Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 8 of 23 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 18 ... LastLast
    Results 141 to 160 of 443
    1. #141
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      Ok, while installing the mounts I believe the welded nut under the drivers seat snapped
      What snapped?...the bolt wrung off ? or is the caged nut just spinning around?

      Caged nut spinning around is common...the factory traps the nut with sheetmetal and sometimes the weld breaks loose and lets the nut turn.....only seen one way to fix this, and that is to locate it under the seat and cut a hole in the floor pan(measure twice, cut once)...yuk, I know. Fix the nut/bolt(depending on what's wrong) and patch the hole back up.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    2. #142
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Minnesota
      Posts
      615
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      What snapped?...the bolt wrung off ? or is the caged nut just spinning around?

      Caged nut spinning around is common...the factory traps the nut with sheetmetal and sometimes the weld breaks loose and lets the nut turn.....only seen one way to fix this, and that is to locate it under the seat and cut a hole in the floor pan(measure twice, cut once)...yuk, I know. Fix the nut/bolt(depending on what's wrong) and patch the hole back up.
      John, the 1st gens are a little different. There is a seat platform that goes over the caged not. I would start with pulling the drivers seat,sill plates, and carpet on that side. Just push it over to the side. There will be a slot in the seat platform. Try soaking the nut and bolt for the next few days. Then try wedging a screwdriver or chisel between the cage and nut. Worse case is you will have to dremel through the top of the cage and just put a normal nut on top.

    3. #143
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68400BIRD View Post
      John, the 1st gens are a little different. There is a seat platform that goes over the caged not. I would start with pulling the drivers seat,sill plates, and carpet on that side. Just push it over to the side. There will be a slot in the seat platform. Try soaking the nut and bolt for the next few days. Then try wedging a screwdriver or chisel between the cage and nut. Worse case is you will have to dremel through the top of the cage and just put a normal nut on top.
      You lucky dogs(those with 1stgens)...you guys have a slot?

      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454



    4. #144
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      You lucky dogs(those with 1stgens)...you guys have a slot?
      Awesome thanks for the heads up, doesn't seem like too bad of a fix. Yea it seems as though th nut just spins in there. I don't know if they were welded or not, didn't sound like they were, I just assumed.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    5. #145
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Reno, NV.
      Posts
      482
      Country Flag: United States
      When you replaced the mounts, did you do it one side at a time? If not, the subframe might have shifted a little, causing your door to fender alignment issue. If you do a search for subframe alignment, someone on here posted the GM measurements for the subframe to body.
      Joe M
      '67 Firebird

      My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...irth&highlight=

    6. #146
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 67rstbkt View Post
      When you replaced the mounts, did you do it one side at a time? If not, the subframe might have shifted a little, causing your door to fender alignment issue. If you do a search for subframe alignment, someone on here posted the GM measurements for the subframe to body.
      I loosened the two rear ones on passenger side, but left the pass side core support tight, then I replaced the drivers side. Then I tightened the drivers side core support and loosened the pass side and replaced that side. after that was done I tightened all the rest of the mounts, or all but one, lol. Its the bottom of the fender where the gap got smaller, so I'm wondering if the whole front clip moved down a bit when I unbolted the front bumper brackets from the frame to replace the core mounts. maybe if I loosen those bolts back up and have someone lift up on the front bumper a bit it will fix the problem, the gap only closed by a small amount, just enought to scrape a tad bit of paint off the edge of the door.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    7. #147
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      I expect the old rubber mounts had allowed the body to sag and then when you put the solid ones in, it changed the door gaps.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    8. #148
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,949
      Country Flag: United States
      Loosen the core support mounts and then align the fender to the door and then go back and tighten the core support where it wants to be, you may need to not have it so tight if it is still on the rubber mounts and if it is solid now you just need to shim it till you like it.

      You are getting there and when your done you will know how to do it the next time a lot easier and there will be a next time so take notes.
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    9. #149
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Jim Nilsen View Post
      Loosen the core support mounts and then align the fender to the door and then go back and tighten the core support where it wants to be, you may need to not have it so tight if it is still on the rubber mounts and if it is solid now you just need to shim it till you like it.

      You are getting there and when your done you will know how to do it the next time a lot easier and there will be a next time so take notes.
      k thanks, that's what I'll do. The solids are in so I'll probably have to shim. Thanks so much for the help and positive vibes guys!
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    10. #150
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      connecticut
      Posts
      24
      Country Flag: United States
      looking good!! body does sag with old rubber mounts had similiar problem when I rebuilt the rear suspension in my chevelle.

