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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Be sure to remove the residual pressure check valve from the former drum side of the M/C. It is located behind the brass seat for the line. Can pull the seat, the valve (spring and rubber cup) can then be removed and the seat pressed back in.

      In the '67 Firebird FSM, which may be a little different then a '68 Camaro, the distribution block is just that along with the pressure differential switch for the dash light.

      The piece behind it is the metering valve. With a disc/disc system it needs to be removed.

      If there is a proportioning value, most likely it is located on the frame rail under the drivers seat area. If there it should also be removed.

      Then an adjustable proportioning valve installed in the line to the rear.


      Once the re-plumbing is completed start again with bleeding the M/C. My guess is the lack of pressure is from the M/C not being fully bled.



      Use the tubes back to the reservoir method in a vise. Make sure that the M/C is level and that it is given full strokes. Both pistons need to be bottomed out in the bores. Take your time and when applying and releasing the pressure on the M/C piston, GO SLOW.

      Tap on the M/C casting with the plastic end of a heavy screwdriver. Then bled it some more. This will knock any bubbles clinging to the sides loose.

      Before re-installing the M/C, close all bleeders on the calipers. Make sure that all re-plumbing has been completed. Then connect the lines to the M/C first then bolt it up. This is so that the least amount of fluid is lost.

      Then fill the M/C with fluid and set the cap on top.

      Open a front caliper bleeder and let gravity fill it. Close the bleeder.

      Can tap on the caliper as it is bleed fluid out with the hanlde of a heavy screwdriver. This again will knock any bubbles clinging to the walls loose.

      Now to the other front bleeder and do the same. Check the fliud level in the M/C at regular intervals.

      Back of car, do the same. Open a bleeder and let gravity fill it. Then the other rear caliper.

      At this time you can then further bleed via pressure or by the vacuum method. Although it may not be required as the gravity bled should do the trick.

      Bob.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville NC
      Posts
      400
      Country Flag: United States
      How do you pull the seat from the M/C, and that will be on the M/C where the rear line connects correct. Also the distribution block is located below the M/C , but the proportioning valve I was talking about is located just to the right of that and attached to the M/C with a bracket also called ahold off valve I believ. Are you saying take that off the car? And install a adjustable proprtioning valve? I believe the proportioning or hold off valve I have delays pressure to the front brakes so pressure would go to the rear drums originally, but not 100% sure.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      Can thread a small machine screw, some use a sheet metal screw, into the hole in the brass seat. Then use two flat-blade screw drivers opposite each other under the screw head and pry straight out. Doesn't take much force to pull them out.

      A metering valve is also referred to as a hold off valve. Which is completely different then a proportioning valve.

      A disc/disc system does not need a metering valve. And one should not be in the system. They are only required in a disc/drum system.

      Whether your car has a proportioning valve was dependent upon whether GM thought it required one or not. In the '67 Firebirds it had to do with which particular engine was used or if there was A/C in the vehicle.

      The issue is, whether there is one there or not, the front to rear brake balance may be way off. There is a possibility that it is OK. But this is something that you will need to find out once you drive the vehicle again.

      Bob.




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