Need alternator help asap

[James OLC]

HELP - we are in Clairmore, OK are having a charging system nightmare. Thought the alternator had died, replaced it, still only making 11.5 volts. Checked the trigger wire from the ECU and there is no power. We're trying to rewire the alternator - a 95 chev half ton - but to no avail. Any alternator gurus??? Do we need a resistor in the wire? Can we trigger it from elsewhere?



four oh three four six three two zero three nine.

[shmoov69]

Sorry I can't help you but I do have a couple buddies in Broken Arrow. Let me know if you need someone in the AM
Jimmy

[Steve1968LS2]

Think we are figuring it out..

Might be that the resistor they have is toast.. no they just need a way to induce around 470 ohms of resistance.

Either that or a 24hr Radio Shack.

[CarlC]

Check David's texts.

Rear view of alternator. Put the two-pin input plug at 12 o'clock. The LH blade goes to the idiot light. The RH to IGN+. Use a 194 bulb as the load. No bulb/resistanace can lead to alternator failure. If you tried to hook it up without it after having it bench checked it could have been damaged.

I'd dump the ECM trigger and hot wire it for now with jumpers and a sodier'd in-series bulb.

[Steve1968LS2]

Check David's texts.

Rear view of alternator. Put the two-pin input plug at 12 o'clock. The LH blade goes to the idiot light. The RH to IGN+. Use a 194 bulb as the load. No bulb/resistanace can lead to alternator failure. If you tried to hook it up without it after having it bench checked it could have been damaged.

I'd dump the ECM trigger and hot wire it for now with jumpers and a sodier'd in-series bulb.

I didn't get that one with the image..

I agree on the jumper deal.. it would work for now. The factory just relies on an idiot light as a resistor..

Item's for next year's trailer.. a small generator.. and a package of resistors..

[Nessumsar]

It looks like a 194 bulb is ~49ohm. Just did a quick Google.

[James OLC]

1:30 AM - heading out... fingers crossed...

thanks for all the suggestions!

[MonzaRacer]

Ok try this, with a new CSI plug and it having all of the wires, hook the S terminal to the battery post(make sure the battery post on alt is getting full battery voltage, ie the fuse link isn t blown, if it is quick and dirty make 2 10 gauge wires with ring terminals crimped and soldered if possiblefrom alt to battery positive)on alternator, run the F terminal through a 10 amp key on fused circuit and the L terminal is for the idiot light, ie 12 volts hot key in run,through a 10 amp fuse, light bulb then to the L terminal wire.
If it wont run this way your gonna be needing an alternator most likely.
Computer control of an alternator is a mileage/emission issue, its not needed as most GM cars have went to completely regulator control any way as it has a digital regulator anyway and need no computer control.
The reason for the L terminal is for idiot light and most do not need it but SOME wont work (random issue as the regulators will have same part number)with out it, but the F terminal turns on the regulator.
Reason I use the loop back for the S terminal is because it sense battery voltage with this terminal BUT the shunt inside the alternator actually can over heat and not give regulator enough stator current to excite.
Try these solutions, if you have any other issues my number is 812-709-1006, I have my phone with me all the time and Ill give you any help possible, you can also text me at that number and I get pix messages too!
Oh and ignore P terminal its for tach operation from alternator,
See diagram:

[Steve1968LS2]

All better now.. at least it's charging and they drove all night to make it to the track this morning.