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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2007
      Location
      orange county, california
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      609
      Country Flag: United States

      will an alignment fix my dead steering

      i have a 69 camaro with power steering, 3 turn lock to lock. recently the steering has began to produce a dead spot of about 2 inches. the car also leans a little left. if i take it in to get aligned, i have a free lifetime alignment at firestone, will that take care of my dead steering as well?

      "What is each day but a series of conflicts between the easy way and the right way?"

      69 camaro, daytona blue. LS376-495 (Hotcam LS3), TR-6060 6-speed
      Tubular control arms with coilovers


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Aug 2009
      Posts
      352
      If its free lifetime alignment. It can't hurt.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      Belforest, AL
      Posts
      1,092
      Worn steering components are likely (90%+ chance) the reason for your dead spot. An alignment might help a little, but it's doubtful.
      Todd S.

      "I like to race school buses..."

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Greenwood, SC
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      1,611
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by LateNight72 View Post
      Worn steering components are likely (90%+ chance) the reason for your dead spot. An alignment might help a little, but it's doubtful.
      yep... sounds like it's in your steering linkage somewhere or possibly the steering box itself.
      JC Scott


    5. #5
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
      Posts
      3,949
      Country Flag: United States
      One thing is certain, when they go to align it they will find the bad component more than likely. Second you will have to have them be willing to give you a better more aggresive alignment to make it better than stock.

      1 degree negative camber ,1 degree positive caster and 1/16 th toe in will get you a very good starting point for great handling. The one thing about that alignment is you will need to keep your hands on the wheel more on bad roads and the alignment shop will argue with you about doing it.

      Goodluck and I hope you don't have to rebuild the whole front linkage to get it all nice and tight.

      You need parts !!!!
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      LBC
      Posts
      112
      The first thing you need to do is inspect all the steering system components and put a wrench on all your bolts to ensure nothing is loose. Your alignment can give you a slight dead spot steering feel- usually toe out (depending on the ackerman). The other aspects of your alignment (camber, caster) will affect the way the car goes down the road, but if they are in the ball park they will not cause a steering dead spot on center.

      The leaning issue sounds like something different- what suspension setup do you have? What changed to create the leaning?

      Jim Nilsen- I am not familiar with Camaro alignment specs in particular, but it seems that 1 degree negative camber is ok for the road race or auto-x track, but not ideal for street cruising (and tire wear). I would also venture to say camber should be a bit higher, atleast 2 degrees. I run almost 6 degrees in my Nova, and would think the Camaro would benefit with additional caster especially since 69Camarokid runs power steering.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Central CA USA
      Posts
      6,114
      Country Flag: United States
      Set as much positive caster as you can, usually this is around 3 deg positive with stock A arms. If you can get 5 deg positive caster, that's great but you won't be able to achieve that. Run around .25 to .5 deg neg camber for street use. If you drive twisty roads a lot you can run .5 to 1 deg neg but if you drive straight roads a lot, go with .25.

      Adjust the freeplay in your steering box. With wheels pointing straight ahead, box centered in travel, loosen the jamb nut in the aluminum top cover, turn the allen screw down gently until you feel some definite resistance, tighten the jamb nut. If you go too tight, the steering will get sticky and not follow the steering inputs smoothly.
      Last edited by JEFFTATE; 02-26-2010 at 01:46 PM.
      67 Camaro RS that will be faster than anything Mary owns.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
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      LBC
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      112
      Quote Originally Posted by David Pozzi View Post
      Adjust the freeplay in your steering box. With wheels pointing straight ahead, box centered in travel, loosen the jamb nut in the aluminum top cover, turn the allen screw down gently until you feel some definite resistance, tighten the jamb nut. If you go too tight, the steering will get sticky and not follow the steering inputs smoothly.
      I recommend adjusting the steering box at full lock right or left because the gears tend to wear at center. If you adjust at center it can cause binding during turns that results in additional wear.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
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      3,949
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      Quote Originally Posted by NOGO View Post
      The first thing you need to do is inspect all the steering system components and put a wrench on all your bolts to ensure nothing is loose. Your alignment can give you a slight dead spot steering feel- usually toe out (depending on the ackerman). The other aspects of your alignment (camber, caster) will affect the way the car goes down the road, but if they are in the ball park they will not cause a steering dead spot on center.

