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    Results 41 to 58 of 58
    1. #41
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Westminster, MD
      Posts
      579
      Country Flag: United States
      I've seen plenty of LS1 T/A's & Camaro's running 15" Draglites, Pro Stars, etc.

      Ed Cooney
      '96 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon, LT1/4L60, full bolt-ons & Solomon's tune, 18" Ridler wheels, lowered with Belltech springs

      ‘70 Buick Skylark Convertible project w/ GN drivetrain

      '91 Formula, pending track day build



    2. #42
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Quote Originally Posted by ed1le View Post
      I've seen plenty of LS1 T/A's & Camaro's running 15" Draglites, Pro Stars, etc.
      A lot of people on LS1Tech have done it, but you really have to grind the calipers down quite a bit.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    3. #43
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      The S10 rear discs might be a better choice if you want to run 15" wheels. Very similar to the LS1 rears, smaller rotors, with the added bonus of having the e-brake cable bracket built in.

    4. #44
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Dallas TX
      Posts
      1,633
      I have had several street / strip LS1 cars with 15" Welds. You have to grind a bunch on the caliper and bracket to make it work. Bogarts drag wheels will bolt on with no grinding though so there might be some billet wheels that could be made to work.

    5. #45
      Join Date
      Aug 2005
      Location
      Hamilton, NJ
      Posts
      4,318
      Country Flag: United States
      I think billet specialties makes a wheel that fits over those brakes with no grinding.
      Scott from NJ.

      Vent Windows Forever! ...

      Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
      I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors

    6. #46
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      260
      I wonder how strong those Billet Specialties Street Light wheels are. They have thin-ish looking spokes,l I wonder if I got a set of them for a set of autocross if they could distort much. If not they are a nice looking wheel for the money, and are available with custom backspacing.
      '69 Chevelle - LQ4/T56
      '71 GMC SWB Fleetside - LM7/AR5

    7. #47
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      So if I have an 8.5" rear out of a late 70's Nova, all I need are the spacers to mount these? I bought a rear LS1 brake setup a year or two ago and it's been sitting in my garage the entire time, so I don't know if I have the backing plates or not. Are the backing plates necessary?

      Matt
      Matt

      69 Nova - 357, TKO600, Tru Turn, some other stuff, awaiting LS1 swap
      71 Duster - all stock, slant 6, automatic. awaiting HEMI/T56 swap

    8. #48
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
      So if I have an 8.5" rear out of a late 70's Nova, all I need are the spacers to mount these? I bought a rear LS1 brake setup a year or two ago and it's been sitting in my garage the entire time, so I don't know if I have the backing plates or not. Are the backing plates necessary?

      Matt
      Yes, the backing plates are required. They hold the parking brake shoe and mechanism for it. The caliper mount is also built into it.

      Bob

    9. #49
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Vail, Arizona
      Posts
      660
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      Factory LS1 brakes are about as close to a bolt-on swap as there is. A minor amount of fabricating is necessary, but nothing terribly difficult. The real advantage of the LS1 swap in my opinion is the excellent drum-in-rotor hat parking brake. The brakes themselvers are excellent as well.

      Here's a writeup I did on the swap at Team Camaro.

      http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161383

      Great write-up! Thanks!

      One question though. What did you do about the soft brake line? IIRC it doesnt mate with the flared ends on our old cars.

      Thanks

    10. #50
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      That's the easy part! I ordered them in SS braid from Tobin at Kore3. 45 degree SAE inverted flare on one end and the correct banjo fitting on the other end. Reasonable price as well. Just name the length.

    11. #51
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      Ok so I just put these on my car tonight. Quick question, the calipers mount on the front side of the axle, right? I didn't think to check before installing them, but I installed the backing plates with the calipers in front of the axle, and I installed the calipers with the bleeder valves above the brake line.

      Is that the right way?

