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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513

      Underbody problems !!!

      When I started on my car I sand blastered it, zink, primer and black epoxy paint. Now the epoxy is peeling of so I have to blast it again to get it clean. I started grinding but i will not get the result I want and there are some reallly difficult areas to reach without removing suspension, brake lines and sub frame. Anyway I will make a rotiresse blast it again....

      Have anyone used Eastwood chassisblack or is it better to use gloss paint. I heard that POR15 is better suited for "rusted"/ corroded underbodys.

      Cleaning and repairing the damaged areas is no option or using underbody coating to cover the repairs...



      What have you used ?

      Olav


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Denver
      Posts
      325
      Country Flag: United States
      Epoxy sticks like crazy so must be something it is over that is coming off under it. You mentioned zinc primer then epoxy. Did you do that? If so, that's a problem. bummer either way for you.Good luck
      David Beckstrom DVM

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513

      Underbody

      Taken the rear suspension off and sub frame. Made a frame for the body so it will be easy to work with.
      Attached Images Attached Images  

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      Jacksonville Florida
      Posts
      667
      Blast,etch primer and or epoxy primer
      Do what's right,not what's easy
      69 Firebird
      71 Cuda
      98 Supra 6speed white APU
      98 Lexus GS400tt widebody

      Elite Custom Body
      Stefan B.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Pensacola Fl
      Posts
      154
      Country Flag: United States
      Blast, epoxy prime with a good primer, BASF, PPG DP or equal. Epoxy or etch stick very good so either it was not preped right or thier was another material between the the metal and primer.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513
      I will use this epoxy. http://eng.hagmans.com/produktinfo/p...lska/11160.pdf

      And semigloss top coat, the painter I'm gona use for the outside body told me to use " truckpaint". They use it on trucks and it's more durable and don't chips easy


      The problem is between the Zink primer and primer. I think if i had used wash primer/ etch primer over the Zink this would not happend. Anyway its to late now.....

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      All you need to use is SPI black epoxy www.southernpolyurethanes.com
      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513

      Sandblastered

      Name:  DSCF0855 15%.jpg
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Size:  74.0 KBFinally blastered. I work at a ship yard ( www.gmc.no ) and the company next door is building steel constructions for offshore oil industry. They have a good blastring and painting shop that we also use. I asked them to do this job for me. No problem!!!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      ARIZONA
      Posts
      139
      Country Flag: United States
      That is so nice having access to a great sandblasting room with downdraft floor! I hand sanded my floor with the back end hung from an A-frame engine hoist.
      Larry
      67 Camaro, 350 SB, Custom A-Arms & 3-Link
      My Build https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...LOVE-67-Camaro

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513
      Turned out very well. The guy who did it had been sandblasting for many years. But not on cars, mostly offshore constructions, so he was very provd of this job. With no warping of panels or so. He used fine grit and low pressure.

      Yesterday it was primed with Zink



      When I blastered the body my self first time it was in a old workshop and sand/ grit all over the floor. And body on 2 supports so I had to blast everything from the underside. That time it was completly covered with thick undercoat and rust. When you blast the coating it melts and everything becomes a mess. Ohh! I hate it....

      .

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513

      Primer

      Finally in primer and back at the machine shop at my work.Name:  DSCF0902 15%.jpg
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    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Posts
      181
      I used KBS Rust Seal. Had great results. Then I coated over that with Monstiliner Bed Coating. Good luck

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      northern california
      Posts
      388
      ppg dp - the only way to go!
      Scotts Speed and Custom

      norcal1320.com

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      northern california
      Posts
      388
      then take it to linex and do this







      Scotts Speed and Custom

      norcal1320.com

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Norway
      Posts
      513

      Done!!!

      Name:  DSCF1221 15%.jpg
Views: 815
Size:  83.1 KBWell after 2 coats of epoxy acid/ wash primer, body shutz in rear wheel housings and rear panel. 2 coats of 2K 50% gloss "truck paint" . Hopefully it will last longer this time. Time to bring the car home from work. Since I have got a new job i probably have to do it anyway....
      Attached Images Attached Images    

    16. #16
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      central Pa, USA
      Posts
      189
      Country Flag: United States
      I didnt think you were supposed to paint over zinc primer, I thought that was for inside panels being welded together etc where you dont want rust but cant get after assembly.
      Tom

      trailers are for boats and broke stuff.




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