      The leaning issue sounds like something different- what suspension setup do you have? What changed to create the leaning?

      Jim Nilsen- I am not familiar with Camaro alignment specs in particular, but it seems that 1 degree negative camber is ok for the road race or auto-x track, but not ideal for street cruising (and tire wear). I would also venture to say camber should be a bit higher, atleast 2 degrees. I run almost 6 degrees in my Nova, and would think the Camaro would benefit with additional caster especially since 69Camarokid runs power steering.
      I have ran those specs on the street and I have to say I drove very aggesively. I got those specs form Herb Adams book I had years ago. I like them but they did make the car need both hands on the wheel when on bad roads. The tire wear was very good and flat. I tried more caster but it did wear the tires more. I do have to say again that I drove very aggresive.

      Daves specs will do him more ease of driving and better tire wear and I also had a 67 and not a 69 which has a bit different parts.

      He should go with Daves specs first and if he wants more he can go there.

      The main thing is that he has to get the Firestone guys to do it and that will probably mean talking to the manager. He should probably take a copy of this thread with him to show that others have a clue. It took me some talking to get the shop who put my comp T/A's on that I knew what I wanted and it was right for me. The tires went 25k and wore flat.

      I do know that way back then people couldn't keep up in Corvettes and Porsches in the corners and it really pissed them off to be beat by a $3,000 old car with primer on it.


      The main thing is that he can have a lot of fun and do well and not spend a ton of money on parts. He will have more fun showing up at the events with that money and learn what it takes to use those parts when he gets them.

      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      So. Cal.
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      1,240
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      Quote Originally Posted by David Pozzi View Post
      Set as much positive camber as you can, usually this is around 3 deg positive with stock A arms. If you can get 5 deg positive, that's great but you won't be able to achieve that. Run around .25 to .5 deg neg camber for street use. If you drive twisty roads a lot you can run .5 to 1 deg neg but if you drive straight roads a lot, go with .25.
      Umm? I just want to clarify the camber? You said 3* to 5* of camber? You meant caster right. Just want to make sure the OP gets the correct numbers. If indeed you meant 3-5* of positive camber Ill have an issue with that. JR

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Quote Originally Posted by Jim Nilsen View Post
      I tried more caster but it did wear the tires more.
      For my own curiosity, where was the tire wear? Inside edge?

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
      Location
      LBC
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      112
      Quote Originally Posted by JRouche View Post
      Umm? I just want to clarify the camber? You said 3* to 5* of camber? You meant caster right. Just want to make sure the OP gets the correct numbers. If indeed you meant 3-5* of positive camber Ill have an issue with that. JR
      Im 100% sure he meant caster...

      Quote Originally Posted by monteboy84 View Post
      For my own curiosity, where was the tire wear? Inside edge?
      Tire wear is typically not attributed to an increase in caster. I think he meant camber...???

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
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      676
      Quote Originally Posted by NOGO View Post
      Tire wear is typically not attributed to an increase in caster. I think he meant camber...???
      That's what I'm wondering, because if all else remains unchaged, caster should not affect tire wear. If anything, I would think increased caster would equate to better wear, since the wheels would tend to be more stable in terms of not wandering and fighting one another.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
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      Quote Originally Posted by monteboy84 View Post
      For my own curiosity, where was the tire wear? Inside edge?
      It was on the outside, I was able to go back to 1 degree caster and still got the life out of the tires. I did change it back after only 500 miles or so. The cost of comp T/A's back then was $880 for the set of 4 which was unheard of for street tires at the time. they also came shaved at 11/32.