      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      That's the easy part! I ordered them in SS braid from Tobin at Kore3. 45 degree SAE inverted flare on one end and the correct banjo fitting on the other end. Reasonable price as well. Just name the length.
      Did you cut the hard line to shorten it at all? Or did you just leave it as is?
      Matt

      69 Nova - 357, TKO600, Tru Turn, some other stuff, awaiting LS1 swap
      71 Duster - all stock, slant 6, automatic. awaiting HEMI/T56 swap

    12. #52
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      I can't remember - does a 69 Nova have staggered shocks?

      If your shocks don't interfere with the calipers, you should be fine - just make sure the bleeder nipple is at the top of the caliper.

      Another thing to consider is the direction of the e-brake cable pull. I recall that the LS1 Camaros had both calipers to the front of the axle, and the e-brake cables looped over the axle and pulled from the rear. If it makes more sense in your install to have the cables pull from the front, just switch the LH assembly to the right side and the RH assembly to the left side, then the cables will pull from the front.

      If you are replacing drum brakes, then yes - you need to modify the hard lines on the axle. You will need to mount a bracket on the axle tubes for the hardline/flexline connection. Lots of different ways/places to mount the bracket. I welded mine, but some guys use a bracket that can be attached with a large hose clamp. Here are the best photos I have of my setup.




    13. #53
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      Yeah it's got staggered shocks, but the rear end is an 8.5" 10 bolt out of a later Camaro or Nova (can't remember which) so it's slightly wider than stock. Calipers fit fine, which was pretty sweet, lol.

      You think JB Weld would hold the bracket? Seriously, lol. I don't have a welder so that's the best I can do, haha.
      Matt

      69 Nova - 357, TKO600, Tru Turn, some other stuff, awaiting LS1 swap
      71 Duster - all stock, slant 6, automatic. awaiting HEMI/T56 swap

    14. #54
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Dallas, TX
      Posts
      260
      As much as I love JB weld, I don't think that's a good place for it. The vibrations will probably crack it off fairly quickly.
      '69 Chevelle - LQ4/T56
      '71 GMC SWB Fleetside - LM7/AR5

    15. #55
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
      Yeah it's got staggered shocks, but the rear end is an 8.5" 10 bolt out of a later Camaro or Nova (can't remember which) so it's slightly wider than stock. Calipers fit fine, which was pretty sweet, lol.

      You think JB Weld would hold the bracket? Seriously, lol. I don't have a welder so that's the best I can do, haha.
      just use a 3"-3 1/2" hose clamp Matt.

      just for information sake.

      rear GM part numbers as of 12/2010

      Rear LS1
      12455127 caliper rear LS1 left hand $79.32 2 required for staggered shocks
      12455128 caliper rear LS1 right hand $78.70
      12456459 rear abutment/pad bracket $31.85
      10444626 right hand plate backing/park $81.60 L&R complete with parking brake assembly
      10444625 left hand backing/park plate $82.24 2 required for staggered shocks
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    16. #56
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, WA
      Posts
      183
      The JB weld - as good as it is - would fail just tightening the flex line to the hard line. You can use the hose clamp style bracket, or find a buddy with a 120V mig who can come over and weld it for you. It's a simple job. http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10021-02

    17. #57
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
      Posts
      1,368
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by gort69 View Post
      The JB weld - as good as it is - would fail just tightening the flex line to the hard line. You can use the hose clamp style bracket, or find a buddy with a 120V mig who can come over and weld it for you. It's a simple job. http://www.kore3.com/proddetail.php?prod=10021-02
      Awesome, thanks for the link. I'll just use those, then.
      Matt

      69 Nova - 357, TKO600, Tru Turn, some other stuff, awaiting LS1 swap
      71 Duster - all stock, slant 6, automatic. awaiting HEMI/T56 swap

    18. #58
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Posts
      4
      So when converting a 78 to rear disc using the 4th gen stuff, do I need 2 left or 2 right backing plate/axle brackets? Is there any way to have the e-brake cables pull from the front like OEM on the 78?

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