    11. #151
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Do you have subframe connectors to install too?...if so, don't be surprised if they hit the floor....sometimes the body will sag enough that you have to reshape the floor to get the connectors up where they need to be.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    12. #152
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by John Wright View Post
      Do you have subframe connectors to install too?...if so, don't be surprised if they hit the floor....sometimes the body will sag enough that you have to reshape the floor to get the connectors up where they need to be.


      yea, i've got global west connectors to install. I can't weld so I'm having someone do that for me.

      Today I tackled some stuff that I had problems with, had a buddy come over and we fixed the gap issue, easy fix. then I lifted the carpet and saw the cage that the body mount nut sits in, it was all pushed out on the sides, which is why the nut was spinning. Thie main problem was I cross-threaded the nut, so I removed the nut and I'm heading out to get a replacement nut. back on the right track I hope.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    13. #153
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Glad you got it!
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    14. #154
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      I ended up getting a new grade 8 bolt (cause they didn't have a grade 5) and used that as a tap for the old nut and for the install. all body mounts are in, wooooo hooooo, I'm feeling better now, LOL. thanks for all your help guys!!

      how come body mount bolts don't use grade 8? just curious
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    15. #155
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Location
      Minnesota
      Posts
      615
      Glad to hear it's going your way again.

    16. #156
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,949
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 68firebird View Post
      I ended up getting a new grade 8 bolt (cause they didn't have a grade 5) and used that as a tap for the old nut and for the install. all body mounts are in, wooooo hooooo, I'm feeling better now, LOL. thanks for all your help guys!!

      how come body mount bolts don't use grade 8? just curious
      It's good to hear you made it through it all and feel better about it.


      Grade 5 will bend and stretch intead of breaking as quickly under an impact. Grade 8 can hold more pressure but how much do you need for steel that is weaker than the bolt?, not as much as you think. The debate can go on forever which is the best but I prefer to know my bolts are the strongest you can get, but my car is totally welded to be like a monocoque chassis and has no bolts holding a frame to the car.
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    17. #157
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Palm Beach County
      Posts
      195
      Country Flag: United States
      I checked you thread a while back but you only had a couple of pics. Wow, you have made some headway with the frame and all. It looks great! I haven't seen your's come up on the new post or I would have been watching. Keep it up and take it slow.

    18. #158
      Join Date
      May 2006
      Location
      Rhode Island
      Posts
      675
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm keeping it up, but yes its coming slowly right now, which sucks.

      question guys, did the dash pads come from the factory just bolted on or did they also use adhesive? I'm trying to remove my old one, so I removed those cheesy lookin nuts from the bottom, but the damn this still doesn't want to budge, thats why I'm askin, I don't want to ruin anything forcing it off.
      Rene P.

      My 1968 firebird build thread--->https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...rd-on-a-budget

    19. #159
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      Amherst, OH
      Posts
      524
      Country Flag: United States
      VERY cool thread! Glad to see another average Joe trying to get by with what he can afford, in the space he has!

      As amazing as some of these builds are on this site, it kind of gets old and discouraging seeing these guys drop tens of thousands of dollars into their rides, custom fabricating some kind of futuristic this, that, and the other, all in their state of the art, billion square foot facility with every tool known to man!!! LOL

      Once I get my dad's 68 off him (see sig), I'll have pretty much the same platform to start from. Good body, good interior, just needs some suspension and wheel updates! I'm gonna swap out the powerglide for a TKO500 though, I want a manual toy. And the motor needs to be freshened up.

      I need to get as much as I can done asap though, getting married in September, and I think a kid will be in our near future too. I keep reading everyone's "had a kid, car went on the back burner" posts, and I don't want to get sucked into that!
      Josh

      1968 Firebird project thread - https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...41#post1180941

    20. #160
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Cartersville, GA
      Posts
      1,298
      Country Flag: United States
      Nice project! I have always been a big fan of early Firebirds, and seeing one built at home, by the owner, with limited space and a limited budget is even better! Great job so far!!!

      I'm starting on a '69 Firebird convertible for a customer soon. Its an all original ,California car (missing the original engine, so I don't feel too bad cutting it up!). We're using a Procharged LS1/T56 '04 GTO as the donor. Not sure what we're doing suspensionwise yet, but it will be a PT build. Can't wait to tear into it!
      Joe Hinds

    Page 8 of 23 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 18 ... LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com