Project SicMonte

[carguykeith]

I'm doing the 8.5 as follows: Welding the axle tubes, UMI Performance Roto Joint bushings, Moser 30 spline axles, Tru-Trac, Yukon 3.73 ring and pinion, aluminum diff cover, Baer SS4 brakes....not sure about the yoke though.

Thats pretty much how I built mine, except I wanted c-clip eliminators too so went with THIS and different brakes.

I would definitely upgrade the yoke, I think it was only $75 or $100 to go to a steal 1350 yoke instead of the cast 1330 that was on there stock.



Oh one more thing to think about is the lower control arm mounts should be lowered if your ride hight is more than 2" below stock, UMI has nice weld on brackets for it, that's what I'm using. My build thread (link in my signature) is only a couple of pages and has more details if you're interested.

[SicMonte]

Thats pretty much how I built mine, except I wanted c-clip eliminators too so went with THIS and different brakes.

I would definitely upgrade the yoke, I think it was only $75 or $100 to go to a steal 1350 yoke instead of the cast 1330 that was on there stock.

Oh one more thing to think about is the lower control arm mounts should be lowered if your ride hight is more than 2" below stock, UMI has nice weld on brackets for it, that's what I'm using. My build thread (link in my signature) is only a couple of pages and has more details if you're interested.

Ok...mind blown.


Tell me more about this yoke you speak of.......

Tell me and explain to me more about the c clip eliminators.....

Tell me more about why you wanted those brackets? I've heard good and bad about them......

[carguykeith]

Ok...mind blown.


Tell me more about this yoke you speak of.......

Tell me and explain to me more about the c clip eliminators.....

Tell me more about why you wanted those brackets? I've heard good and bad about them......

On the yoke, ok I was wrong on two things; 1. the stock cast unit is a 1310 u-joint not a 1330 so REALLY needs swapped and 2. a steel one is $125 HERE or a cast one is $65 HERE I must have gotten mine on sale or eBay or something...

C-clip eliminators do a couple of things but the only one that really matters since you are looking at rear disks with floating calipers is that it's required on 1/4 tracks if you're faster than 10.99. If you never plan to put at least a 6-point cage in your car you can skip this, since you're limited to 11.49 w/o the cage.

I know way less about 4-link rear suspension calculation than I should but it's generally agreed that the anti-squat goes too low if you don't move the LCA rear mounting locations when you lower the rear. I did everything at once so I can't say for certain it was the relocation brackets but I can say I hooked up MUCH harder afterwards. Someone like Marcus at SC&C could explain the actual specifics. I really do need to get off my ass and learn 4-link calculations... Worst case is you waste $75 and an hour of your time installing the brackets but decide you like the factory location best.

The good news is an 8.5 10-bolt with a decent carrier, 30 splines, welded tubes and a AL girdled cover is good to an easy 800hp so you shouldn't ever need another rear once you're done.

[SicMonte]

On the yoke, ok I was wrong on two things; 1. the stock cast unit is a 1310 u-joint not a 1330 so REALLY needs swapped and 2. a steel one is $125 HERE or a cast one is $65 HERE I must have gotten mine on sale or eBay or something...

C-clip eliminators do a couple of things but the only one that really matters since you are looking at rear disks with floating calipers is that it's required on 1/4 tracks if you're faster than 10.99. If you never plan to put at least a 6-point cage in your car you can skip this, since you're limited to 11.49 w/o the cage.

I know way less about 4-link rear suspension calculation than I should but it's generally agreed that the anti-squat goes too low if you don't move the LCA rear mounting locations when you lower the rear. I did everything at once so I can't say for certain it was the relocation brackets but I can say I hooked up MUCH harder afterwards. Someone like Marcus at SC&C could explain the actual specifics. I really do need to get off my ass and learn 4-link calculations... Worst case is you waste $75 and an hour of your time installing the brackets but decide you like the factory location best.

The good news is an 8.5 10-bolt with a decent carrier, 30 splines, welded tubes and a AL girdled cover is good to an easy 800hp so you shouldn't ever need another rear once you're done.

the yoke you put a link to is a 12 bolt. ??

[carguykeith]

the yoke you put a link to is a 12 bolt. ??

Oops, too many tabs open copied the wrong one for the steel yoke...

Still $120 HERE for a steel one that fits the 8.5 10 bolt.

You have a drive line loop right? All this talk of u-joints reminded me of those youtube videos, if you don't have one get one NOW.

[SicMonte]

Oops, too many tabs open copied the wrong one for the steel yoke...

Still $120 HERE for a steel one that fits the 8.5 10 bolt.

You have a drive line loop right? All this talk of u-joints reminded me of those youtube videos, if you don't have one get one NOW.

oh I've had one of those for years!

is there a difference from the Moser vs Strange vs Inland Empire yokes?

[carguykeith]

oh I've had one of those for years!

is there a difference from the Moser vs Strange vs Inland Empire yokes?

Glad to hear it!

Not as far as I am concerned, just the cast vs steel is all I would worry about. I don't think I've heard of anyone busting any steel 1350 yoke at least at the power levels we are talking about.