Wiring harness wrap ?

[wmhjr]

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1

Available from lots of places in different sizes. Though it can still be a PITA to put on - especially if you've used lots of wire ties - it's easire than the stuff that is not slitted. It's not cheap but it's pretty good quality.

[TnBlkC230WZ]

Split PET loom. Jegs has started carring it, but I get mine from and online dealer.

[Takid455]

F6. its a slip loom braid. they make it 20 min from me. same as painless powerbraid.

[Jim Nilsen]

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russel...48918/10002/-1

Available from lots of places in different sizes. Though it can still be a PITA to put on - especially if you've used lots of wire ties - it's easire than the stuff that is not slitted. It's not cheap but it's pretty good quality.

I discovered that it is very helpful to take the wire ties off as you progress putting a sleeve like it on to stop the bulges and if you have to replace a wire later because you cut it too short when you put a terminal on you can just join the short wire with the new replacement and pull it in and through easily. If you leave the wire ties on you can't do that and I learned the hard way when wiring my DCC controller up. You can also just put a piece of electrical tape on the outside instead of wire ties if you really feel the need to hold them together and you won't get the bulge. I actually used the wire ties to be able to mock up the harnesses and could feed the wires as I went thru them and in the end cut the ties off when I put the tape on.

You really have to think about add ons later in some harnesses and other you can wire tie or tape and never go back. What those harnesses are going to and from will decide for you. Putting an extra hot and ground is always a good idea too if you are going to progress with new items later.

[wmhjr]

Jim, you make a good point. In some cases I did remove some of the wire ties. In others I didn't want to. Though I used an AAW Highway 15 kit, we heavily modified the kit and used it primarily for materials. I bought an "OEM" type "rear" harnesss (tail lights, brake lights, etc) but the only OEM type connections the entire car has is:

Tail/brake/rear signal/reverse/license lite in the back
Headlights/front signals/horn
Wiper

Everything else is custom. That includes everything. I removed the bulkhead connector and welded the opening shut in the firewall. I cut a hole just above the passenger vent and another in the passenger firewall up high and hidden by the fender. In both spots I put an grommets like http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SIT-GS1003-8/ . Ignition and Coil are under the dash.

What this means is that I can relatively easily route another wire, but there is about zero possibility of needing to. I'll go out on a limb and say that the chances of adding something that needs power is very close to zero. Matter of fact, I'm trying that approach with everything. I'm building this car exactly like I want with no reservations right now. But, because I'm really trying hard to hide ALL the wiring I can, I need to keep stuff tight - plus the less movement you have between wires, the less they will chaff, and the lower likelihood of problems later. At least that's the theory.

Does anyone have any experience with one of those tools that help feed wires into this sleeving stuff like I'm using?

[TnBlkC230WZ]

With the better loom, you really don't need the wire ties. I'll use one or two were the wires branch out, but that is all.

[wmhjr]

With the better loom, you really don't need the wire ties. I'll use one or two were the wires branch out, but that is all.

Huh? Can you describe what you mean?

[Payton King]

could possibly want at www.wirecare.com