      Just for your curiosity, I had the first set of them up front with the specs I first posted and the tires wore so fast on the outside I was really upset about it. I had run 2 sets of Radial t/a's whith vurtually flat wear across on each set. I was always very happy with the specs. When I went back to the tire dealer after only 1,500 miles and they were almost gone on the ouside I was confronted with the specs I use as the reason. I explained to them that I had never had the problem with the specs on my radial T/A's and he confirmed that.
      After a bit of checking to make sure the alignment hadn't gone bad with all of the damn pot holes in town that year he called BF Goodrich and explained it to them. the deal was to put 2 new ones on and send the worn ones to them for testing. It took about a week before they called and said that the tire compound as it progressed to the outside of the tire was bad from them and they replaced them for free. The next set went well over 25,000 miles until winter hit again. They wer some of the best tires I have ever had for traction and wear compared to what everyone else was running. They were the closest thing to all out race tires for the street.
      The other cool thing is that when we got them they came wrapped in a tape that had Comp T/A on it and I could use it as a windshield visor logo just by peeling off the backer. I should find the pics because it was so cool.
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
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      Quote Originally Posted by NOGO View Post
      Im 100% sure he meant caster...



      Tire wear is typically not attributed to an increase in caster. I think he meant camber...???
      I know he meant caster !!! And he was also really thinking that the guy really didn't sound like he wanted to go that aggresive of an alignment.

      The alignment specs I use are what Herb Adams proved to be good for ultimate handing with a stock setup. Guldstrand would always go with more caster in his set ups but he always expected everyone to do the his modification to the upper control arms too.
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Apr 2001
      Location
      Rockford Illinois
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      Quote Originally Posted by monteboy84 View Post
      That's what I'm wondering, because if all else remains unchaged, caster should not affect tire wear. If anything, I would think increased caster would equate to better wear, since the wheels would tend to be more stable in terms of not wandering and fighting one another.
      In aggresive driving more caster will add more wear on the outside of the tire with most sla suspensions like the Camaro. It is inherent to wanting to come back to center easier and stay there.
      May The Horsepower Be With You !!!

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Elk River, MN
      Posts
      676
      Quote Originally Posted by Jim Nilsen View Post
      In aggresive driving more caster will add more wear on the outside of the tire with most sla suspensions like the Camaro. It is inherent to wanting to come back to center easier and stay there.
      Gotcha, that makes sense. Thanks Jim.

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
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      Quote Originally Posted by Jim Nilsen View Post
      I know he meant caster !!!
      Yup...he meant Caster. Gives more straight line stability and helps steering return to center.


      I bet the steering box is worn out in the OP's car.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jul 2009
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      LBC
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      112
      Quote Originally Posted by Jim Nilsen View Post
      In aggresive driving more caster will add more wear on the outside of the tire with most sla suspensions like the Camaro. It is inherent to wanting to come back to center easier and stay there.
      I believe the increase in static caster will increase the negative camber gain depending on your turning angle and move the wear toward the inside of the tire. This of course is affected by ride height, roll center, alignment, yadayadayada...

      Not a Camaro expert...

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
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      So. Cal.
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      Quote Originally Posted by NOGO View Post
      I believe the increase in static caster will increase the negative camber gain depending on your turning angle and move the wear toward the inside of the tire. This of course is affected by ride height, roll center, alignment, yadayadayada...

      Not a Camaro expert...
      YUP!! Thats why alot of caster is a plus+plus. You get some increased neg camber gain during turn in. It helps some cars that have a poor camber gain geometry that cant be fixed without some major work. Its kinda like a freebee gain.

      I say kinda cause there are still some issues with extreme caster that some folks dont want. Tire wear? Im not sure. I havent been able to examine the tire wear yet.

      And like anything else, too much of a good thing is just too much. I have seen cars with so much caster that the camber gain is too much. It can pull the tire in too far with a suspension that already has a decent amount of camber gain. Where the tire was riding on the inside edge and out of contact with the road surface. Too much candy can make you sick JR

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