contact anywhere when in full droop without the washers. If the body of the shock clears I think you will be fine hanging some of the spring load on the shock. And really, if you have any concerns talk to the shock manufacture. Im pretty sure they will tell you its ok to have 1/2" or more spring load on the shock during full droop. Just make sure the body is clearing any parts. JR

[jocko124]

thank you sir

[Mingus]

Hi Lee,
I have the ATS spindles, Kore3 brakes, SPC upper and lower arms, Lee steering box and single adjustable Varishocks. It works awesome but I did have some issues with the shocks. The shocks came with a sheet that showed the overall travel and a range they wanted them to be in at ride height. Mine were out of that area and would have only had about 3/4" of droop before full extension. It wouldn't take a very big pothole to rip the end of the shock off. I didn't want to chance it with a $175 shock so I ended up shimming them until they were in spec and they have been working fine.
Not sure if your double adjustables will clear, but I faced my knobs towards the outside of the car and I can get at them for adjusment.
I would tend to agree with JRouche that if you're only 1/2" short at full droop it shouldn't be a problem. When you jack up the car, it would come to the end of the shock gradually, and if you hit a big enough hole to drop the suspension that far, the shocks would probably be the least of your worries.
I would check to see if you are in the range they suggest at ride height.
Hope this helps,
Mike

[jocko124]

Thanks Mike. I'm holding off until I have it all together to see if the knobs are accessible without shimming the shocks.